You don't need pro quality their hi performance is more than enough
CK5
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ARP bolts
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
wasted wages
1 ton status
https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=22915
good reading here about the need to align hone with studs....or at least check the main bores... I don't see the need for studs on most normal rebuilds anyway... unless your really winding the sh*t out of it, or running some serious boost or nitrous, stock or replacement main bolts are fine..
good reading here about the need to align hone with studs....or at least check the main bores... I don't see the need for studs on most normal rebuilds anyway... unless your really winding the sh*t out of it, or running some serious boost or nitrous, stock or replacement main bolts are fine..
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So which flex plate?
You don't need an SFI approved flexplate you are not racing with NHRA or the like.
The Amazon one is just fine
Hahahaha, sorry. Im getting myself confused with all these options... thanks again
For the regular G8 bolts, try Tractor Supply.
They sell by weight and priced decent.
Should save you a couple bucks.
Also, if they don't have the size they want, they will put you in contact with the bolt rep and order what you want at the same price.
They sell by weight and priced decent.
Should save you a couple bucks.
Also, if they don't have the size they want, they will put you in contact with the bolt rep and order what you want at the same price.
Ok ordered Kickdown, flexplate and torque converter to flex bolts(grade 8) Amazon
Monday from summit will order ARP flex to crank bolts, transmission cooler lines.
Hardware store for new grade 8 cross member bolts. New grade 8 bell housing bolts. Possibly the bolts for the front drive shaft to Tcase flange.
Then from 4xshaft will order Ujoint bolts kit and strap kit..
Shiz.... so many little things just add up so quickly.
Also I think I need to get like 2-3 long bolts or rod type things put in the engine bell housing holes to help guide the tranny in.
Sound about right?
Monday from summit will order ARP flex to crank bolts, transmission cooler lines.
Hardware store for new grade 8 cross member bolts. New grade 8 bell housing bolts. Possibly the bolts for the front drive shaft to Tcase flange.
Then from 4xshaft will order Ujoint bolts kit and strap kit..
Shiz.... so many little things just add up so quickly.
Also I think I need to get like 2-3 long bolts or rod type things put in the engine bell housing holes to help guide the tranny in.
Sound about right?
I don't know why people have a problem lining up an automatic.
With the jack you have you should be able to fine tune the angle and elevation and then slide it in as long as you have a flat concrete floor.
I did a 700r4 with a 203/205 doubler on my sloped driveway.
All I had to do is use a ratchet strap to pull the transmission up the driveway as I was adjusting the angle.
I'm not going to say all of those people are idiots, but most of them on the first 3 pages are and I quit there. Usually I side with people that are "doers" and not "thinkers" but these guys are clearly not engineers or trained in material sciences.
You need to check the alignment of the mains regardless. Usually you know if they're off by looking at the bearings when it came apart. There will be babbitt moved around or just plain be missing. There will be oil coked where there is a low spot. If the bearings are uniform... run it.
The goal of the fastener is to hold the cap in place with enough tension that it never moves. Technically the fastener is stretching. A 1/2" stud at 110ftlbs, lubricated, delivers something like 1300lbs of clamping force.
With a bolt and you are not stretching to the proper length, you are essentially measuring the torque it takes to put the whole bolt in. Might be rubbing on the cap. Might have an irregularity in the threads in the block. Might have irregular (not perpendicular) surface on the cap. With a bolt, you need to know which bolt came out of which hole. It is imperative the threads be clean and free of defects.
With a stud you are threading the stud into the block all the way, finger tight. There is no distortion in the block from twisting something into it under tension. It will not lose "torque" as the block changes temperature because of limited thread engagement. You know exactly how much thread engagement you have (all of them). When you go to tighten the perfectly smooth nut on the stud, there is a perfect surface for it to slide on (the washer). You are measuring the torque to stretch the known length of the stud between the last thread of engagement and the bottom of the nut. You actually need *less* torque on a stud because you know exactly what it is getting because there are so much fewer places you have loss. The amount of distortion caused by a stud in a cast iron block is less than the distortion caused by lack of uniformity in temperature. Even if you use a torque plate it's going to be not round because of the block's irregular cooling not because of the head fasteners.
I've always used regular grade 5 or 8 bolts to attach the flex plate to torque converter ,never had an issue with them..
As for long bolts to help guide the transmission into place--sometimes they help,other times not,if there isn't enough room to pull the transmission back far enough to get it to slide over the head less bolts,your forced to just put it in without them..the main thing is to be sure the torque converter was installed right ,with all three "steps" engaged on the input splines,and not to use the bell housing bolts to pull the transmission into place--get it squarely seated against the engine first on the dowel pins,otherwise its easy to crack the bell housing..
As for long bolts to help guide the transmission into place--sometimes they help,other times not,if there isn't enough room to pull the transmission back far enough to get it to slide over the head less bolts,your forced to just put it in without them..the main thing is to be sure the torque converter was installed right ,with all three "steps" engaged on the input splines,and not to use the bell housing bolts to pull the transmission into place--get it squarely seated against the engine first on the dowel pins,otherwise its easy to crack the bell housing..
1. Flex plate bolts are not SAE standard industry length bolts, which is why proper size bolts designed for the flex plate should be used.
2. One of the differences between studs and head bolts is that head bolts are supposed to be "one time only" use bolts, and studs can be used multiple times. This is why race teams use studs because they are constantly tearing down there engines.
3. I always use an SFI rated flex plate on my street engines not because I need one, but because they are only about $15 more than a standard flex plate...so, what the hell...might as well buy one.
2. One of the differences between studs and head bolts is that head bolts are supposed to be "one time only" use bolts, and studs can be used multiple times. This is why race teams use studs because they are constantly tearing down there engines.
3. I always use an SFI rated flex plate on my street engines not because I need one, but because they are only about $15 more than a standard flex plate...so, what the hell...might as well buy one.
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The few engine swaps I did,the torque converter used nuts & bolts,they weren't the type with a threaded insert welded to the converter,nor were they metric..if they were that type,then I'd say yes,be sure to use factory spec bolts..but the ones I did ,I just used regular 3/8" bolts,I may have had to grind them down a bit though,I cant remember..
The thicker flex plates are probably more resistant to cracking around the crank bolts that the thin stock ones,so that alone is reason enough to justify paying a little more for the better ones...its not a job you want to do over again..
The thicker flex plates are probably more resistant to cracking around the crank bolts that the thin stock ones,so that alone is reason enough to justify paying a little more for the better ones...its not a job you want to do over again..
SFI rated flex plates have the starter teeth welded to the center plate on both sides, and factory OE ones are only welded on one side.
@1-ton is talking about the flexplate to crank bolts.
Those are special bolts.
The flexplate to torque converter are flanged bolts
I just re-used the original crank to flywheel bolts,as I did not replace the flex plate with anything aftermarket that may be thicker than stock..
I've often wondered what happens when you use shims on a manual transmission flywheel that has been resurfaced --they list shims to put the flywheel back in its original position,but the bolts will now not engage as many threads,since the center where the bolts are doesn't get any material shaved off--and I see no listings for longer than stock bolts ...I guess it isn't enough to matter ?..
I've often wondered what happens when you use shims on a manual transmission flywheel that has been resurfaced --they list shims to put the flywheel back in its original position,but the bolts will now not engage as many threads,since the center where the bolts are doesn't get any material shaved off--and I see no listings for longer than stock bolts ...I guess it isn't enough to matter ?..
