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Approve these decisions, please.

THISISWEIRD

THISISWEIRD

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Alright, so whether I need it or not, I've decided to make some changes. My 10 bolt rear end is going out and need to be fixed. My springs are sagging badlly too. I can't see just fixing the 10 bolt eventhough my needs (very little wheeling) don't require anything more. I currently ride on 33's with what appears to be a 2.5" lift.

So this is it....

4 inch Tuff Country lift (no shackle flip as I don't need the additional flex and I alrady need new springs)

Bilstein Shocks

14 bolt rear, 44 dana front with 4.10 gears

15 x 10 Pro Comp Series 87 wheels (4.25 backspacing) and 35x12.5x15 BFG Muds

See any concerns with the setup...wheels, tires, gears? I'd love to hear thoughts...good or bad.

It's all on the 91 Blazer...350, 700r4 (or whatever they called it), 241 tranfer case.
 
With a 700r4 and 35s I would run 4.56 gears. This will give you an overall ratio of like running 31s on 3.73s.
 
>14 bolt rear, 44 dana front with 4.10 gears

As for gears, just keep in mind that the 14bolt would have a 4:10 gear and the Dana44 would have a 4:09 gear.

From my experience running that axle/gear setup, the gearing difference is unnoticeable, provideded your on a low traction surface.
 
midnight said:
as for gears, just keep in mind that the 14bolt would have a 4:10 gear and the Dana44 would have a 4:09 gear.
Click to expand...

Which is just fine, that is close enough to have no worries.
 
To elaborate....

4.10 gears and a 35" tire will put you at 1929 rpms @ 70mph
4.56 gears and a 35" tire will put you at 2146 rpms @ 70mph

That 220 rpms will make a big difference in drive-ability with a 350, 700r4 and 35" tires.
 
Running 35's with a 4" lift you'll end up with tires hitting the fenders unless you are also fender trimming.

I'm running 8" lift and 35's and can still stuff the front tires into the fenders.

Also i'm running 4.56 gearing and wish i had went with 4.88's or 5.13's.

I wouldn't change the 10 bolt front for a 44 unless you find a 44 with the same gearing you decide to run. I would just do an 8 lug conversion instead.
 
PsRumors said:
To elaborate....

4.10 gears and a 35" tire will put you at 1929 rpms @ 70mph
4.56 gears and a 35" tire will put you at 2146 rpms @ 70mph

That 220 rpms will make a big difference in drive-ability with a 350, 700r4 and 35" tires.
Click to expand...

I have 4.10/700r4 & 35". It stinks at medium speeds,(35-50 MPH) livable, but RPMs a little to low for me. I usually stay out of OD. I wish I went with 4.88s. The engine would be alot happier.
 
scooter122983 said:
I too would keep the 10 bolt, the pinion for the 10 is larger than that of the d44
Click to expand...

If I stay with the 10 bolt up front, would I need a new carrier or just new ring and pinion? It's stock 3.08 now.
 
PsRumors said:
You can reuse the carrier but while it is out would be a good time to put in a soft locker.
Click to expand...

I agree.
I have a Eaton posi up front, can be a little hairy on ice and snow. You can probably do a Lockright and 8 lug conversion for less $$$.
 
THISISWEIRD said:
...
15 x 10 Pro Comp Series 87 wheels (4.25 backspacing) ...
Click to expand...

These 15" rims are not going to like the 8-lug front...

If you're getting new 8-lug wheels and tires anyway, I'd look into getting 16" or 17" rims (maybe H2s?). That way you won't have to mess around with grinding brake calipers.
 
PsRumors said:
You can reuse the carrier but while it is out would be a good time to put in a soft locker.
Click to expand...

So it's only the rear gov-loc that would require a new carrier if I wanted to go 4.10, 4.56, or more in a 10 bolt rear end? Or I could go thick gears, right? I could do all of this and stay with the 10 bolts. I just can't see spending the money to be in the same spot later on.

What's a soft locker? I'm a newb. I've been on this site for 3-4 months and never heard of it.

As far as the 15 inch rims in another post, I do have an option for some cheap H2 wheels. Maybe I should go that route.
 
If your not wheeling much do not lock the front end, if you want to keep the current axles and regear then put a full replacement differential in the rear, something like a true-trac and then you don't have to worry about the carrier you have now. I agree with everyone who says run 4.56's if your going to 35's. I don't know about the 15" whell fitment issue, I run HMMWV rims. As for justifying your decisions, I hate 10 bolt rear axles, get rid of it.
 
Ok Here is my take on this.
First my Friend Had a 4" Rough Country all spring lift for , 3 year's running 35's. Neither him or I ever ,I repeat ever saw the tire's rub or heard them rub.

He never cut the fender's till we put some 38.5x16x15 Tsl's I got him on it.
He did minor cutting for them , and they fit perfect.

As far as gear's. He had 4.56's with the 35's and it seemed to put him just over stock. Now he is goin Trough a 60 and think's he is gonna re gear to 4.88 to fit the 38's a bit better.

Also his Truck is a Mild mod'ed 350 /700R4 241.
10 Bolt with 8 Lug outters , and 14 Bolt.

I will tell him to check this thread out today.
 
Note the above was a Rough Country 4" spring lift, as compared to the first post that referred to Tuff country springs. Rough Country by all accounts flex very little - that'll keep a 35" tire out of the fenders...
 
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