roadnotca
3/4 ton status
The back-up hubs were designed for Women, no dis.; they are definetly light duty. I'll get out and flip the switch rather than back-up, looks like a cat covering it's s.
Last edited:
CK5
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Auto vs Manual Hubs - Why Swap?
- Thread starter prossett
- Start date
I was out exploring a local park, and got stuck in a hole that I didn't see through the overgrown road. So, I put it in 4Lo to try to get out. My driver's side hub failed. It took me a good dozen tries of backing up and going forward to finally get out of the hole (forward), but then I had to go back across the hole, with no room to turn around.
When an automatic hub fails, it's no fun at all.
I installed manual hubs the very next day, never looked back. Everytime I'm beating the truck up off-road, taking the hubs apart for a simple inspection and cleaning takes a whole 15 minutes.
Not hard at all to convert from automatic to manual. Warn hubs come with directions that tell you exactly what to do.
Automatic hubs make a distinct 'clicking' noise when they fail, it's quite annoying too.
I had a clicking noise with my autos. I just switched over to premiums this week and havnt heard the clicking... hmmm
prossett
1/2 ton status
yup
CustomChevy
1/2 ton status
ok i'm somewhat new to manual hubs, so no laughter. YOU CAN DO THAT?!?!?! WITHOUT BLOWING UP THE AXEL!?!?!?
Sir, you have just made my day.
Leper
1/2 ton status
bear76 said:
No friggin way!!!! That is very bad!!!!
Leper
1/2 ton status
prossett said:
nope
k20
3/4 ton status
yeh you can, doesnt hurt anything, front shaft is turning, so are the axle internals, but it aint connected to the wheels, so the tcase aint gonna bind up, letting you use low on pavement if necessary.
Also, as a rule if Im goin wheelin, Ill lock in the hubs, drive there (so it lubes up the axle) shift into 4wd, play, back to 2wd, unlock the hubs, and drive home.
Also, as a rule if Im goin wheelin, Ill lock in the hubs, drive there (so it lubes up the axle) shift into 4wd, play, back to 2wd, unlock the hubs, and drive home.
Leper said:
Disagree, BTDT, no problems.
prossett
1/2 ton status
Well, I think that technically it's possible without causing any damage, but I'm not sure in which circumstances you'd actually want to.
I think what happens more often with manual hubs is leaving them locked when you go out of 4WD for a short while, with the intention of going back into 4WD "just in a few minutes" because you don't want to get out and turn the hubs free.
I think what happens more often with manual hubs is leaving them locked when you go out of 4WD for a short while, with the intention of going back into 4WD "just in a few minutes" because you don't want to get out and turn the hubs free.
fireplug
1/2 ton status
Ok I gotta clarify this for myself. Is the general consesus that it is bad to leave the hubs locked when in 2WD? I do this all the time in the winter and as far as I know haven't had problems. I realize that I'm using more fuel and wearing parts out but am I potentially damaging my truck?
Have someone explain why it matters one bit if it's in 2wd or 4wd and the hubs are locked. With an open (stock) front diff it doesn't make a bit of difference.
You can't possibly bind the drivetrain up like you can with 4wd on hard surfaces. The front differential lubes itself just like the rear does. The t-cases are all splash oiled (except the 241) so the front shaft turning but not under power also doesn't make a bit of difference.
We do this for about two weeks straight when hunting. (both '73-87 chev rigs) No reason to be in 4wd on hard packed forest service roads, but when changing altitude on the order of 2-3000 ft in 30 minutes all day long, road conditions change rapidly. On the lower hard packed stuff you are most certainly putting additional strain on drivetrain components in 4wd, and your economy is worse in 4wd as well.
Also no reason to be in 4wd starting out on the freeway going over a mountain pass, but it makes a lot more sense to lock the hubs in before you have problems than it does to try and stop on the freeway to turn the hubs in IF there is a reason.
If all you do is hardcore fourwheeling, hubs locked 2wd probably doesn't make sense. But in changing road conditions it does.
2wd low works awesome for backing up a trailer in hard to see or maneuver conditions, and getting heavy loads moving on hard ground.
You can't possibly bind the drivetrain up like you can with 4wd on hard surfaces. The front differential lubes itself just like the rear does. The t-cases are all splash oiled (except the 241) so the front shaft turning but not under power also doesn't make a bit of difference.
We do this for about two weeks straight when hunting. (both '73-87 chev rigs) No reason to be in 4wd on hard packed forest service roads, but when changing altitude on the order of 2-3000 ft in 30 minutes all day long, road conditions change rapidly. On the lower hard packed stuff you are most certainly putting additional strain on drivetrain components in 4wd, and your economy is worse in 4wd as well.
Also no reason to be in 4wd starting out on the freeway going over a mountain pass, but it makes a lot more sense to lock the hubs in before you have problems than it does to try and stop on the freeway to turn the hubs in IF there is a reason.
If all you do is hardcore fourwheeling, hubs locked 2wd probably doesn't make sense. But in changing road conditions it does.
2wd low works awesome for backing up a trailer in hard to see or maneuver conditions, and getting heavy loads moving on hard ground.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
Looks like we broke a dam of controversey here. #1, if its stock, operate it per the factory instruction, period. #2, if its auto hubs (somebody insert years here) and we've modified to manual (95%? of us) locking hubs, and/or changed from the orig. T-case (50%?), or installed a traction dif. (25%?), we've developed our unique drivetrain and we need to walk it through piece-by piece. I'm just saying for the newbees, if you're starting the experiments, be responsible for the thought process, what works for someone's rig here in the Forum, may cost you $$, or a stuck. Yeah, I've tried T-case Lo with hubs unlocked, LockRite in front and yeah it works, I could steer without binding and yeah I couldn't reasonably drive that way over 30 MPH, and I didn't feel comfortable doing it for long. That's alot of machinery turning all the way out to the hub while being disconnected. By definition, there's axial slop right there at the hubs, and that gets taken-up when you're turning, and if the hubs aren't engaged, the pieces are moving at different rpm, maybe a problem. Hoping the hub is the weaker of the two.
fireplug
1/2 ton status
Thanks dyeager535, that's exactly what I've been doing and am happy to hear I haven't been abusing my equipment.
Well put.
Well put.
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
what is this rumor i've heard
about i hub locked and the other1 not ...tearing stuff up?...is that just for trucks with lockers in the front?
about i hub locked and the other1 not ...tearing stuff up?...is that just for trucks with lockers in the front?
6.2puller
1/2 ton status
Most all of this is here say. I have spent days straight in 4low on granite with all 4 tires having traction and it doesn't bind anything. The tires slip enough that you are not going to brake anything. I have had to change a tire after a long full traction run in 4low and when you jack up the rig the tire actually spins a bit to unload the bind but it isn't so much that it would break anything. Other than fuel mileage you could run around all year in 4wd on bare pavement and you would just wear parts faster. Your Tcase is not going to explode. Think about it, when you climb a flat granite slope at 45+ degrees with all 4 tires on the ground and all that torque does the tcase explode? No way unless it weak.
Running one hub locked and not the other is common practice in my crowd for tight turns when in 4low. Get out and unlock the drivers side and you have 3wd and can turn. The only issue would be that all the torque of the front end is going down the one shaft and to the one tire so if you had a large rock infront of that tire you would be getting no assistance from the other end in climbing it. The torque isn't any greater other than the drivers side not helping. No different than when one tire is in the air and the other is climbing.
AFA putting the Tcase in low with the hubs unlocked that is no problem either. It works great to keep control of your truck on a steep gravel road or loose washboard road when 4wheel drive is not needed. I use it on the crew cab when moving the trailer around on inclines or declines just for better control. No need to get out and lock the hubs.
Running one hub locked and not the other is common practice in my crowd for tight turns when in 4low. Get out and unlock the drivers side and you have 3wd and can turn. The only issue would be that all the torque of the front end is going down the one shaft and to the one tire so if you had a large rock infront of that tire you would be getting no assistance from the other end in climbing it. The torque isn't any greater other than the drivers side not helping. No different than when one tire is in the air and the other is climbing.
AFA putting the Tcase in low with the hubs unlocked that is no problem either. It works great to keep control of your truck on a steep gravel road or loose washboard road when 4wheel drive is not needed. I use it on the crew cab when moving the trailer around on inclines or declines just for better control. No need to get out and lock the hubs.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
That is trick locking one hub.
