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argument about the purpose of CV driveshafts

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Yokes are not weld on. They bolt on and usually require a little convincing to come off /go back on.



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I'm pretty sure the yokes on all of my driveshafts are welded on, not bolted /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif..............or is there some other terminology used for the part on the driveshaft that the u-joint attaches to???
 
I was only thinking Pinion yoke. Not driveshaft yoke. Sorry. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
Pinion yokes bolt on Driveshaft yokes weld on.
 
I never found my Pinion Yokes to be over tough to pull off. No, they didn't slid off by hand, but a standard adjustable puller made quick work.

1410 yokes themselves arn't too procy, the 205 and D60 yokes are stock parts on dodge cummins trucks. If you want the U-botl style over the strap, then be prepared to pay for it.

I got my U bolt style yokes from Jess @ HAD. Good [censored]. My shafts are retubed Factory Dodge cummins shafts, They only came on the rear. Add a set of spicer life series u joints, and you've got a pretty stout combo.
 
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The argument was that the only real purpose for a CV shaft is to eliminate vibrations. They dont relaly gain much more angle if any.

If the vehciel is rarely driven on the street, a CV isnt really needed.

Whats the truth to this? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

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Hoo boy, lots of replies. Lots of good info and bad info as well...
The info you need to know is very simple-at any significant angle, a u-joint will introduce a harmonic vibration into the shaft behind the joint. This harmonic increases in severity with increased angle. A second joint at the equal angle (this angle may be negative or positive in orientation) will introduce an equal and opposite harmonic into the shaft behind that joint-thus equalizing the rotation of the first and third shafts. Really, the collar between the two joints in a double-cardan or CV joint is just a tiny shaft which makes very small the mass which carries the harmonic vibration so you won't feel it.
Now, if you have a CV front joint, the third joint at the pinion needs to be near zero degrees to the shaft or it will re-introduce its own harmonic into the pinion shaft.

Originally double-cardans were used to eliminate vibrations. Modern variations will also accomodate greater angles of deflection in the shaft.

Any questions? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
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Tim......what's the cost of the axle and shaft yoke, and a 1410 joint?? I'm guessing a shop would probably charge at least $75 to weld the new yoke on.

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You typically make those decisions before you build yourself a big beefy driveshaft. I have no idea what it costs to swap after the fact.

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In fact I have heard of some truck pull type guys trying them and going back to a 1350 because the extra width of the 1410 made them weaker in their application. ??? Seems to make some sense/not make sense in other areas.

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That is false. 1410 joints are approximately 10% stronger than 1350 in addition to allowing for increased operating angle.

In my experiences, most pulling truck guys are total hillbillies that wouldn't know one from the other. Your experience may be different but I've never had a driveshaft conversation with a puller that I thought had any clue what he even had under his own rig.
 
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Tim......what's the cost of the axle and shaft yoke, and a 1410 joint?? I'm guessing a shop would probably charge at least $75 to weld the new yoke on.

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You typically make those decisions before you build yourself a big beefy driveshaft. I have no idea what it costs to swap after the fact.

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In fact I have heard of some truck pull type guys trying them and going back to a 1350 because the extra width of the 1410 made them weaker in their application. ??? Seems to make some sense/not make sense in other areas.

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That is false. 1410 joints are approximately 10% stronger than 1350 in addition to allowing for increased operating angle.

In my experiences, most pulling truck guys are total hillbillies that wouldn't know one from the other. Your experience may be different but I've never had a driveshaft conversation with a puller that I thought had any clue what he even had under his own rig.

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And now you have gone and insulted my family /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
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Tim......what's the cost of the axle and shaft yoke, and a 1410 joint?? I'm guessing a shop would probably charge at least $75 to weld the new yoke on.

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You typically make those decisions before you build yourself a big beefy driveshaft. I have no idea what it costs to swap after the fact.

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In fact I have heard of some truck pull type guys trying them and going back to a 1350 because the extra width of the 1410 made them weaker in their application. ??? Seems to make some sense/not make sense in other areas.

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That is false. 1410 joints are approximately 10% stronger than 1350 in addition to allowing for increased operating angle.

In my experiences, most pulling truck guys are total hillbillies that wouldn't know one from the other. Your experience may be different but I've never had a driveshaft conversation with a puller that I thought had any clue what he even had under his own rig.

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And now you have gone and insulted my family /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

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Don't start that crap.
 
The fact that CV's have to Ujoints incorportated into them will make them last pratically twice as long as 1 ujoint. If you angle a CV the same amount as 1 ujoint, each ujoint in the cv is only angling half the distance. So your ujoints in a CV are moving as much and will last longer.
 
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The reason a CV removes vibrations is soley because it CAN handle more angle than a standard u-joint. People will tell you you need one and some won't. I have about 6.5" of suspension lift in the rear and when I had my rear shaft built I wanted a CV but the driveline guy said I didn't have enough angle to require one. I just went with a 1350 slip yoke and complete 1350 4" shaft. I couldn't be happier.
7068New_drivelines-med.jpg


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Sorry to hijack but... I notice in your picture that at your t case you have some slip yoke showing. Is that how it is supposed to be or? On my blazer that I just finished the 1 ton swap my shaft is all the way inside the housing. and it makes it difficult to get the shaft off.Just wondering.thanks Now back to your regularly schedualed postings.
 
My .02 on whether you are going to need cv's or not.

My K5 currently has a 1350 rear shaft w/ a front angle of 16 degrees and a rear of 5.5 degrees (pinion still slightly up from a previous setup)

I can cruise 50-55 mph w/o too much vibration but after that look out. I think the rear shaft would blow right out if I ever got it to 80.

It's in the process of being straightened out but I figured the info could be helpfull in figuring out what you need.

Oh yeah, No issues trailwise and I thrash it pretty hard.
 
There should be some of the slip yoke showing. It will need to slide in when the rear axle goes up.
 
Holy crap...
Please tell us you have not been driving around after the swap...
You should have some of the slip yoke showing. Just think what will happen if you articulate you axle just a little bit or if you hit a speed bump fast enough the driveshaft will slam into the t-case probably cracking a case or transmission or adaptor...
Most people would say that about 2 inchs is a good starting point for the amount of slip to be sticking out.

Blake
 
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My .02 on whether you are going to need cv's or not.

My K5 currently has a 1350 rear shaft w/ a front angle of 16 degrees and a rear of 5.5 degrees (pinion still slightly up from a previous setup)

I can cruise 50-55 mph w/o too much vibration but after that look out. I think the rear shaft would blow right out if I ever got it to 80.

It's in the process of being straightened out but I figured the info could be helpfull in figuring out what you need.

Oh yeah, No issues trailwise and I thrash it pretty hard.

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This is not a street truck AT ALL. Maybe up to a resturant or something close by. Or to the trail head. But, not much at all.
40-50 mph would be about the most.

44s are too expensive to drive on the cement. /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
 
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If your driveshaft in the front is over 30" long, I'd go 1410 non-cv front and rear.

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But to go to a 1410... I need a new front output shaft also. I will just go 1310 front and 1350 rear. Money is spent.
 
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Holy crap...
Please tell us you have not been driving around after the swap...
You should have some of the slip yoke showing. Just think what will happen if you articulate you axle just a little bit or if you hit a speed bump fast enough the driveshaft will slam into the t-case probably cracking a case or transmission or adaptor...
Most people would say that about 2 inchs is a good starting point for the amount of slip to be sticking out.

Blake

[/ QUOTE ] /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif No i have not driven it yet . I am still working out the bugs . this is my first swap so i wasnt sure how much was supposed to be showing /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I am getting my shaft shortened this week.I am not /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif just a little /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
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