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Axle question

Ray Reynolds

Ray Reynolds

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I have a chance to buy this,
02 chevy 1500hd 4wd 14 bolt semi float rear with locker, 3.73 gears locker works brakes work, $150, is it worth it?
 
It depends what its going in to be worth it imo.

Full float means the axle does not support any of the vehicle weight. It just drives the vehicle. Semi float does both.
 
obijuank5 said:
It depends what its going in to be worth it imo.

Full float means the axle does not support any of the vehicle weight. It just drives the vehicle. Semi float does both.
Click to expand...
It's going in a 87 gmc full size jimmy that I plan on running 35's
 
There are many more options that you can better spend 150 bucks on.

That axle is fair. Great if you have a 1500hd that needs one. Otherwise it's a ton of work to make fit in a k5.
 
obijuank5 said:
There are many more options that you can better spend 150 bucks on.

That axle is fair. Great if you have a 1500hd that needs one. Otherwise it's a ton of work to make fit in a k5.
Click to expand...
Ok... I'll pass on it then... What should I look for?
 
Any other square body rear axle. A 3/4 ton 14 bolt in both full and semi float versions can be had in 3.73 if that is what you need. And it bolts in.
 
There are semi float 14bolts that came in 80's 3/4 ton burbs and trucks that are bolt in...

No discs or factory lockers though.

Also full floaters can be had from 3/4 burbs and trucks of the same era, also bolt in, same deal with no factory discs or lockers, but discs can be swapped to the full floaters and lockers are plentiful in the aftermarket.

If you have the ability to swap spring perches than the 02 axle may be a good buy, but the devil will be in the details...

Thousands of folks have swapped earlier 14 bolts of both varieties in so information is everywhere.

If you get the later one, you may be doing mucho research to figure out things like e-brake hook ups and yada yada...
 
Justin V said:
There are semi float 14bolts that came in 80's 3/4 ton burbs and trucks that are bolt in...

No discs or factory lockers though.

Also full floaters can be had from 3/4 burbs and trucks of the same era, also bolt in, same deal with no factory discs or lockers, but discs can be swapped to the full floaters and lockers are plentiful in the aftermarket.

If you have the ability to swap spring perches than the 02 axle may be a good buy, but the devil will be in the details...

Thousands of folks have swapped earlier 14 bolts of both varieties in so information is everywhere.

If you get the later one, you may be doing mucho research to figure out things like e-brake hook ups and yada yada...
Click to expand...
As far as the Fab work I have 0 issues. I come from a street rod/hot rod building background and I've done allot of fabrication... Does anyone know if they're are same width?
 
No the newer axle should be a bit wider than the stock axle. Should match the front. 2- 3 " wider.

I like the SF 14 bolt. Certainly not as strong as a FF

But compared to a 10 bolt it's no contest

20141025_142018_zpsd5ttm65m.jpg
That's a 9.5 SF vs a 10 bolt shaft.

With that kind of a background you should have no problems adapting brake lines/ebrake cables.

Not to mention way better brakes.
 
If you want to run 6-lug, the 14B s/f (9.5" ring) is the best choice. If you will go 8-lug anyway and will run bigger than 35" tires, you might as well look for the FF (10.5" ring). The price of either is the same, but the FF axle is much stronger. However, the ground clearance with smaller tires is kind of silly off-road. Swapping the front end from 6-lug to 8-lug isn't very hard. Also, selling your 6-lug wheels and buying 8-lug wheels isn't necessarily a big expense.. You need to search this site for information on both axles. Pretty good gearing and locker options for both.

Basically the FF puts the wheel on a hub that rides on dual tapered roller bearings on a spindle. You can remove the axle shaft with the hub and wheel still bolted to the axle. The shaft is bolted to the hub. In the SF, the wheel flange and axleshaft are one piece. In GM axles, the shaft is held in by a c-clip (not a retainer as shown below) inside the differential and rides on a single roller bearing pressed into the axle tube

25061910313_fab8cde234_c.jpg
 
I've wheeled a semi float on 37s and a locker for a few years now pretty hard... Never had an issue with mine, but I am going to a full float because I have it and want to go bigger.

@Richcz28 broke an axle shaft in his semi float and had to be drug out of the woods.... it was interesting trying to find a 6 lug axle shaft so he could get home the same day. Just keep that in mind.
 
swettysblazer said:
I've wheeled a semi float on 37s and a locker for a few years now pretty hard... Never had an issue with mine, but I am going to a full float because I have it and want to go bigger.

@Richcz28 broke an axle shaft in his semi float and had to be drug out of the woods.... it was interesting trying to find a 6 lug axle shaft so he could get home the same day. Just keep that in mind.
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right and a full float.. you can drive home as the axle isn't holding the rear tire on. that is the super benefit if it is a ... drive to the trail.. rig
 
Thanks guys, allot of great info! I've decided to go full float. Gonna hit a couple the local junk yards this week to see what I can kick up
 
You might know this already, but pulling the cover and looking at the stampings on the ring gear will give you axle ratio. And EDIT to one of my above posts, I completely forgot about the Gov-Loc lockers in these axles...

You very well may locate a full floater with one...

Also check the early 2000's 3/4 and 1ton truck for factory disc full floaters, not bolt in, but you said you weren't scared of swapping perches...
 
And for an early full floater to be bolt in, it has to be from a 3/4 ton. The squarebody 1 ton's have narrower perches than the 1/2 and 3/4 tons...

42.5" center to center for 1/2 and 3/4,

40.5 for 1 ton
 
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RootBreaker said:
right and a full float.. you can drive home as the axle isn't holding the rear tire on. that is the super benefit if it is a ... drive to the trail.. rig
Click to expand...

You will have to lock the hubs to drive it with a busted rear axle if the rear diff isn't a posi--once one axle shaft breaks,a open diff will just spin the busted axle,having the least resistance..
I've never had an axle snap even on a 10 bolt,but I do only on-street driving and plowing,I like the fact a full floater wont let the tire and rim fly off if an axle breaks..
 
diesel4me said:
You will have to lock the hubs to drive it with a busted rear axle if the rear diff isn't a posi--once one axle shaft breaks,a open diff will just spin the busted axle,having the least resistance..
I've never had an axle snap even on a 10 bolt,but I do only on-street driving and plowing,I like the fact a full floater wont let the tire and rim fly off if an axle breaks..
Click to expand...

yup...

I was watching a youtube video where a guy in a pickup was doing a burnout and broke his axle, and tire/axle slid off to the side.. gotta find it now..

cant find it.. grrr but found this...

OP - look at 7min mark...
 
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