Stuck at work. Limited internet. Truck cranks. No start. Has spark, no fuel. Fuel pump relay "clicks". Can't access diagrams. Can anyone tell me what color wire feeds the fuel pump?
Thanks!
Thanks!
CK5
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Anyone still awake 91 K5 just died on me.
- Thread starter TommyD11730
- Start date
rampage
3/4 ton status
At the connector by the tank the grey wire is 12v to the fuel pump. Also make sure the ground is good at the tank. Take a piece of new wire and make a bare metal spot on the tank itself and to the frame.
According to what I can find in a quick search:
Fuel pump test connector to fuel pump = tan and white
12V to fuel pump relay = green / green (two separate + wires)
fuel pump relay to fuel pump = tan and white OR pink and black
oil pressure switch to fuel pump = orange
Fuel pump test connector to fuel pump = tan and white
12V to fuel pump relay = green / green (two separate + wires)
fuel pump relay to fuel pump = tan and white OR pink and black
oil pressure switch to fuel pump = orange
Thanks Boss. Got 12v on lead.
Pump sounded odd when I started her this am. Guess I know why.
Pump sounded odd when I started her this am. Guess I know why.
Any links to a dropping the hitch /shield/ tank floating around.... I'm NOT cutting the floor.
If you are thinking about replacing the pump, I just did it. Did not need to drop hitch....only the skid plate. Then used two come-a-long straps and a floor jack to lower the tank down. Just work it down slowly.
Really?
Lots of conflicting info out there. I see guys pulling the bumper.... filler plate. .. you name it.
You could acess the 6 skid plate bolts without removing anything else?
Lots of conflicting info out there. I see guys pulling the bumper.... filler plate. .. you name it.
You could acess the 6 skid plate bolts without removing anything else?
I don't have the filler plate between the tailgate and the bumper. Pretty sure you can't get to the skid plate or tank strap nuts/bolts without it being removed.
What I do is unbolt the front bolts of the skid. Pull the front end down (bend the rear of it a bit) and then remove the rear skid bolts. It will come relatively straight down. Put together in reverse.
Unless your truck is miraculously rust free, or someone has done this recently, this is not likely going to be an easy job.
You can siphon fuel out of the tank from the filter if you need to, but it will be slow. Easier to deal with the tank if it doesn't have 30 gallons of fuel in it. I have found it is relatively easy to sit under the truck on the passenger side in front of the rear axle, looking backwards, to disconnect the fuel and vent lines. Don't forget the pump wiring/ground.
I use a floor jack under the tank to kind of assist. Still a pain. But undo the straps on the back, then let the tank drop a bit. That will give you some access to the fuel fill hoses. They are normally a bear to get off, but resist cutting them unless you have already sourced a replacement...the large one is fairly uncommon and tends to be stupid expensive.
You may have just split the hose in the tank, but I'd replace the pump while in there even if that is the only issue. Not many choices for "excellent" quality pumps, Delco's probably your best bet, but still no guarantee based on what others have mentioned. I've not had bad luck so far with them.
FWIW, the red wire hanging off the fuel pump relay is where you put 12V from the battery to test the pump. That bypasses the relay.
What I do is unbolt the front bolts of the skid. Pull the front end down (bend the rear of it a bit) and then remove the rear skid bolts. It will come relatively straight down. Put together in reverse.
Unless your truck is miraculously rust free, or someone has done this recently, this is not likely going to be an easy job.
You can siphon fuel out of the tank from the filter if you need to, but it will be slow. Easier to deal with the tank if it doesn't have 30 gallons of fuel in it. I have found it is relatively easy to sit under the truck on the passenger side in front of the rear axle, looking backwards, to disconnect the fuel and vent lines. Don't forget the pump wiring/ground.
I use a floor jack under the tank to kind of assist. Still a pain. But undo the straps on the back, then let the tank drop a bit. That will give you some access to the fuel fill hoses. They are normally a bear to get off, but resist cutting them unless you have already sourced a replacement...the large one is fairly uncommon and tends to be stupid expensive.
You may have just split the hose in the tank, but I'd replace the pump while in there even if that is the only issue. Not many choices for "excellent" quality pumps, Delco's probably your best bet, but still no guarantee based on what others have mentioned. I've not had bad luck so far with them.
FWIW, the red wire hanging off the fuel pump relay is where you put 12V from the battery to test the pump. That bypasses the relay.
Yes, pretty easy. I had issues with pump so ended up dropping tank about 3 times. I'm getting pretty good at it! 
One of my bolts was rusted too bad and broke off. Other than that, good.
I also bought a new Spectra tank, New straps and a complete pump/float assembly. Tried Amazon for tank twice but both showed up beaten up. Went to O'Reilly's and asked them to match, or get as close as they could on same tank. Maybe paid extra $10 or $15, and the tank came perfect.
Used roofing felt paper cut into strips for top of tank install and under tank straps.
One of my bolts was rusted too bad and broke off. Other than that, good.
I also bought a new Spectra tank, New straps and a complete pump/float assembly. Tried Amazon for tank twice but both showed up beaten up. Went to O'Reilly's and asked them to match, or get as close as they could on same tank. Maybe paid extra $10 or $15, and the tank came perfect.
Used roofing felt paper cut into strips for top of tank install and under tank straps.
Hmmm, is the filler plate only held on by the 2 bolts on top? I seem to recall removing them once and still couldn't get the plate out?
It is a California truck, only been back east a couple of years.
Yes, I ordered an AC brand pump and sock.
It is a California truck, only been back east a couple of years.
Yes, I ordered an AC brand pump and sock.
On a Blazer if you lower the tailgate, you have clean access to the two rear tank strap nuts.
Ok, but to get to the rear 3 shield bolts the filler plate has to come out?
I always forget that bit of advice. IIRC the skid plate bolts are nearly along the same line, so this might work.
I believe the filler plate has only those two bolts, but I haven't dealt with it in years.
Well the skid plate removal was a non issue. 3 bolts from the top (tailgate open) 3 bolts from the bottom.
Did not remove hitch (yet, it's only 4 more nuts) looks like I might not have to.
Strap's not double nutted.... is that an indicator the tanks been down before?
Did not remove hitch (yet, it's only 4 more nuts) looks like I might not have to.
Strap's not double nutted.... is that an indicator the tanks been down before?
Maybe. On the other end do they also have threaded nuts or just a hook on the end? Factory had hooks on the end, whereas the aftermarket from Spectra had threaded nuts on both ends.
At the tailgate end, my factory ones were double nutted.
Glad it came off easy. I did mine in March but couldn't remember exactly how I removed. All I remember was that it wasn't difficult and my hitch remained on the truck.
So do people pull the hitch to ease the removal of the shield, or tank?
I do not, I've never felt it was in the way. Most hitches I've seen you can't remove until the tank is out anyway.
Tanks out, with hitch in place. I can't believe the high and low pressure lines unthreaded!
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