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Anybody Make 100% Made In USA Square Body Sheet Metal?

B

Bohemian

Guest
I did not think it would be so hard to find 100% Made In USA from 100% USA Materials & Resources, by American's ... Sheetmetal, Fenders, Doors, Tailgates, Patch Panels, etc., for K5 Blazers and other Square Body's.

Seem's like everybody's selling the same foreign made recycled hyundai foreign made crapola from China or Tawain Republic of China or otherwise un-American, and saying screw the American Manufacturing Worker...

IF anybody knows of some real american steel after market sheet metal for k5's and other square bodies, post it up.

thanks in advance.
 
All is made in China, as far as I've ever found. Different stickers, but clearly off the same dies, and probably the same plant.

I don't have sources to back it up, but back in the day I heard the stamping dies were sold by GM to the Chinese. I dunno how much water that holds though, because if they were using old GM dies you'd think the parts would fit better...right?

Best source for OE panels are OE parts trucks and finding stashes of NOS parts. Neither cheap, nor easy...
 
I haven't looked to see what is offered for '73 and newer trucks, but my son just got some patch panels from Tabco that say "Made in USA " on them to use on his '72 K10. So far they seem better in a few ways than the Chinese parts that were purchased earlier. The lower door skins actually have a curve to them which matches what the factory stuff does. And they are the same gauge as the original steel.
I think that they are worth the extra little bit of money that he paid. It wasn't much.
 
All is made in China, as far as I've ever found. Different stickers, but clearly off the same dies, and probably the same plant.

I don't have sources to back it up, but back in the day I heard the stamping dies were sold by GM to the Chinese. I dunno how much water that holds though, because if they were using old GM dies you'd think the parts would fit better...right?

Best source for OE panels are OE parts trucks and finding stashes of NOS parts. Neither cheap, nor easy...
The difference is the gauge of the sheet metal they start with.
Plus the quality of said sheet metal to begin with
 
I haven't looked to see what is offered for '73 and newer trucks, but my son just got some patch panels from Tabco that say "Made in USA " on them to use on his '72 K10. So far they seem better in a few ways than the Chinese parts that were purchased earlier. The lower door skins actually have a curve to them which matches what the factory stuff does. And they are the same gauge as the original steel.
I think that they are worth the extra little bit of money that he paid. It wasn't much.

Sounds good

https://tabcoparts.com/about-us

https://tabcoparts.com/pickup-trucks/chevrolet-gmc/pickup-blazer-jimmy-suburban-1973-1987.html
 
it's generally all the same Taiwan stampings, other than the odd patch panel here and there.. batches do vary some based on metals used that run, etc...
 
Looks like they do a decent number of patch panels. The fact that their website states US made confirms what was on the parts that we got. I personally will got to them next time that I need a piece. No more of the China stuff if at all possible. Repairing the factory parts is still a better end product from what I see. A buddy bought some LMC fenders, and they are thin, he got some creases in them already.
 
"Auto Metal Direct"...not sure if they make their own panels or not,but they have more options and have oem gauge panels available..

Another place is Autobody Specialties in CT...same deal,I don't know if they make anything or just re-sell,but their products I've seen at swap meets are better quality than most of the overseas panels..

Scott panels in Ohio used to make their own panels but I think they went out of business,Mill Supply or Tabco may have bought them out ,I remember hearing that ..
 
The stuff I ordered from Tabco has MADE IN USA on it.

Some pieces are of slightly higher Gauge, others are identical to the Taiwan stuff.
 
I got the Tabco front floor supports for the K5 which were made in the USA. They were junk. I also got the made oversees floor support. The forming was much sharper and straight on the part made oversees. Both are not as good as original. The Tabco part does not sit flush to the frame. The part is twisted. The oversees part sits flush on the frame. Why can't Tabco not bend a part straight in the USA.
 
If you are okay with using fiberglass panels/body parts there are a few options available.
 
Huh,I was just kidding,never thought any company actually made them,other than ones used for monster truck builds,etc..
Having to pick up the cab in person kind of stinks,but it gives an idea of how fragile they might be as far as shipping them and arriving intact..

Actually the price of the cab is about what most "survivor" square bodies up here are selling for in "not show quality but nice daily driver,cruise night fun truck" type of deal..that have already had body cancer surgery ,though minor..

Now if they only had stainless steel frames available..:thinking:...
 
Definitely more expensive than the fiberglass body we bought for dad's bronco but I'll be honest, after working with the fiberglass body for that truck, I'm probably going to end up going with it on this one as well. It's messy but so easy to work with. And being it's a completely blank template, I don't have to cut any more holes than I want nor patch any holes I don't want. You can really build it the way you want it to be. Definitely make sure you measure twice and cut once though. Can't weld it back up like you can with steel. Also not great for a rock truck either unless you know how to patch fiberglass.
 
I'm dealing with the effects of offroading with cheesy chinese fenders. Captured nuts broken out and missing. Splits in the inner structure and itches worse than a crickets wing on even smooth pavement.

Only solution for me was original GM sheet metal. Found a couple of very nice examples with no rot at a boneyard north of Denver. They are better quality by far than the newer crap we took off.

It don't help anybody wanting new stuff but it's an option to look at. That is provided you are harvesting sheet metal from a non-rustbelt location.
 
Scott panels in Ohio used to make their own panels but I think they went out of business,Mill Supply or Tabco may have bought them out ,I remember hearing that ..

It is Schott Metal Products and I bought a panel from them is was easily as thick as OEM. They didn't have who quarters for 74 Blazer though, it is just a rear well patch panel. I still have it in the garage somewhere. I hope they are still around but it looks like the EPA jumped their @$$ and I don't know where they stand.

https://www.epa.gov/enforcement/cas...g-and-testing-schott-metal-facility#violation
 
Definitely more expensive than the fiberglass body we bought for dad's bronco but I'll be honest, after working with the fiberglass body for that truck, I'm probably going to end up going with it on this one as well. It's messy but so easy to work with. And being it's a completely blank template, I don't have to cut any more holes than I want nor patch any holes I don't want. You can really build it the way you want it to be. Definitely make sure you measure twice and cut once though. Can't weld it back up like you can with steel. Also not great for a rock truck either unless you know how to patch fiberglass.
Just one thought that someone already pointed out after he did use the fiberglass tub for his 73 k5, you don't have a steel tub for ground so you need to lead all your ground wires to the frame.
We take for granted stuff like that until we don't have it.
 
fyi so after the tabco reccomendation i bought a drivers side lower, rear, quarter panel, patch panel. Way more then I need.

It came labeled made in usa and the sheet metal is the same 18 gauge thickness as the factory and it's a perfect match for the factory bends, including the wheelwell arch/radius.

As a side note my 82 k5 is a nevada truck with zero rust, but after scotch briting a bubble in the paint near the lower bottom part of the ds rear wheelwell where the inner support sits and apparantly traps mud and moisture you can't easy get out, i found some quarter sized rust throughs, and the original bubble was like 1/4"...
Don't ignore them bubbles!

So i guess after 38 years that's not so bad and i'm glad i caught it before it got worse.
 
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