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anyone clocked a tc on a stock susp rig?

G

Gaffed

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I've found tons of people who have clocked there transfer case and are pimping 4"+ of lift. Has anyone clocked a transfer case flat on a stock suspension truck? I'm planning on doing a zero rate in the rear and a 1" body lift. Then clock the tc flat and for a belly pan. I'm not going to get to start working on this until mid-february due to work. Its on my 241c.

Could I possibly get away with using the stock front driveshaft with clearancing only? If length is an issue how about just adding a small spacer?


Thanks,

Chris
 
I am not sure that anyone can say if you will need a new driveshaft or not. I would put it in the budget whether you need it or not.
 
blazinzuk is right...it depends on alot of things....i have 8in BDS springs and a zero rate,plus i moved my front axle 1inch forward, and believe it or not...my STOCK shaft will work, i did however swap in a D60. that helped some. my TC is NOT clocked at all. the stock one barely worked..but it did. i would count on it, and if you don't have too, it's a bonus.
 
I wouldn't say a sleeper but just doing things one by one. I've got to get the exhaust redone b/c of leaks, so I'll route it for the clocking. Then I'm going to get DIY motor mounts. Very shortly after the motor mounts I'll have a custom trans x-member built and do the clocking. B/c the truck is my daily driver I'll the rear shaft will just slip right back in. Then If needed I'll see about doing a custom front shaft although I don't see this affecting anything more than a 4-6" lift. Then once I've got the front shaft figured out I'll do the belly pan.

I'd like to use the belly pan as a starting point to build some driveshaft safety hoops. I seen that discussion brought up in another thread. Then I thought linking them to the belly pan might be cool.
 
You will have to cut a hole in the floor and build a box for the t-case, and cut the seat and remount it as well. I had to cut a hole in the floor with a four inch lift.
When you clock the tcase, you will have to raise the drivetrain about 3 inches to clear the frame rails for a pan.
The drive line is hard to say. Like said already, I would just count on buying a new one.

I would also think about doing a SYE while the case is already on the bench......Its well worth it.
 
Yes on a k5. The sye is on the list but not going to happen when i do the clocking. I'm not really up for raising the drivetrain any significant amount or doing much massaging to the floor. I can have the belly pan drop down the needed amount and go from there.
 
If your going to do a 1" BL do it first, then clock the tcase. This will help reduce the amount of massaging you will need to do to get it all to fit if you clock it 2 positions. I clocked mine 2 positions but I had to beat the hell out of the floorboards with no BL. My bellypan isn't flat frame rail to frame rail. My new crossmember was built 1.5" below the frame rails but with my sliders in the stock location I don't even hit the bellypan much. I tend to hit the sliders or the some portion of the frame/springhangers first.

As for a driveshaft with no lift you will be borderline on needed a front shaft probably. A 1" spacer might do the trick, or You might have to have it extended a few inches at the max. If that is the case retubing is cheaper then buying a whole new dshaft.

Harley
 
I really don't think you'll have to mess with front shaft. When you clock the t-case flat how much does the front output move up 2-4" maybe? not many guys with 2-4" lifts had to get a new front shaft.

You will need to do something about the body and exhaust but that's been addressed. Make a good strong crossmember ;)
 
You can probably get away with your stock shaft. I had a stock shaft with my tcase 1/2-clocked and 2.5" of lift. I just had to clearance grind the CV.

Definitely do the 1" body lift first. It will make it so much easier. I wish I had one on my truck and my tcase is only 1/2-clocked.

According to all the measuring I've done, I don't see why you can't acheive a flat belly without raising the drivetrain. Ditch the current crossmember. Use some 1.5"x2.5" rectangle tube with 3/16" wall for a new crossmember mounted on top of the bottom framerail lip. Then use the older style C shaped tranny mounts.
 
38377k5 said:
I really don't think you'll have to mess with front shaft. When you clock the t-case flat how much does the front output move up 2-4" maybe? not many guys with 2-4" lifts had to get a new front shaft.

You will need to do something about the body and exhaust but that's been addressed. Make a good strong crossmember ;)
Click to expand...

With a 4" lift and my tcase clocked 2 positions my stock front driveshaft wouldn't even touch the pinion yoke fully extended. I had to add about 2-3" of length to the driveshaft if I remember right to get it to hookup and work. I also had to grind the piss out of the CV for angularity.

Harley
 
mrk5 said:
.

According to all the measuring I've done, I don't see why you can't acheive a flat belly without raising the drivetrain. Ditch the current crossmember. Use some 1.5"x2.5" rectangle tube with 3/16" wall for a new crossmember mounted on top of the bottom framerail lip. Then use the older style C shaped tranny mounts.
Click to expand...
When I clocked my 241 all the way up, the t-case still hung below the frame about 2-3 inches. That is why I had to raise the drivetrain.

100_0912 700X527.jpg
 
Chaddy said:
When I clocked my 241 all the way up, the t-case still hung below the frame about 2-3 inches. That is why I had to raise the drivetrain.
Click to expand...

Mine didn't hang down quite as far as yours sounds like it did but just to be safe I left about a 1" gap between the bottom of the tcase at its lowest point and the skidplate/xmember combo I built for mine.

here is pics from my clocking & xmember build. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214657&highlight=208


Harley
 
Chaddy said:
When I clocked my 241 all the way up, the t-case still hung below the frame about 2-3 inches. That is why I had to raise the drivetrain.
Click to expand...
Ahhh, interesting. I didn't realize the case itself would hang down too far, I was always just worried about the mounts/adapter & crossmember. Well, I'm glad I hadn't started on the project yet, I would have been bummed when it didn't work like I thought it would.

So I wonder how much gain is there over just doing the half clock position?
 
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