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Anyone ever see a Truck converted into a K5?

stumpjump

stumpjump

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So here's the thought:

I have an 85 Chevy shortbox, single cab.

I have tons of work into my frame between shortening it from a long-box, bracing, cross-members, steering box, custom spring hangers rock sliders ect, so I really don't want to go to another frame.

The body on the truck is rust free and the bed is in pretty good shape and have been bobbed. Finding anything here that doesn't need major rust repair would be difficult.

I want to be able to wheel with my wife and daughter and I also have a son on the way so I'm trying to come up with a solution to my 2 seater truck problem. The idea i'm kicking around is to cut a portion of the back of the cab out and weld the box sides to the side of the cab and mount the box on poly bushings then have a soft top made.

I basically was thinking about cutting the cab like this (see below) and bending the cage to match these lines and welding it solid. This would create a pass through for passengers to get into the bed of the truck and still keep the B hoop pretty solid I think.

CabIdea.jpg


Thoughts, comments, concerns, gripes?
 
You could do it but I wouldnt weld the bed to the cab.

I've basically seen this done on a 4runner. They cut the entire back of the body off and left the open cab. They then built a roll bar to support the cab and then a flatbed with sides.

I think youd be alot better off sealing the bed and cap to the cab with one of those seals that caps come with.
 
Buy my black Blazer and throw that body on your frame. Yes, it has some rust that needs to be repaired, but I think you could have it done in a few days. PM me if you want more details...
 
I don't think you should hack up a rust free truck cab. If you want to do that, then get a blazer body and put it on your frame. It can't be more work than cutting up a cab and bed and making a blazer out of it, and then you can sell your cab too if it's rust free.

Another option is just to install a roll bar in the back that you can put a top over, and bolt a bench seat in the bed. Then just make sure you have a sliding window and you have seating for 4-5.
 
I like the crewcab idea. Either that or a whole Blazer tub. Seems like you're reinventing the wheel.
 
howdiy said:
Does it need to be sealed?
pritchettcanyonrockpile.jpg
Click to expand...

This is what I am going for, eventually. If you look at my build very similar to yours. I started with a k20 longbed as well.

Also blazinzuk did it search for horton
 
People used to do it alot back in the 80's, of course i think they were mainly 2wd lowered trucks then though, called them walk-throughs.. and i think those trucks went to the scrap yard pretty quickly after done, most likely from falling apart.. :tongue1:
 
and how do you keep the bed from flexing differently then the cab if it's not completely welded solid?

get a Blazer tub and go that route.....you can probably get a nice amount of money for a rust free cab that would almost pay for a complete Blazer!
 
JPOutfitters said:
and how do you keep the bed from flexing differently then the cab if it's not completely welded solid?

get a Blazer tub and go that route.....you can probably get a nice amount of money for a rust free cab that would almost pay for a complete Blazer!
Click to expand...
I don't know where you could sell a rust free cab for more than scrap value, I actually scrapped a few here because I got more than people wanted to pay, not even $50 would they pay for a rust free cab.:dunno:
As for the flexing, if he welds them together and as he said build a cage that goes thru both and uses it to help against frame flex, he's golden.
I am doing similar stuf using a blazer back half to add to the crew cab, and my plans are similar except I want to haul 9-12 people with skiing equipement.:whistle:
 
How about if he boxed the frame to help with the flex. That in addition to the roll cage should be enough to weld the bed to the cab.
 
imiceman44 said:
I don't know where you could sell a rust free cab for more than scrap value, I actually scrapped a few here because I got more than people wanted to pay, not even $50 would they pay for a rust free cab.:dunno:
As for the flexing, if he welds them together and as he said build a cage that goes thru both and uses it to help against frame flex, he's golden.
I am doing similar stuf using a blazer back half to add to the crew cab, and my plans are similar except I want to haul 9-12 people with skiing equipement.:whistle:
Click to expand...

That's odd because I just sold a rust free cab from a 82 C20 for $500! and I gave him the frame too so I wouldn't have to figure out how to haul it off. Guess it depends on what part of the country you live in.......

If you're going through all the trouble to weld it and build a cage, you might as well just do the Blazer tub.......why do people try to make things so difficult?:doah:
 
imiceman44 said:
Sub = 3 row seating.
Crewcab + blazer = 4 row seating. :whistle:
And I do have a sub.
Click to expand...


Crewcab=2 rows
how is the back half of a Blazer going to =2 more rows? unless you're planning on running another row behind the blazer rear seat and then I'm wondering what the difference in length a blazer rear half is compared to a suburban rear half behind the rear doors?

It would seem to me that either way you're getting into extended body and extended frame here.........why not just extend a Suburban unless you're looking at the ability to have an open rear by removing the blazer top.........
 
JPOutfitters said:
Crewcab=2 rows
how is the back half of a Blazer going to =2 more rows? unless you're planning on running another row behind the blazer rear seat and then I'm wondering what the difference in length a blazer rear half is compared to a suburban rear half behind the rear doors?

It would seem to me that either way you're getting into extended body and extended frame here.........why not just extend a Suburban unless you're looking at the ability to have an open rear by removing the blazer top.........
Click to expand...
:thumb:
The idea is twofold, it's open top rear when I want it, and possibly later adding the chalet shell that I have sitting waiting to be built.
The frame will not be stretched but the rear springs will be flipped to give an extra 4".
The space could be served from the original rear crew cab door or I could also add a third door from the extra crew cab body that I have that has some rust in the rear part of the top.
It's a major project but no one has done it and I would like to be able to be the first.
Probably now someone else that has more time on their hands will get the idea and do it, but I still want to take my time and get this done.
:woot:
 
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