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Are my springs bad?

F

furdaddy

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I hope this isn't too dumb a question, but what shape should my leaf springs be? They're probably the original springs and I'm just wondering if they need to be replaced.

On the fronts the spring (two-leaf ) rises from the shackles up to the axle. Shouldn't the axle be the low point on the spring?

The rears have six leaves and they are pretty much flat, but at an angle becuase the front of the spring is mounted a little lower than the rear. Should the rears be bowed downward? Or is that only with lift springs?
 
I alway thought, if ya have to ask, then they need replaced, and why not go to a good quality lift sence your replacing the springs anyways.
 
the stock front spring are suppose to be flat maybe even negative arch.

the rear springs are most likly worn out. i did look to see if you had a blazer or sub or not but this is the reason for the saggy butt. an easy cheap fix would be to put a zero rate in.
 
First, you guys are incredibly fast! Thanks.

Second, my dad the engineer raised me to disdain lifted trucks, so I'll need to be convinced that a lift is a necessity. I can definitely see the benefit of more travel and flex, but I don't think I want or need to do anything radical. I've tried to research the pros and cons of lifts, but I haven't been able to find a good treatment of the subject, and it's hard for a newbie like me to tell the show mods from the go mods. Any help would be much appreciated. Also, any tips on good conservative upgrade options?
 
You have to use a lift to run big tires! That would be the first reason why you need a lift. New springs and shocks wouldn't hurt in this point of your trucks life too! Lift kits help you ford through deep water and mud. And don't forget...lifted trucks are cool man. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Also, if you want to stay away from alot of lift keeping your CG low, go with like a 2.5" or 4" lift. Alot of members do this and run large tires. If you go with a softer spring the ride will also be comparable or better than stock. Of course, you have to like the sawzall and cut alot of sheetmetal /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif. Search for MudHog, he has an awesome setup with minimal lift and large tires. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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it's hard for a newbie like me to tell the show mods from the go mods. Any help would be much appreciated. Also, any tips on good conservative upgrade options?


[/ QUOTE ] What do you plan on doing with your truck ??? Daily driver, rock crawling, mudding, trails ??? If you plan on large tires, there's more then just a lift or fender trimming to consitter. I think axle upgrades should be one of the first things to consitter. The best is a Dana 60 / 14 Bolt FF set up, but that Dana 60 isn't cheap, and depending on what tire size you choose, you may or may not need one.
 
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it's hard for a newbie like me to tell the show mods from the go mods. Any help would be much appreciated. Also, any tips on good conservative upgrade options?


[/ QUOTE ] What do you plan on doing with your truck ??? Daily driver, rock crawling, mudding, trails ??? If you plan on large tires, there's more then just a lift or fender trimming to consitter. I think axle upgrades should be one of the first things to consitter. The best is a Dana 60 / 14 Bolt FF set up, but that Dana 60 isn't cheap, and depending on what tire size you choose, you may or may not need one.

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Here in Arizona, there's not much fording or mud to worry about. The truck will be used mostly for trails and some rock crawling.

I gather that the Dana 60 is stronger than stock? Does it have other virtues over stock? Any reason not to wait for breakage to upgrade? Also, I know what a Dana 60 is but could you spell out what the "14 bolt FF" part means?

BTW, is there a glossary of abreviations around here somewhere?
 
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Here in Arizona, there's not much fording or mud to worry about. The truck will be used mostly for trails and some rock crawling.

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as far as activities that will cause axle breakage and require bigger-than-stock tires / lift rock crawling is #1. I can see why your engineer father would be anti-lift... but if he can figure out a better way to run big ol' tires and obtain good approach/departure angles and decent ground clearance without lifting, Im all /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

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I gather that the Dana 60 is stronger than stock?

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the D60 is much stronger than a D44 or 10bolt (whatever ya have now stock)... and can be made to be even stronger (35 spline outters, 40 spline upgrade etc etc). Just a FYI, the D60 looks like this...

D60 pic

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Does it have other virtues over stock?

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lol, this is sorta like asking "hey, is this money good for anything other than buying stuff?". /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Maybe, but the only reason to own a D60 is cause its stronger than the 10b/44. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif On the negative side, they are expensive, parts are more expensive and they are a lot heavier. To me, all of those are worth it... if you plan on using your rig offroad and especially in rocks then a beefy front axle is a good idea.

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Any reason not to wait for breakage to upgrade?

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well, you can certainly get more $ for your used stock front axle than you can your broken stock front axle if you sell 'em. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

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Also, I know what a Dana 60 is but could you spell out what the "14 bolt FF" part means?

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sure, all it is is a full floating 14 bolt rear axle. Its the 1 ton GM axle that chevy/gm has used for years and years in their 3/4t and 1t trucks. VERY beefy and very inexpensive as well. Definitely a fav for chevy/gm offroad fans. They are ID'd via their 14 bolt differential cover. They look like this...

ff14b pic

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BTW, is there a glossary of abreviations around here somewhere?

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eeerrrmmmm, I dunno... if there isnt, you can PM me with questions about any you dunno about. Im always willing to help out a new guy... mainly because a few years back I was a new guy and this site helped me a TON. My rig is HELLA more capable than it was before CK5... and I did it for a hell of a lot less $ than I would have if I had just done it on my own. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

j
 
Sounds like you're new to this sport. Also, you sound young if you still listen to your father.

Something to think about with the D60 front axle: its not something thats needed but rather too many want it, even for unnecessary uses. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

Sure you may say you're gonna do some rocks, but everyone has to start somewhere and for a brand new experience, the D60 is not something for someone to just jump into and install it. Start out small, with the 8 lug D44 or 10 bolt. Chances are, you may not be experienced enough to break one, just yet. Once you start getting the hang of the game, and get to breaking stuff, then you can look at upgrades.

Be warned a good used D60 sells on average, for around $1000-$1200. Its not a cheap thing to pay for, but its a wise investment. I would just start with 3/4 ton axles and work your way up from there. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
And at a $1000 purchase price, you're not done there. EVERYTHING is more expensive for the D60 than any other axle and by the time it's all over with, with all the goodies, you can easily have $2-3K invested before long.
 
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And at a $1000 purchase price, you're not done there. EVERYTHING is more expensive for the D60 than any other axle and by the time it's all over with, with all the goodies, you can easily have $2-3K invested before long.

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Or more..... /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
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