autometer gauges, aluminum bezel, idea

[K85 Octane]

gezz, only problem with those are the prices, ouch
2x24=48
6x14=84
total=$132+shipping
just in rings
uggg

 

[copternadley]

Ok, I gots to run this past everyone.

First are the questions:
Can the aluminum bezel cover support the weight of 6 gauges?
How does the cover attach to the old bezel? A few screws or can bolts be added?
Can you weld to the cover? Is it weldable?

Picture, lets keep it easy....
4 soup cans w/ ID just large enough to fit my 2 1/16 gauges
2 larger soup cans w/ ID just large enough to fit my 3 3/8 speedo/tach

cut the angles right and match the rings on the bezel
at the bottom of each can you have a hole with the gauge
the top of the can "should" somehow match the bezel holes
the top should also be cut on an angle that sets the gauge just right for good line of sight
weld cans to aluminum bezel
powdercoat bezel to cover weld discoloration

then I don't need the old gauge holder in the way
cover the old PRND321 indicator hole
run LEDs in the bezel for blinkers

sound good?
*scratches head

I think you can. Can you put pictures on it? also the dimension of where you'll put it. Also I recommend you get AutoMeter gauges, it's cheap and it's durable.

 

[chevyfumes]

A buddy of mine used PVC.

 

[K85 Octane]

I'm putting together the beginning of my build thread. I will get my act together any day now. Currently working on gauges and super happy they way it's coming along. Sneak shot... just wish PO didn't hack up the stereo hole AND the metal behind it.

 

[rdn2blazer]

Here is my dash build, may help. Bought my Angled bezels from Rex Marine.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256956

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=4angle

 

[Phewson1]

I did something close with white faced Auto Meter gauges. I took the alum cover from Billet Specialties and redid the top gauge mounting locations to move them closer to the windshield. Then used a die grinder to enlarge the holes on the alum plate to accecpt the gauges. Cut down the dash lip to make it look better, and then touched it up with a sandable 2 part plastic filler. The shift indicator and turn signal lights are in the stock location. All of the "idiot" lghts are now off to the side where the left ac vent used to be, behind a smoked plastic piece that came off my Peterbilt dash when I redid it. I took the 2 AC vents that were there and eliminated them. Left side idiot lights and extra switches for lights and plug for winch remote, right side factory dash pocket for wallet and phone. (do not like to keep them in pants, as I always drop or mislpace them). I use some alum sheet metal (easy to bend) to make a divertor plate for the dash AC tube to blow down below the dash at my feet and legs. I also eliminated the factory dash vents with the matching billet insert with the vent grooves instead off cutouts.

 

[noJeepshere]

I remember stumbling across a technical article years ago about a guy that wanted to do the same thing you're doing, he did a real nice job of it and looked really good, I printed it up so that I could have it for when, if ever, I got around to being able to do gauges. Let me look for it...

edit: found it: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/gauges_recessed.htm

 

[kevin400ex]

heres mine i did years ago. the top pic is how it looks now, my blazer has sat for a few years now awaiting its rebuild. i cut some pices of thin aluminum and cut holes in it to mount the gauges to then used screws to hold the aluminum to the dash bezel. i did trim the bezel holes some to make the guague openings larger and allow the whole face of the gauge to show. the bottom pic you can see the screws holding the gauges to the bezel before i put the aluminum peice over the bezel.

 

[folkenheath]

I went at it from behind so the front of the bezel looked the same. I modified the stock cluster and removed the PC board. I used the older sheetmetal piece that covers all the gaps between the gauges (instead of the newer plastic one). So when I was done I ended up with a cluster I can just plug in (using a 16 pin connector from a junk car). I also braced it in the back with a little piece of angle aluminum for the main two large gauges. And used PVC to space out the small guages after removing a 1/4 or more off the back of the factory plastic bezel. It took me a good 15 hours of work probably because I had to test fit and measure and mark so many times but I was real happy with how it turned out. And no wires or glue holding the gauges. In fact, you can pull the bezel out and the gauges are still in the cluster in the truck that you can also remove as one piece.

 

[rob h]

Mines not super fancy but here is a pic, I used dolphin shark guages, use mostly in street rods. I took a stock bezel and removed everything behind it, the bezel i cut around all the guages and placed 1/16 sheet alum over top with self taper screws. I drilled 3 holes for leds, 2 for the turn signals and one for high beams. You can unplug it and pull the whole bezel out if needed. Serves its purpose i guess......

 

[K85 Octane]

nice replies, love the ideas fellas. Got me thinking all over again, which is what I needed. Anyone else? Anything that you did helps, me...you...the masked guy behind you... The ideas are great.