Curious if anyone regrets doing disc brakes on there 14 bolt? Talking disc with no E-Brake. I have maybe used Ebrake on my truck once in almost 2 years. Has there been a time where you need the E-Brake and where like #u*k?
CK5
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anyone regret disc brakes on 14 bolt?
- Thread starter brans87
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Would have liked the E-brake during winching, or getting out of the truck while on a steep hill. I also don't like the way my brakes feel after the swap, regardless of caliper.
I have one last thing to try, otherwise I'm throwing in the towel. I was told that merely bleeding the master while connected to the booster was not good enough. Something about the pushrod on the booster not pushing the piston in far enough. Bleed on a bench and actually pushing the piston manually, bottoming it out, was the only way to get ALL the air out. My rear pistons retract a lot, causing a squishy pedal and no rear stopping power. But that's my fault right?
If I could go back, I'd keep the drums. For all the PITA I've dealt with....
I have one last thing to try, otherwise I'm throwing in the towel. I was told that merely bleeding the master while connected to the booster was not good enough. Something about the pushrod on the booster not pushing the piston in far enough. Bleed on a bench and actually pushing the piston manually, bottoming it out, was the only way to get ALL the air out. My rear pistons retract a lot, causing a squishy pedal and no rear stopping power. But that's my fault right?
If I could go back, I'd keep the drums. For all the PITA I've dealt with....
I have no regrets
If you can find a newer 14 bolt with disc's already seems to be better way to go if you are at all concerned with a parking brake.
If you can find a newer 14 bolt with disc's already seems to be better way to go if you are at all concerned with a parking brake.
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No regrets here. Use a master from a big truck and put a residual pressure valve in the rear brake line, I also recommend an adjustable proportioning valve.
There are some threads on here about it from the past.
There are some threads on here about it from the past.
On one truck I too went back to drums. Yes, they're heavy and a pain to adjust, but they work, and the larger sizes work well.
One my other truck I went disc, and have spent a lot of time farting about with various parking brake solutions (ended up with a driveshaft brake on the t-case), all kinds of masters (still in flux) and prop valves (ended up just using a disc/disc combo valve up front) and calipers (the Caddy calipers are a pain to maintain.)
I think a lot of guys do it because it sounds cool or they think they need it ... but properly maintained, the factory disc/drum setup really can be quite good.
-- A
One my other truck I went disc, and have spent a lot of time farting about with various parking brake solutions (ended up with a driveshaft brake on the t-case), all kinds of masters (still in flux) and prop valves (ended up just using a disc/disc combo valve up front) and calipers (the Caddy calipers are a pain to maintain.)
I think a lot of guys do it because it sounds cool or they think they need it ... but properly maintained, the factory disc/drum setup really can be quite good.
-- A
hidesertwheelin
1/2 ton status
I went with disk w/ caddy calipers. I'm thinking of going back to drums.
I am discs in the rear. No regrets. Cleans out cheaper to replace. Lighter. It's an auto so a parking brake isn't a huge deal to me.
Also I changed nothing still have the half ton master and booster no change to anything. It's stops decent.
On a street driven truck I don't think I would do it unless it's to go to a newer style axle with factory discs. But your still gonna be experimenting a bit with masters bore sizes and boosters
Also I changed nothing still have the half ton master and booster no change to anything. It's stops decent.
On a street driven truck I don't think I would do it unless it's to go to a newer style axle with factory discs. But your still gonna be experimenting a bit with masters bore sizes and boosters
IMO, if your going disc, you have to go driveline e-brake...
the caddy calipers are WAY too finicky as far as e-brakes go from what I've seen/heard.... unless you go with a modern disc axle..
as far as braking performance, there's no question disc can be made to work better than drums... it's just a matter of the right parts combo...
why are there no drums anymore?
IMO, proportioning valves should always be ditched when going to rear disc, and just run an adjustable in the rear line..
the caddy calipers are WAY too finicky as far as e-brakes go from what I've seen/heard.... unless you go with a modern disc axle..
as far as braking performance, there's no question disc can be made to work better than drums... it's just a matter of the right parts combo...
why are there no drums anymore?
IMO, proportioning valves should always be ditched when going to rear disc, and just run an adjustable in the rear line..
because 3/4 ton backing plates are damn hard to find with the push in cables for E-Brake.
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
Anyone know anything of this?:
Affordable 14-Bolt Disc Brake Conversion
If you own an older-style GM Corporate 14-bolt rear axle, you probably have drum brakes—which are less desirable for trail use. However, thanks to the innovators at Right Gear and Axle, any old-school 14-bolt rearend can be easily upgraded to disc brakes using late-model OEM 14-bolt parts found on the rearend of 2002-and-later Chevy trucks. Comprised of two billet steel adapter flanges and mounting hardware, this product offers an affordable and effective way to improve brake performance while also adding a functional e-brake. It’s manufactured right here in the U.S., and as the photo illustrates, the adapter flanges simply bolt to your existing end flanges with no cutting, welding or custom fabrication required. Info: Right Gear and Axle, 831/424-3715, www.rightgear.com
This kit on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Bolt-Dis...-2500HD-3500HD-Brakes-w-e-brake-/310679487802
Affordable 14-Bolt Disc Brake Conversion
If you own an older-style GM Corporate 14-bolt rear axle, you probably have drum brakes—which are less desirable for trail use. However, thanks to the innovators at Right Gear and Axle, any old-school 14-bolt rearend can be easily upgraded to disc brakes using late-model OEM 14-bolt parts found on the rearend of 2002-and-later Chevy trucks. Comprised of two billet steel adapter flanges and mounting hardware, this product offers an affordable and effective way to improve brake performance while also adding a functional e-brake. It’s manufactured right here in the U.S., and as the photo illustrates, the adapter flanges simply bolt to your existing end flanges with no cutting, welding or custom fabrication required. Info: Right Gear and Axle, 831/424-3715, www.rightgear.com
This kit on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Bolt-Dis...-2500HD-3500HD-Brakes-w-e-brake-/310679487802
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Run the newer metric GM parking brake calipers. I have them on my street truck and they hold like no ones business.
Like th calipers on the new aam axle?
my 2 cents.
I had 13" x 3.5" drums on my '91. kept having problems with the fronts locking up before the rears on ice, and I had the DIY caliper brackets along with 10 bolt rotors and HD front calipers on the shelf, so I took the plunge. I had the correct 1 5/16" master so I couldn't figure out why my disc/drum set-up wasn't working until I pulled the drums off. both wheel seals were weeping enough to wet the shoes, but not enough to see from the outside.
I put the disc brakes in along with the new two piece seals and things work fine with no other changes. I do have a new master cylinder with one large reservoir instead of the 25/75 reservoir of the old style one ton master, but I haven't put it on yet..
I will probably change the proportioning valve down the road also. the rears get a little warmer than the fronts under hard braking, but the discs work just as well as the huge one ton drums with no real tinkering, so no regrets. I kind of wish I'd done it sooner.
the '91 has an automatic trans, so with "Park" I don't really need a parking brake. I have never used it anyway, but the drum brakes are going under my '72, which has a manual and does need a parking brake. i'll just have to put the good seals on with them so I don't soak another set of shoes
I had 13" x 3.5" drums on my '91. kept having problems with the fronts locking up before the rears on ice, and I had the DIY caliper brackets along with 10 bolt rotors and HD front calipers on the shelf, so I took the plunge. I had the correct 1 5/16" master so I couldn't figure out why my disc/drum set-up wasn't working until I pulled the drums off. both wheel seals were weeping enough to wet the shoes, but not enough to see from the outside.
I put the disc brakes in along with the new two piece seals and things work fine with no other changes. I do have a new master cylinder with one large reservoir instead of the 25/75 reservoir of the old style one ton master, but I haven't put it on yet..
I will probably change the proportioning valve down the road also. the rears get a little warmer than the fronts under hard braking, but the discs work just as well as the huge one ton drums with no real tinkering, so no regrets. I kind of wish I'd done it sooner.
the '91 has an automatic trans, so with "Park" I don't really need a parking brake. I have never used it anyway, but the drum brakes are going under my '72, which has a manual and does need a parking brake. i'll just have to put the good seals on with them so I don't soak another set of shoes
I would never go back to drums. Mabey in Cali where they won't rust, but those things turn to giant pieces of flaky unbalanced as pieces fall off rust in no time here in the rustbelt.
I used a Brazilian S10 Hydro & master circa 2003 and I put an adjustable prop valve in the rear line in addition to the regular safety prop valve. I used caddy calipers. I'm not sure why all the whining on the caddy calipers, I've not had a single issue with them, it isn't the best parking brake, only holds on slight to moderate inclines, then again, I'm not sure it ever held a caddy on a steep hill either. But it does hold on most inclines one would park on and it works fine as an e-brake.
I did paint mine completely with a high quality high heat paint, and I keep the e-brake mechanism lubed and I back up hitting the brakes hard, this seems to work well at keeping them adjusted. Barring that, I think the driveline brakes do a much better job (albeit most are not legal as an e-brake for on-road use by gov't standards, for whatever reason, then again caddy calipers swapped onto a 3/4 ton axle swapped into a K5 might also not be kosher with the feds either!) and the driveline brakes are readily available now.
I also adjusted the adjustable prop valve so the rear locks up at the same time as the fronts on a hard brake on a somewhat loose surface (gravel or ice).
I also have all heavy stainless steel hard and soft lines (braided soft), no pudginess anywhere in the system. Circulating the hydro fluid, I have a heavy duty PS pump from a D-max truck, although I don't think much has changed in those in 20 years, mabey better quality seals. I only used it because the can on it fit perfectly in the serp setup I have, clearing everything and giving good access to the PS fill and had the I/O for the fluid lines in the right places for my setup.
I think my unique hydroboost/master may be the ticket. The older systems found on the K30's and what not just weren't as good, or were too heavy handed. The S10 system used in Brazil is just the right size, I think, and I LOVE the way the pedal feels, very confident braking on and off road, 0 fade, nice consistent pedal.
I used a Brazilian S10 Hydro & master circa 2003 and I put an adjustable prop valve in the rear line in addition to the regular safety prop valve. I used caddy calipers. I'm not sure why all the whining on the caddy calipers, I've not had a single issue with them, it isn't the best parking brake, only holds on slight to moderate inclines, then again, I'm not sure it ever held a caddy on a steep hill either. But it does hold on most inclines one would park on and it works fine as an e-brake.
I did paint mine completely with a high quality high heat paint, and I keep the e-brake mechanism lubed and I back up hitting the brakes hard, this seems to work well at keeping them adjusted. Barring that, I think the driveline brakes do a much better job (albeit most are not legal as an e-brake for on-road use by gov't standards, for whatever reason, then again caddy calipers swapped onto a 3/4 ton axle swapped into a K5 might also not be kosher with the feds either!) and the driveline brakes are readily available now.
I also adjusted the adjustable prop valve so the rear locks up at the same time as the fronts on a hard brake on a somewhat loose surface (gravel or ice).
I also have all heavy stainless steel hard and soft lines (braided soft), no pudginess anywhere in the system. Circulating the hydro fluid, I have a heavy duty PS pump from a D-max truck, although I don't think much has changed in those in 20 years, mabey better quality seals. I only used it because the can on it fit perfectly in the serp setup I have, clearing everything and giving good access to the PS fill and had the I/O for the fluid lines in the right places for my setup.
I think my unique hydroboost/master may be the ticket. The older systems found on the K30's and what not just weren't as good, or were too heavy handed. The S10 system used in Brazil is just the right size, I think, and I LOVE the way the pedal feels, very confident braking on and off road, 0 fade, nice consistent pedal.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
This is the kit I used on the short bed. Would have to call for specific application on the calipers and then you could hunt down a part number from a site like advance.
https://www.quickperformance.com/mobile/Weld-On-Disc-Brake-Kit_p_16007.html
Whatever they are they work, good. They're the latest design that the parking brake was lever. I believe they are much newer than the ELDO calipers but I'm not certain. I thought the ELDO calipers were much larger.
https://www.quickperformance.com/mobile/Weld-On-Disc-Brake-Kit_p_16007.html
Whatever they are they work, good. They're the latest design that the parking brake was lever. I believe they are much newer than the ELDO calipers but I'm not certain. I thought the ELDO calipers were much larger.
PresaCanario
Registered Member
Where I live and where I take my truck I would hate to have drum brakes because any of the ones I've had or seen have been huge piles of rust. I had a vehicle inspection done last year and one thing I needed was an e-brake for my rear brakes to pass. Ended up getting el dorado calipers from 4wdfactory and some lokar cables. I felt I didn't have a comfortable spot to put an e-brake lever so I installed an e-stopp electronic e brake. I hide it in my center console as an added security feature. I had problems with the eldorado calipers not holding very well, but after spending a lot of time on the web I found the only way is to adjust them daily and they'll work fine. I plan on putting the e-stopp on a drive shaft brake to make it work better.
Stomis they don't offer it for 14 bolt so how would I make it work?
Have a set on my 83, truck hydroboost. It will put your face in the dash if you layed hard into it at 60-70mph 
I don't street drive the truck much anyways so I'm not really worried. I always leave my standards in gear anyways fwiw.
I don't street drive the truck much anyways so I'm not really worried. I always leave my standards in gear anyways fwiw.
I will never again put rear disks on a truck without some kind of e-brake if it is a standard. That sucks always trying to find a spot to keep it from rolling or shut it off to open gates etc. That being said, I don't like standards much so I don't own any
I have 3 trucks right now that are rear disk with no e-brake and I have no regrets but they are all auto and I can put it park and get out. The disks are so much easier to work on in my opinion, stop better and the price to swap was nearly the same as replacing everything on the factory drum setups.
I have 3 trucks right now that are rear disk with no e-brake and I have no regrets but they are all auto and I can put it park and get out. The disks are so much easier to work on in my opinion, stop better and the price to swap was nearly the same as replacing everything on the factory drum setups.
