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axle shaft snap ring

shadowwalker_02

shadowwalker_02

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Alot of people have had this issue but I haven't found any anwsers yet. I can't get the snap ring on the driver side stub shaft. I replaced the rotors, pads and hubs. I just swapped out the selectro hubs for basic warn hubs. The passenger side went on smooth but the groove is too far back on the drivers side to get the snap ring back on. I've tried using a prybar to push the stub out and I still can't get to the groove. Anyone know the trick to get this on, I'm stumped. I can't even get the snap ring on using the old hub gut piece.
 
i had to trim the dust flange on the stub shaft 1 time cause it limited the amount of movement to engage that snap ring.

the dust shield is just tapped on the stub shaft. might wana check that.
 
Pry bar on the joint has always worked for me. I have had to pry it in and out a couple times to make sure I am getting maximum amount of shaft sticking thru.

obvious but I will say it anyway. Make sure the rotor is pointed straight and not turned.
 
The rotor is straight but I'll double check it to make sure. I pried it quite a few times to try to get enough movement to get the snap ring on but no dice. :dunno:
 
shadowwalker_02 said:
I pried it a few times but got limp and the shaft slid back inside and won't pull back out. I tried rubbing it but no luck on that either.:dunno:
Click to expand...

:haha:

Maybe the races aren't fully seated? Would that cause problems? You might have to pull everything back apart that's behind the hubs. :dunno:
 
The races are the only thing I didn't replace but I did buy them. I couldn't figure out how to get them off. I'll have to tear everything back apart again anyways. I didn't torque it right so I have to do that and I'm going to have to replace a inner seal again.

lol you quoted it before I could change it.:haha:
 
Pry bar on the joint worked for me too, just make sure you keep constant pressure on it with a foot or something. IF not, not sure :\
 
KidJethro said:
Why bother? Leaving the snap ring off isn't gonna hurt a thing.
Click to expand...

That's what I was just about to say. My new mile markers specifically say not to worry about it if you can't get the snap ring on the stub shaft.
 
4X4HIGH said:
No, the small snap ring MUST be installed otherwise you risk water and dirt getting into the spindle bearing. The snap ring keeps the proper amount of tension against the stub axle and the spindle seal. First make sure you don't have a snap ring on the stub axle BEHIND the locking hub body, then you need to use a small pry bar (or screwdriver) to move the axle assembly outwards while you install the snap ring on the stub axle outboard of the locking hub body.
Click to expand...

I looked up the instructions on the warn basics and they didn't really say anything about the snap ring. The warn premiums say don't bother with the snap ring. My issue is there is enough play in the stub shaft to let alot of water and mud into the hub and I want to avoid that.
 
I have warm premos, d44, and snap ring installed. There shouldn't be any clearances that would keep you from also doing so. Just so you don't think the new warns are holding you back.
 
That snap ring typically indexes the center of the u-joint to the steering axis of the knuckle. That is a good thing.
 
The problem I have is this. When you take the hub/rotor off so it's nothing but the spindle/stub shaft and slide the hub gut on, the hub gut hits the threaded part of the spindle with not enough clearance to get the snap ring on while prying the joint forward. I've compared the warn hub gut to the selectro hub gut and there the same size. Unless I'm not seeing something stupidly simple (which I'm probably not seeing) I can't figure it out. I'll take some pics and maybe vid to help out tomarrow am. My best guess is she hates me cause I didn't say I love you for the past week and she is playing the hard to reassemble game...

All joking aside, I can't think of anything. I know this dam thing will fit in there cause I took it off easily. The parts are the same size so my commen sense says it will go back together. I dunno I"ll be messing with it tomarrow before the storm hits and see if I can't figure something out.
 
Block of wood + BFH. Then try prying and holding the pressure. you sound like me, i did the same thing. Only, i was putting the same hub back in! Trust me, it is something small and stupid hahaha.
 
shadowwalker_02 said:
The races are the only thing I didn't replace but I did buy them. I couldn't figure out how to get them off. I'll have to tear everything back apart again anyways. I didn't torque it right so I have to do that and I'm going to have to replace a inner seal again.

lol you quoted it before I could change it.:haha:
Click to expand...

Why are you going to have to replace that seal again? I assume you mean the wheel seal on the back of the hub/rotor?

Here is a trick when you are taking it apart, but that seal is ok.

Remove the 2 spindle nuts
Remove the outer wheel bearing
Re-install one of the spindle nuts on the spindle
Now grab the rotor and pull it straight out quickly The inner bearing will hit the spindle nut and it will pop the wheel seal out nice and clean.

For the races they need to be tapped in and out with a brass drift or punch. Its a good idea to replace them with the bearings too. Make sure they seat all the way. Its an obvious sound when they bottom out. Put them in the freezer overnight before you do it. It will simplify it some.
 
Same issue I just can't get the stub shaft to pop out enough to get the snap ring on. The pic is with a prybar holding the stub out as far as it will go. I need at least a 16th to an 8th inch more to get the snap ring on.

PICT0380.jpg
 
Is that the model where part can be put on backward?? I remember someone else having a problem with a hub that would not engage and they had it assembled backward.
I'll see if I can find that thread. Not sure if that would cause your problem, but it might.
 
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