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automotive wiring

metalneverdies

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This may be a really stupid question, but what are your thoughts on using nylon lined stranded wiring. The kind you get from home depot in automotive uses. The jacket says that if should be gasoline and oil resistant.

Is using nylon lined stranded copper wiring from homedepot a bad idea? Is there a difference in "automotive wire"? The main difference I see is automotive is more flexible.
 
I've used THNN stranded wire from box stores on my trucks for some things--its OK where its not exposed to a lot of heat--you wont want to use it on a starter solenoid near the exhaust or on the fusible links if you ran them thru the OEM conduit pipe for example..

I've used other wire like lamp cord or extention cord wire on many things like speakers,low amp draw things like bulbs and radios,trailer lights,with no troubles..thats a lot more flexible than THNN and has finer strands...
 
I've used THNN stranded wire from box stores on my trucks for some things--its OK where its not exposed to a lot of heat--you wont want to use it on a starter solenoid near the exhaust or on the fusible links if you ran them thru the OEM conduit pipe for example..

I've used other wire like lamp cord or extention cord wire on many things like speakers,low amp draw things like bulbs and radios,trailer lights,with no troubles..thats a lot more flexible than THNN and has finer strands...

The wire says THNN and several other things and has a UL stamp. It would be used to wire up the engine bay fuse block. It all will be inside split loom. It is already done and ready to go. After I finished my wiring I finally found a local place that sells rolls of automotive wire.

I can rewire it all with the automotive stuff if that would be better. The nylon coated cost me $16. The automotive wiring cost $50.
 
Apparently the difference is the temp rating of the jacket. Automotive wiring is called something that ends in "X" as I recall (GMX or something, I dunno, google auto wire and you'll see it, there are two different ones) and that seems to be the real difference.

Much of the non-auto stuff isn't rated for what I'd consider safe for underhood temps, low to mid 100's IIRC.

Unless you need really long runs, the interior wiring out of mid 90's-up GM cars is plentiful and in perfect shape. Comes out in about 5 foot lengths or so. Getting proper colors even online is a bit difficult, if you care about wiring up to factory diagrams.
 
I see.

I the automotive wiring isnt labeled with a temp max. The auto wiring at radioshack maxes at 176*. The nylon wires I got from homedepot are marked 176 aswell. The auto wires I bought from O'Reilly's is not marked.
 
Here's an example. This is GXL, can't recall the other http://www.ebay.com/itm/GXL-automot...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7dddda73&vxp=mtr

If you google, GXL I expect indicates what it's rated to, so no real reason to list temp separately I suppose. I'm pretty wary of anything at chain auto parts stores...most of it is Chinese (which can't be helped in some cases anymore) and unless someone is really QC'ing their garbage, just because it says its rated for something, I wouldn't trust it.

I suppose some less-than-scientific test could be made, like how fast the jacket ignites X distance from a lighter or something, but I'd rather just buy stuff that is at least sold as being GXL or whatever the other one is.

The other variable is probably quality. It may be rated for 176* or whatever, but whether it actually lasts without cracking for 20 years like the factory stuff, is another matter.
 
All these below are high temp, underhood rated for automotive use and chemically resistant to auto fluids...

The TXL is what I use when building a EFI harness, it's lower cost is do to less insulation, but all the wires here get split loom. Easier to work with.

GXL costs a little more for more insulation. Good for open wires, not in split loom. More for like interior harness that is not in split loom.

SXL has more insulation then the other two. Good for an open wire under hood.

SGX is like batt cables and altenator stuff.
 
Doesnt automotive wire also have insulation to lower "radio" noise in the electrical system? RFI or something maybe its called.... Mallory and the like components sometimes need a RFI filter to prevent radio noise and voltage spikes.

Maybe my BAC count is low though.
 
From my limited electrical knowledge I think all stranded wire is OK, it's the solid core that causes noise?
 
Doesnt automotive wire also have insulation to lower "radio" noise in the electrical system? RFI or something maybe its called.... Mallory and the like components sometimes need a RFI filter to prevent radio noise and voltage spikes.

Maybe my BAC count is low though.
No. Spark plug wires are built to lower RFI (through resistance and/or inductance), but wire insulation will have virtually no effect. Sensitive applications will use shielded wire or twisted pair. Some ignition coils use a filter or "condensor", which are really just capacitors.
 
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