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Attn. Diesel Glow Plug Gurus - I need you to help me start my truck!

colbystephens

colbystephens

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so i was trying to start my truck for the first time today since the rebuild and i finally got the wiring working enough to get my GP controller to work. (The PO) royally messed up the wiring). After all of that, i was only able to get the passenger side glow plugs to work - the drivers side didn't do a thing. traced all the connections, and i didn't find anything. anyone have any suggestions? I really want to start my truck - it's been down for a year. :( FWIW I tried turning the engine over with only the one side working hoping i could get enough of the engine going to heat up the otherside, and i didn't get any ignition of the fuel even on the passenger side.
 
i would re-wire all the plugs to a manual toggle switch, gp controllers are unrealiable and un-safe, just my 2 ...:wink1:
 
Do you just have to run 12volts to them? if so i should be simple enough just to run wires to em?
 
hey, if you got it wired to a manual switch then just re check your wiring, theres really no other reason i can think of that would cause one side to heat up and the other to not. if the wirings that messed up itd be well worth your time to simplify it up and trim excess wire out of the way
 
the thing is, this was all done by the po, and it's as confusing as women. it's insane. in addition, i don't know anything about wiring. :( so, essentially, you're telling me to just get in there and figure it out. :) ok, well, thought maybe there was just some freak thing i should know.
 
Did you try squirting WD-40 down the intake. When I was having glowplug issues I would use WD-40 to get it started. After that it ran great.
 
i'm not really interested in doing something of that nature, particularly to a freshly rebuilt engine. i'd rather have my glow system working properly.
 
I agree with you there. I thought you just wanted to get it started. I have a great manual I got from a diesel site for the 6.2. I will try to find the link for you. I really liked my 6.2.
 
sorry to sound a little vague but with the way my manual glow plugs are set up there are two wires going to the switch, one for each side. those two wires then split to each plug on their respective side. if yours is a similar setup then just start with a glow plug on the side thats dead and follow it to the switch. i used the wiring diagram from this site to wire mine and it was pretty easy to follow so if yours is more complicated than i described above maybe think about re wiring it.
 
All the glow plugs should be going through the big relay on the fender well. The GP's draw huge amps so all that should not be going through a simple toggle switch.

Colby, There should be a relay on the drivers fender. From that relay there should be a light blue wire running up to the center rear of the engine to the glow plug controller. The 'correct' way to convert to manual control is to snip the light blue wire about 6" from the controller at the back of the engine, then pull it out through the loom and route it under the dash. To activate the GP's all you need to do is turn the key on and ground the light blue wire with a push button switch.

It sounds to me like someone wired your GP's up in series and you have a dead GP effectively killing the power to the rest of the GP's.

Rene
 
ok, got my gp's going - didn't start my truck tho. turns out that the fusible link in the orange wire which goes from the gp controller to the green gp wires was shot. oh well. now they work!
 
yeah, that's something i've been meaning to look at. i think that's my problem now. i'm getting fuel to the injector lines, but i don't have any in the return lines. :( wierd. any thoughts?
 
First, double check that all fittings and clamps are good and tight.

Second, is the lift pump a known good pump or new replacement? electric or manual?

Third, injection pump new or rebuilt? Injectors?

New gp's? 9G's? 11G's? AC 60G's?

Disconnect the pink wire from the IP, then crank until the filter has no air. I undo the outlet line at the filter housing and wait until i see fuel without bubbles coming out (Ice cream bucket to keep the spilled fuel to a minimum.

Connect the pink wire again, disconnect all the gp's and remove them from the motor. Loosen all the unjector lines right at the injectors. Crank for 15 seconds while a helper watches, let the starter cool for 2 minutes. Repeat until a line begins to drip...and as they drip snug the fittings up until all 8 are done.

Re-install the gp's and wires to the gp's. Let the gp's cycle, hold the gas pedal down just a little and start it.

rene
 
good summary! thanks.the lift pump worked when i bought the rig a year ago - but i only drove it a couple times before it went under the knife. everything fuel related is oem - except new filters of course. gps are new (kennedy quick heats).

rene - check out the following thread, as it has some more info about the current situation and tell me what you think. http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169211 you've answered most of my questions on that thread's topic here, but there's a bit more to add in the other thread.

thanks for the info.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Disconnect the pink wire from the IP, then crank until the filter has no air. I undo the outlet line at the filter housing and wait until i see fuel without bubbles coming out (Ice cream bucket to keep the spilled fuel to a minimum.

Connect the pink wire again, disconnect all the gp's and remove them from the motor. Loosen all the unjector lines right at the injectors. Crank for 15 seconds while a helper watches, let the starter cool for 2 minutes. Repeat until a line begins to drip...and as they drip snug the fittings up until all 8 are done.

Re-install the gp's and wires to the gp's. Let the gp's cycle, hold the gas pedal down just a little and start it.

rene
Click to expand...

what's the pink wire do?
 
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