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Axle Removal

kyle.rj133

kyle.rj133

1/2 ton status
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Location
Hooper, UT
went to the a local junkyard this after noon and saw a SRW Dana 60 and they only want 150 for it! :woot: Going tomorrow morning to go pull it. Hopefully its not gone!!

Does anyone know of any specific tools I should take? socket sizes, wrenches, BMFH... etc?

Junk yard opens at 8 and I have work at 11. I need to have it out by then and im pulling it myself..
 
The lug nuts should be 7/8"

The u-bolts should be 15/16"

The sway bar is 1-1/8"

The drive shaft should be 1/2" if u-bolts or 7/16" if staps (I think)

Brake lines should be 10mm

Shocks should be 3/4"

Martin
 
82355 said:
Torch.

Martin
Click to expand...


Seriously hes right. If the truck is rusty at all the only way I see you yanking that by your self in 2.5hr is a torch.

Just lop the u bolts off, burn the brake lines, cut the sway bar and draglink and unbolt the front driveshaft.
 
The lug nuts should be 7/8"

The u-bolts should be 15/16"

The sway bar is 1-1/8"

The drive shaft should be 1/2" if u-bolts or 7/16" if staps (I think)

Brake lines should be 10mm

Shocks should be 3/4"

Martin
 
Here most boneyards wont let you use torches,only the employees can,and you'll pay double to have them chop it out for you (might be worth it though!)--the suckiest thing to deal with is the sway bar,those 3/4" bolts with 1-1/4 heads sometimes seize in the spring pads and are a bitch to bust loose--and unscewing 4 u-bolts can induce a heart attack ,been there,dont that.................................................................................................................................................................................................................what we usually did to pull a 4x4 straight axle at the junkyard was to use a sawsall to cut the leaf spring bolts at the shackles and front hanger,and cut the brackets off the sway bar that hold it to the crossmember,and just give the springs an all as part of the deal,as half the time they were pretty beat and might be cracked or sagged anyway--almost all front GM springs broke at the front eyes and you wouldn't see it until they fell off on the ground...usually taking the shocks and driveshaft off weren't a big deal...cordless sawsall with a spare battery pack or two will be indispensible here...
 
PB Blaster
cut the brake lines


also, you aren't getting it out by yourself unless the junkyard people are going to help. I would pay whatever they want to pull it, with your time restraints, otherwise you might miss it. My junkyards don't help and don't allow flammables :( I pulled it with the help of my brother and Jeff (munepit). It was on dirt, crappy cart, and a lot of strength/patience to drag it ~100 YARDS to the opening.
 
I always take:

PB Blaster
Snappy cordless 1/2" impact- with extra batteries
bolt cutters
aviation snips
set of wrenches & sockets
pry bars
the cordless sawzall is also helpful

since you are pulling a D60, a floor jack and a furniture Dolly or 2 might be a good idea

at my local yards, they have wheel barrows, and engine hoists, but no carts, so it may be a good idea to have a length of chain to use the hoist to pick the axle up
 
If you are only using hand tools then be sure to have a good leverage bar to slip over the breaker bar. Also even if you don't want to pay them to pull it I would offer some money to have the rig pulled up near the shop and see if they would let you use air and bring an impact.
 
If you have to move it any distance, take two wheels with tires, and you can just roll it.

Martin
 
Saw-zall is all you need.

Leave the wheels on it.

Cut leafs, shocks mount (or shock itself) and brake lines and wheel it out, the drive shaft should pop out of the tranny and then you can either cut it off or unbolt it.
 
kylerj133 said:
Going tomorrow morning to go pull it. Hopefully its not gone!!

Junk yard opens at 8 and I have work at 11. I need to have it out by then and im pulling it myself..
Click to expand...


Why didn't you just pay for it up front so you own it already and go pull it at your leisure? :dunno:
 
I took a gamble and waited until I had more time and helping hands... I got it pulled this morning! 150 dollars it was mine!!! :woot:

PART_1350177107923.jpg



It came out of this truck. A gmc seria classic 25 camper special. Didnt even know those came with a dana 60

PART_1350177241611.jpg


THIS MOFO IS HEAVY!


PART_1350177285244.jpg



I dont even have anything to put it in at the moment, :doah:But the deal was to good to pass up!
 
80' 427 said:
they didn't come with them
Click to expand...

sweetk30 said:
1 of two things ..

wrong fender badges

or

swaped in to that truck.
Click to expand...
Nope! Wrong! This actually and FINALLY the very first K20 I have ever seen that came with a D60 front.

I remember reading somewhere years ago that very few K20's that were camper specials had D60 fronts. Yep, I didn't believe it either but that quote stuck in my mind forever because I wanted to prove everyone wrong. I was on a roll until this thread popped up along with the pics to show it. Now I've been proven wrong and here it is, the ultra rare K20 with a D60 front! :bow::waytogo:
 
thatK30guy said:
Nope! Wrong! This actually and FINALLY the very first K20 I have ever seen that came with a D60 front.

I remember reading somewhere years ago that very few K20's that were camper specials had D60 fronts. Yep, I didn't believe it either but that quote stuck in my mind forever because I wanted to prove everyone wrong. I was on a roll until this thread popped up along with the pics to show it. Now I've been proven wrong and here it is, the ultra rare K20 with a D60 front! :bow::waytogo:
Click to expand...
And I'm gonna stand by this quote until we see the actual fender badges, RPO sticker, build sheet, etc.

Meanwhile, pics of the brake booster should be posted along with a pic of the rearend so we can see which u-bolts are under it and where the shocks mount.
 
The OP needs to repay his debt to the d60 gods for getting such a great deal by documenting this rig with photos for the masses...:D
 
thatK30guy said:
And I'm gonna stand by this quote until we see the actual fender badges, RPO sticker, build sheet, etc.

Meanwhile, pics of the brake booster should be posted along with a pic of the rearend so we can see which u-bolts are under it and where the shocks mount.
Click to expand...

Now you got me confused ha. But that truck was loaded with cool features from what I saw. I didnt look at the brake booster, but it did have factory cruise control, a/c, and a factory tack but somebody already took it (factory wiring harness was still dangling in place).

The rear end was just a 14bff, are ubolts different on 1 tons?


Right under the camper special badge it said gvw 8400 if that means anything
 
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