axel 'trouble' (not anything really wrong yet...)

[Pizza_Man]

Okay, to start off I went to the snow yesterday to test out the jimmy, and ran into some problems. First off - the guy before me put a SPOOL in the front. Found out it makes it damn hard to turn - ended up running the trail in 2wd (not all bad, got to make some fun at a friend's jeep). So I am faced with deciding on what to do next - I am contemplating a truetrac (know some people that have them, nothing but good so far), or going all out and getting a dana 60 and run open until I get the money for a truetrac and be done with it.

Now then, the problems I would run into with the dana 60, is I still have a 12 bolt in the rear - not horrible, but I would need to run different wheels. And if I kept the 44, then I would be "done" for now, but when it comes time for 1 tons, I will have wasted some green. So what to do? also I have found a dana 60 on CL for 500 - ready to go minus rotors and calipers. It is out of a 81 dodge - would i need to move anything on the axle or would it bolt in?

Also, in an unrelated question, how do I get an avatar picture?
And I know i spelled Axle wrong in the title

 

[BoondocK5]

I think to have an Avatar you have to be a supporting(paying) member, Not sure on that.

As far as the Dana 60, I've been building the Blazer for over 8 years now and am just now getting the dana 60. I say go for it so you don't spend more than you need too.

 

[bmp4510]

Pizzaman,
I'd say listen to your ol' man, run with the dana 44, either with an open carrier or with the Truetrac. Changing axles will require wheels and tires, u-bolts, driveshaft mods for the different u-joints, etc. The 44 and 12 bolt hold up well to moderate to heavy four wheeling, as long as tire size, horsepower, and YOUR RIGHT FOOT don't get to extreme!

 

[jms]

... or going all out and getting a dana 60 and run open until I get the money for a truetrac and be done with it....

If you don't need a locker in the front, you probably don't need a Dana 60 front axle either.

The "do it right the first time and spend money only once" approach is a matter of opinion. Over the years, I've seen a lot of guys decide to "do it right...", only to never 'wheel again...

 

[BoondocK5]

The "do it right the first time and spend money only once" approach is a matter of opinion. Over the years, I've seen a lot of guys decide to "do it right...", only to never 'wheel again...

Yes, that would be me, but, I'm almost done now.

 

[MontanaJohn]

The "do it right the first time and spend money only once" approach is a matter of opinion. Over the years, I've seen a lot of guys decide to "do it right...", only to never 'wheel again...[/quote]

I have a K20 that had a FF14Bolt and a 10bolt frt diff when I purchased it. I bought an '83 Chevy Dana 60, had it shipped, then had to pretty much rebuild it. It had the proper gearing and the better non-tappered inner axles, but everything else was shot....hubs,upper/lower kingpins, inner seals, rotors, carrier bearings, lockouts, spindles, etc. The cost was substantial, but a buddy did most of the tech. work for free. The end result is what I wanted, a stout D60 at the frt of my truck. The cost in parts/setting gear lash was about $3K. Not Cheap...but now its 'done right'. Just go in w/ both eyes open regarding costs.

The Dodge unit is interchangable w/ the chevys, but the spring perches are approx 1/4" inboard of the Chevy locations. Some guys shim the leaf spring evebolts to the inside to close the difference. Just take a good look at the unit to see what is salvageable, and what isn't. Stick w/ the OEM Spicer hubs, they are case hardened machined steel parts (versus the cast parts on the Warn/Mile Marker units). Using 35 vs. 30 spline outer axles is up to you.....if you need to replace the stub axles anyway, upgrade to the larger axles because cost is almost the same. Just don't use the tappered inner axles on the earlier units. Better to break the outboard parts, than the inner axles.......less colatteral damage. Good luck.

 

[toomany]

Personaly I'd jump on the D60 for $500. Even if you don't use it to it's fullest extent right now, you'll have it when the time comes. Finding a matching rear axle is about as easy going to a junkyard.