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Auto trans cooler (Martin need not apply)

4wheelinfury said:
Why not just a heat sink cooler? I did one of these for my hydro assist and am planning on just putting one on the frame rail when I do my engine trans swap.

der-13252_w_ml.jpg
Click to expand...

Idk, are those any good?
 
I vote for a large stacked plate cooler. I didn't look to see what you linked to, I was too busy laughing at the title and Martin's post...
Anyway, I don't have any experience with a stacked plate cooler, but the benefits have been proven and they are more durable, in my opinion. Do you have a plan for where to mount the cooler yet? Or maybe just some ideas?
I should put on on my fat block, but I have only had the temp get warm a few times.
 
beags86 said:
Idk, are those any good?
Click to expand...

they are surprisingly efficient. There is something to be said for simplicity. Are you running a cooler in the radiator too? IMO, unless you are running a high stall or towing crazy then they should be just fine. I am putting in a 4L65e and will most likely be going with one. Then again this is pretty sic.

Extreme_oil_cooler.jpg
 
6872xtc said:
I vote for a large stacked plate cooler. I didn't look to see what you linked to, I was too busy laughing at the title and Martin's post...
Anyway, I don't have any experience with a stacked plate cooler, but the benefits have been proven and they are more durable, in my opinion. Do you have a plan for where to mount the cooler yet? Or maybe just some ideas?
I should put on on my fat block, but I have only had the temp get warm a few times.
Click to expand...
Yes I did link a stacked cooler. It will prob go up front because. It will run after the factory trans cooler in the rad.

4wheelinfury said:
they are surprisingly efficient. There is something to be said for simplicity. Are you running a cooler in the radiator too? IMO, unless you are running a high stall or towing crazy then they should be just fine. I am putting in a 4L65e and will most likely be going with one. Then again this is pretty sic.

Extreme_oil_cooler.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes. Both of those. 2000 stall and towing.
Plus I have a 475hp 406. I am just trying to make the t-350 live as long as possible. Which I know won't know be long.

That cooler is sick. Where or who is that from?
 
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I live the belief that the stacked plate design is most efficient and also to plumb it from trans to radiator to get the fluid up to operating temp and dissipate any condensation in the fluid then out to a filter then to a big as you can fit cooler then back to trans
If you look at GM trucks they use a stacked plate design with ports entering thru the bottom of the cooler
Most aftermarket coolers say to not plumb this way but I figure GM has some R&D behind their decision to install that way.
 
I just picked up a 34 row stacked plate design to replace my 14 row stacked plate design in my 2wd blazer with a 350TPI and 700R4. I say go big. While you are at it, change all the soft lines to -6AN lines. No more leaking. Plumb in a filter and I actually have two temp senders. One right before it goes back to the trans, and one in the pan. I wired them to a toggle switch and one gauge.
 
I love running my spin-on filters in my trans systems... ya basically never have to pull the pan again..
 
Ryoken; here is a question for you. On my spin on trans filters, I have to crank them down so damn tight to not leak that they are a biatch to change. What do you use? I use a B&M spin on filter kit in one and a Derale one in another.
 
being thinner oil, I tighten mine maybe a bit tighter than a standard oil filter, but not by much I'd say...

I've always just used standard Wix or Napa gold 1515, etc filters on billet housings like my K5 has...




000_0004-15.jpg







I would look closely at the mating surface on the housings for imperfections...
 
oh, and here's the setup I ran years ago.. cheesier cast housing.. never an issue..




filter.jpg
 
Rugger187 said:
I just picked up a 34 row stacked plate design to replace my 14 row stacked plate design in my 2wd blazer with a 350TPI and 700R4. I say go big. While you are at it, change all the soft lines to -6AN lines. No more leaking. Plumb in a filter and I actually have two temp senders. One right before it goes back to the trans, and one in the pan. I wired them to a toggle switch and one gauge.
Click to expand...

The whole system will be -08an

ryoken said:
000_0004-15.jpg
Click to expand...

What do you have 4 filters for?
 
Rugger187 said:
I just picked up a 34 row stacked plate design to replace my 14 row stacked plate design in my 2wd blazer with a 350TPI and 700R4. I say go big. While you are at it, change all the soft lines to -6AN lines. No more leaking. Plumb in a filter and I actually have two temp senders. One right before it goes back to the trans, and one in the pan. I wired them to a toggle switch and one gauge.
Click to expand...


This.

I am pulling my 700 right now and dropping a 6.0 and 4L65e in it. Moving over to a Art Carr shifter and mounting two sensors. One at the trans and one in the cool side of the cooler. Inline filter is a good way to go.

I can't find a price on the unit below but I haven't looked too hard.


http://www.prchotrod.com
 
4wheelinfury said:
This.

I am pulling my 700 right now and dropping a 6.0 and 4L65e in it. Moving over to a Art Carr shifter and mounting two sensors. One at the trans and one in the cool side of the cooler. Inline filter is a good way to go.

I can't find a price on the unit below but I haven't looked too hard.


http://www.prchotrod.com
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only place I see them for sale, they are $450

https://www.premierstreetrod.com/detail/PRC-29307/Extreme_Duty_Oil_Cooler.html

I am running tube/fin coolers on my 4L80e and power steering, mostly because they are less restrictive to the air flow. I have not seen my trans temps above 185* and engine never gets above the temp the fan kicks on.

I use the small K&N spin-on filters for my trans and power steering.
 
Good lord! $450 isn't going to cut it, sick unit for sure but I would build one myself before I bought that one. And I have no desire to build one.

For the record I hate you guys, I wan't planing on running a spin on trans filter and it looks like I am going to run one now. I would rather do it now and not have to worry about it when I do a trans swap later. And two temp sending units as well...

Paul: where did you source your filter adapters?

Rugger: where did you get a 34 row cooler? The biggest I have seen was a 30...
 
beags86 said:
Paul: where did you source your filter adapters?
Click to expand...


I now run the earl's billet ones.. the in/out worked for what I was doing... and the quality is killer


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-2178erl/overview/


you can get cheaper cast ones for $25 to 30.. that's what that second pic is... probably just a cheap summit one or similar.. I like billet stuff for the machined surface, etc..




and Earl's is also a source for nice trans coolers, the Temp-a-Cures.. up to 60 row... I'm gonna run 2 in the K5... not cheap... but they make like 50 different configs, 60 row, 50, 42, 34 etc and REAL nice quality........


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-2178erl/overview/
 
Earl's from summit for my 34 row. You can get a 'wide' or a 'narrow' 34 row. The wide is about 2 1/2" wider. I would also opt for the Earl's mounting kit. Makes it easier.
 
Oh and for the record; Earl's -8/-6 AN wrench does not fit summit brand or Russell -6AN fittings. It is too sloppy.
 
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