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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ChickenRammit, Aug 1, 2006.
what is the best way to fry an alternator so i can take it back to autozone?
Spray the bearings with a strong degreaser and over-rev it until it siezes...
OK OK...that may not be the best way, but it sounds fun.
Why would you want to fry one ? To get a new one ?
Sand, or metal filings
Short the diodes out .
what would be the best method to accomplish this
Short the "I" terminal to ground simulating a chaffed wire harness .
http://www.delcoremy.com/pdfs/at1002 wire harness.pdf
its actually on an '84 honda prelude, so what wire would that be on a typical alternator.
I don't know anything about qualudes . Maybe just seperate the case and do a cut internally or something .
You never said what the problem is in the first place . Is the alternator good or bad , or intermittent . Getting a new alternator when you don't know whats wrong is a waste of work . Volt/ohm meters are our friends
hook the battery cables up backwards. but that can obviously cause other problems
Take it OFF the car, and apply 110V AC current to the two smaller wires...something BAD is bound to happen! ..or touch it to an arc welder...that'll fry it!..might leave incriminating arc marks though...
--just dont electrocute yourself in the process,and blame ME !..
Hope no Autozone spies are reading this thread... ....
drive about 200 miles from an autozone and it will fail on its own
Mud and Water pretty much did my 94 amp Autozone Alt. in. Yes I got a new one.
My starter that I got from pep boys was dying out, had to give her the ole tap every once and a while to get it to work. Nevertheless I didnt want to be stuck with a non starting truck in the middle of no where, so I took it back to pepboys. Of course when they bench tested it, it worked and they didnt want to take it. So I said ok, went out to the parking lot played soccer with it for a while, and "accidently" inserted a bunch of small screws into it I found in the back of my truck. When they tested it AGAIN it made a horrible sound and then froze. Hahahahaha, stupid bastards, I told them they were going to take it back either way. It was funny when the guy picked it up and a bunch of nuts and bolts fell out of it. I was like dude, look at the crappy starter, its already falling apart.
Im sure an arc welder would take care of that alternator.
Same thing killed mine. Just spray it down good.
i works intermittently. its not charging the battery. i took it out once and had it tested and of course it worked fine. got home checked all the wiring on the car, everything was good so i checked the connectors and the one with the 2 smaller guage wires was a little loose fitting so i took the connector apart and tightened up the metal contacts so that the connector would fit tight again hooked everything back up, it was working great. checked the volts at the battery and it was reading 14.5 volts, so i'm thinking awesome, all fixed. go for a drive, come back, check volts again, reads 11 volts, then i'm thinking, ****. so then i wiggle the connector around on the alternator, and it starts charging the battery intermittently. so i am now guessing that the prongs coming of the alternator have some kind of faulty internal connection. now i need to fry the alternator to insure i get a new one this time when i take it out. i just didn't state all this before because it was a pretty long explaination as you may have noticed.
back to the main question which wire on any given alternator would you have to ground out to destroy the diodes? should i just ground any wire coming off the alternator?
Instead of getting another crappy AZ alt. that'll probably end up with issues too, why don't you just byte the bullet now and get a real one.
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