Yep sent Tom woods an email. Hopefully they aren’t back logged too bad. Miss having northwest drivelines in my backyard.
CK5
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Back In the Saddle Again
- Thread starter K5Devil
- Start date
I bought a front shaft from them maybe a month ago for a truck at my work and it was like 3 days. Fast.
The slip yoke with 32 spline and flange for cv joint (NEAPCO N3-23-9163X) as far as my research can tell is no longer in production or….all the drive shaft shops have bought them all up every time they are produced and will only sell it to you on a driveshaft. If I could just buy the flange and cv joint head I would just weld it onto my existing driveshaft because it is the perfect length to cut down for it. But I can not get just the parts unfortunately. So I will have to buck up and get the entire shaft.
Nice. Plans for the old wheels? (Rockcrushers?)
Probably sell them to fund other things
Ok I think I found the flange yoke I need. It looks like this one (Neapco N3-23-9168KX Drive Shaft Flange Sleeve) superseded the 9163X it’s about 1” shorter though so not sure it it’ll work.
But on the other hand the price of the CV head assembly is like $300-$400 so I’ll be into is $600 just for the parts and still won’t have the full 1350 at the rearend. Just makes more sense to go with the complete driveshaft set up.
33 1/4 from yoke to tail shaft. Believ that is the exact same measurement on the last drive shaft I had built.
been running around all weekend. Took the blazer to the grocery store. Come out and it’s hard cranking and running like a dog again back firing-farting under throttle. Im thinking this intake has just got to go. Picked up a new intake a performer and the gaskets. Looking in my engine bay and I realized there is no ground from the engine to the frame. Put a cable from frame to engine and it solved the hard starting issue. Still runs like dog ass but that’s got to be the intake done checked everything else. Readjusted timing, carb can’t hold a setting because this intake can’t make up its mind on what it wants out of it. So next weekend going to throw this new intake in. I’m still gathering the parts for the front end so it’ll be a bit before I get the front axle under the truck.
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I doubt the intake is your issue.
Martin
Martin
What do you think I should look at?
New carb, new distributor, plugs, wires, checked vacuum, pulled the timing cover, and oil pan looked at everything I can possibly think of. Doing the research on these torker intakes and it’s pretty typical of its behavior. This intake does great at wide open throttle but street driving it’s just a dog.
It's not a good intake, but an intake is not going to cause an intermittent issue.
Martin
Martin
Timing chain was checked a few weeks ago, pan dropped as well.
Has a second used dist installed ATM.
Second carb too. But it is not tuned to this engine nor does it have off road needle and seat(Edelbrock avenger iirc)
Did foul the plugs with the last carb(also a Edelbrock).
I do think is flooding at heat soak, float to high? Needle bounce? Boiling over when stopped?
Has a second used dist installed ATM.
Second carb too. But it is not tuned to this engine nor does it have off road needle and seat(Edelbrock avenger iirc)
Did foul the plugs with the last carb(also a Edelbrock).
I do think is flooding at heat soak, float to high? Needle bounce? Boiling over when stopped?
I’m wondering if it’s an intermittent vacuum leak. It seems to run better cold but once warm starts running worse.
Just sprayed some brake clean around the intake and near the back driver side if I spray back there it starts idling high.
So even with a mountain of RTV holding this sucker on it’ll still leak. Going to need a forklift to get this intake off 
You and I also checked the vacuum and it was fine. So it must be intermittent and opening up more the hotter the engine gets.
Which explains why it runs so good after it’s been sitting for a long time.
