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Back In the Saddle Again

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I’ve pulled all the aftermarket junk except the trailer plug harness off the truck.

Speakers, radio, completely redid the fuse block. Took out 100ft of unused wire. Almost got it down to where it should be.

I have a parasitic drain im dealing with. It’s draining the battery at 10.8v. It litterally sucks the life out of the battery.

The harness is ridden with wire nuts and dry rotted wiring so Today I’m going to go through and replace the entire engine bay harness.

Make up some new battery lines and ground straps. And hope that that solves this issue.

At the fuse block pulling fuses with my meter on the negative battery side not a single circuit interrupted the drain.
 
Haha

Got the entire engine harness reworked and new battery cables put on. Bunch of melted wires on the starter+ positive battery cable was melted to the header. Alternator was wired incorrectly. Half the 305 harness and the 700r4 harness is tangled in everything. Melted bare wires all over the back of the engine. Got it all cleaned up.

I go to check to see if the drain is still there and all I had done with all this effort was made the drain more efficient :rotfl:

Instead of pulling 10v now I’m pulling 12v to ground.

I’m pretty pissed off at this point. Although the truck did need this done reguardless.

I’m lost on what to do.

My dad shows up and I tell him to rub the negative cable on the terminal so we can see if there is a spark and there is.

So I go into the truck and have him rub that cable and I listen very carefully.

The damn seatbelt/door buzzer is amplifying the sound of the negative battery cable rubbing on the terminal. The dang buzzer is shorted out. Pulled it out problem solved.

No voltage going to ground after removing the buzzer.

9428BE9E-5C7B-42F1-96CE-14989CF20910.jpeg
 
K5Devil said:
Haha

Got the entire engine harness reworked and new battery cables put on. Bunch of melted wires on the starter+ positive battery cable was melted to the header. Alternator was wired incorrectly. Half the 305 harness and the 700r4 harness is tangled in everything. Melted bare wires all over the back of the engine. Got it all cleaned up.

I go to check to see if the drain is still there and all I had done with all this effort was made the drain more efficient :rotfl:

Instead of pulling 10v now I’m pulling 12v to ground.

I’m pretty pissed off at this point. Although the truck did need this done reguardless.

I’m lost on what to do.

My dad shows up and I tell him to rub the negative cable on the terminal so we can see if there is a spark and there is.

So I go into the truck and have him rub that cable and I listen very carefully.

The damn seatbelt/door buzzer is amplifying the sound of the negative battery cable rubbing on the terminal. The dang buzzer is shorted out. Pulled it out problem solved.

No voltage going to ground after removing the buzzer.

View attachment 401558
Click to expand...
That’s a great find.
 
I don’t think this guy was joking when he said he only drove it 7 miles every weekend for 8 years. Under the valve covers the engine looks brand new. I was surprised. Gave it an oil change with some marvel mystery oil added in. I love that stuff. Sure is nice to not come out to a dead battery!
 
Ive got all my gauges working except the oil pressure switch.

Me and @Wes Harden are trying to figure it out from the wiring diagram.

But since this was an ECM controlled vehicle before how do I wire the oil pressure switch? Or will I need a different single terminal sender? Currently it has a 2 terminal sender.
 
Have you found the tan wire to the single terminal oil pressure sensor ? If you do, put a 1156/1157 light bulb between it and ground see if the oil gauge reads. then get a new bell shaped oil pressure sensor if gauge worked. The bell shaped oil pressure sensor you have is broken. FYI I have the wrench for that sensor.
 
There is no solid tan wire coming off the bulkhead. Only a tan/white wire going to that plug. Tan/white according to the diagram is for fuel sender. But my fuel guage works fine lol
 
Pink/white must be the color. Hard as hell trying to see dirty wires when you’re colorblind like me . There is no tan wire coming off the bulkhead.
 
there is an oil pressure switch, 2 prong, and oil pressure sender, 1 prong. the oil pressure sender works the gauge. the switch as near as I can tell only turn on the choke coil wire.
 
cavity 31 on bulkhead connector, out side, diver side 1 up from split.

this is wrong cavity that is none ccc carb fed emissions
 
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