I may just do that then. I like that a lot better.
part number on the boot is 5752141
get one and see if it fits yours they are like $25 on summit.
CK5
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Back In the Saddle Again
- Thread starter K5Devil
- Start date
part number on the boot is 5752141
get one and see if it fits yours they are like $25 on summit.
I did actually.
I ended up unbolting the slave and manually plunging the rod slowly with the cap just resting in place and it bled after about 15/20 strokes.
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Reason I ask is because the way the line goes it actually looks like itll be too high. Thats good to know as I was worried id be running a line under the unit instead on top the bell housing due to the location of the slave.
On the subject of bleeding, when I was doing mine, I couldn’t get the air out completely. Had about a half pedal. The master cylinder slopes downward on the firewall. I took it loose and angled it up and bam, there went the rest of the air. And yes, I bench bled it before hand.
Awesome tip. I will do the same pre-emptively.
I will say this tool will save time and frustration when it comes to bleeding systems.
www.harborfreight.com
I was beating my head against the wall bleeding my internal slave system and could not get the air out. @shima was helping and could attest to that. I went and bought the tool and using vacuum pulling through the open bleeder I was done in 5 minutes. Zero air. No pulling the master from the firewall or moving the slave.
2.3 gallon Manual Fluid Extractor
Amazing deals on this Manual Fluid Extractor at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
I was beating my head against the wall bleeding my internal slave system and could not get the air out. @shima was helping and could attest to that. I went and bought the tool and using vacuum pulling through the open bleeder I was done in 5 minutes. Zero air. No pulling the master from the firewall or moving the slave.
You don't even need a vacuum that big. the mity vac tool kit comes with a small fluid cup to vac into.
www.harborfreight.com
Wow HF has brand name
Vacuum Pump
Amazing deals on this Mityvac Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Wow HF has brand name
Alright, garage is clean.
Time to get this front axle built and under the K5 which includes:
New Ball Joints
Crossover Steering arm and Knuckle
Ill measure for ORD drag link when its at ride height.
New rotors
welding in the frame plates for steering box.
Once I get the steering box pulled I will go get a 2wd one.
Once that is done I will start on the Manual Swap which I should have everything to do as well.
#update on the 14BFF and rear disc conversion:
At first the brakes operated fine. However, now the rear locks up way easy. I got a different M/C on the way to see if that solves the issue.
Time to get this front axle built and under the K5 which includes:
New Ball Joints
Crossover Steering arm and Knuckle
Ill measure for ORD drag link when its at ride height.
New rotors
welding in the frame plates for steering box.
Once I get the steering box pulled I will go get a 2wd one.
Once that is done I will start on the Manual Swap which I should have everything to do as well.
#update on the 14BFF and rear disc conversion:
At first the brakes operated fine. However, now the rear locks up way easy. I got a different M/C on the way to see if that solves the issue.
I had to put an adjustable prop valve on my rear circuit and turn it almost all the way off. I have a disc/disc P30 master and a 4 wheel disc prop valve in place of the factory one.
Im using the M/C that was on the old "PARTS LIST" that doesn't exist on here anymore.
Its a M/C from a 1999 C3500 Cardone #102754 many stated in that thread from long ago no prop needed after switching to this one.
We will see how it goes. If I need a prop after switching ill put a prop in.
I think i tried that one but it wasn't compatible with my hydroboost so I found one for an '83 diesel hydroboost 4 wheel disc P30 van that had a bigger bore than my stock one.
That is correct this one is for Vacuums only
Got the new ball joints installed on the knuckles.
Getting this axle apart was a royal PITA.
Just ask @Wes Harden got dang hub screws were completely stripped on the drivers side. Tried do drill them out to save the hubs but they were just eating drill bits.
Tried to air chisel the hub off which got it most the way but in the end used a porta ban to cut the remaining screws to get the hub off.
Hahaha
So….. any hub suggestions?
Getting this axle apart was a royal PITA.
Just ask @Wes Harden got dang hub screws were completely stripped on the drivers side. Tried do drill them out to save the hubs but they were just eating drill bits.
Tried to air chisel the hub off which got it most the way but in the end used a porta ban to cut the remaining screws to get the hub off.
Hahaha
So….. any hub suggestions?
Almost forgot to put these on
Also I went with warn premiums if anyone was wondering
no shock mounts there ? or is that next ?
Yep these will help when it comes time to fab the mount
Check @the_blaze build, for Plan B he just picked up a m/c from a C3500HD but I’m not sure he’s had a chance to install it yet.
I’m also using this m/c and it’s great but I bought mine way back, Joey should have a current part number.
I’m also using this m/c and it’s great but I bought mine way back, Joey should have a current part number.
I found the part number from a thread way back. I actually ordered the last one on rock auto. Not sure when it shows up but I hope it solves the braking issue because it’s been interesting to drive
