Axle strength?

[Hogback Fabrication]

Here we go again...

Just tell the guy to get welded 1-ton axles, 44's, and heck, while he's at it, why not turn it into a tube buggy now...

I did suggest that he buy lunchbox lockers and run it.

I am one of those guys that bought a detroit for the 12 bolt that was under mine stock. At that point I was one of those that said 35's would be the biggest I would ever go. I regretted buying the detroit about 4 months after getting it because I could have had a FF 14 bolt with a detroit and pretty much whatever gears I wanted for less than the detroit. I ended up shearing off one of the bearing journals on that detroit (on the street!) and got all my money back. I was lucky and that is when I switched to 1 tons. At the very least, I would swap to a FF 14 bolt and get a detroit for that. You will probably end up at the same cost and will be way stronger. I wouldn't throw $1000 at a dana 44 for an ARB because that is alot of money to risk with something you may change your mind about later. Just relating to my own experience.

 

[TDAWG1]

Thanx guys for all the input. Has been a major help. What is wrong with running the lockers. List me some pros and cons. I have always liked the detroit and the ARB, but it seems none of you are crazy about the idea or have had bad luck. Do tell! I don't have a ton of horse power at least yet so I am not to concerned about the torque breakage.
Anywho thanx again.

 

[blazinzuk]

What is wrong with running the lockers. List me some pros and cons. I have always liked the detroit and the ARB, but it seems none of you are crazy about the idea or have had bad luck.

I think the point people are trying to get across is you have to drive not only at your skill level but at your equipment level. If you have a locked rear 10 and are running 35s it is most likely going to break even if you are gentle. So you need to be prepared for it. Chance of breaking a 14 b with a locker and 35s are almost zero. When you add a locker you add stress to the axles shafts thats why the negativity about lockers and 10b. You will be miles ahead if you get some 3/4 ton axles lock the rear find some spare front parts. If you break the front axle you can pull all the parts out and still drive home. If a c clip axle fails(rear only all front axles are full floaters) 10b or 12b well it aint fun for your buddys

 

[Hossbaby50]

Lockers are a great help offroad. Onroad they take some getting used to. Spending the money to put a Detroit or an ARB in a 1/2 ton axle is one of those things that most concider to be a waste of money in a fullsize because the 1/2 ton axles (especially rear axles) are considered only strong enough to run 35" tires and that can still be problematic.

If you don't have alot of money already invested in your 1/2 ton axles (lockers, gears, etc) then it is cheaper in the long run to upgrade to heavier duty axles first then do the lockers and gears. You will be ahead in the strength department and reliability.

There have been lots of discussion about this on the boards for many years. Everybody has there own opinion.

Harley

 

[76zimmer]

I run a high compression 383 stroker with a 10 bolt front and 38.5's and a TH400 with no breakage. Drive with your head and not your right foot and they should hold up for you ok.

Man, why have all that power and not use it? You can get around with a V-6.

 

[TDAWG1]

So jist of the matter is I can go 12b in the rear lock it. I should be OK but will still need some more parts for those just in case days. Keep the 10b in the front but again stock up on parts. ARB if I just think I have to. As for the idea of the 3/4ton axles how much of a weight dif are we talkin? Again I don't have the horses but I am going to have the gearing either way. You folks are awesome thanx for the knowledge.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

One suggestion is to find a 3/4 ton truck and swap both the front and rear axles from it. Make sure that you get the full floating rear end. You probably want to find one with 4.10 gears, that way you won't have to pay for gears and have them installed. Then buy a detroit for the rear (detroits for the FF 14 bolt are around $325 while a detroit for a 10 bolt is more like $500). This shouldn't really cost you very much and you will save a bunch of time and money in the long run, imo. You can do whatever you want with the front but a locker is going to increase the chance of breakage by quite a bit. As far as weight, the front axle will not weigh significantly more but a FF14 bolt is probably 250# heavier than a 10 bolt. I wouldn't really worry about that though, besides you are adding weight below your center of gravity

 

[TDAWG1]

One suggestion is to find a 3/4 ton truck and swap both the front and rear axles from it. Make sure that you get the full floating rear end. You probably want to find one with 4.10 gears, that way you won't have to pay for gears and have them installed. Then buy a detroit for the rear (detroits for the FF 14 bolt are around $325 while a detroit for a 10 bolt is more like $500). This shouldn't really cost you very much and you will save a bunch of time and money in the long run, imo. You can do whatever you want with the front but a locker is going to increase the chance of breakage by quite a bit. As far as weight, the front axle will not weigh significantly more but a FF14 bolt is probably 250# heavier than a 10 bolt. I wouldn't really worry about that though, besides you are adding weight below your center of gravity

great info thanx a million!

 

[81K5GUY]

Thanks for all the replies guys .I have been out of town for the last 2 weeks and havent had access to a computer.Looks like I will be looking for a 14 bolt and dana 60 .Im gong to see just how far the 12 bolt and 10 bolt will take me and if they fail then I will swap em in.

 

[TDAWG1]

Thanks for all the replies guys .I have been out of town for the last 2 weeks and havent had access to a computer.Looks like I will be looking for a 14 bolt and dana 60 .Im gong to see just how far the 12 bolt and 10 bolt will take me and if they fail then I will swap em in.

Same here A lot of trucks I saw on another site were aLL RUNNIN 12b rears or 14b rears and 10b frts so I'll make it work for now. Thanx for the help.