I don't recommend a cam with that tight of LSA in most applications, let alone a truck. But the name is pretty mothertruckin' cool.
CK5
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Back In the Saddle Again
- Thread starter K5Devil
- Start date
What cam do you recommend? I already purchased it but if there is something that gives better low end torque I am all ears.I don't recommend a cam with that tight of LSA in most applications, let alone a truck. But the name is pretty mothertruckin' cool.
The LSA is only 107 for that cam, very tight, it will idle rough and lose low end.
If you answer some of these I can make a recommendation...(deleted some of my form questions not applicable to your rig)
K5 Blazer
Vehicle Weight:
Engine Model:
Compression:
Cylinder Heads:
Cylinder Heads ported or Stock?
Transmission:
Torque Converter Size/Stall(if applicable):
Drive Axle Gears:
Tire Size:
Intended Use:
How do you want it to idle? (smooth, fair, moderate, lopey, etc.)
What RPM range do you like to use it/drive in?
Is your priority: low end torque midrange high end power (select 1 or 2)
Can you upgrade valve springs?
Can you upgrade rocker arms?
Which Exhaust? Manifolds Shorty Headers Mid Length Long Tubes
Primary Diameter:
Collector Diameter:
Exhaust Diameter: in Single or Dual
If you answer some of these I can make a recommendation...(deleted some of my form questions not applicable to your rig)
K5 Blazer
Vehicle Weight:
Engine Model:
Compression:
Cylinder Heads:
Cylinder Heads ported or Stock?
Transmission:
Torque Converter Size/Stall(if applicable):
Drive Axle Gears:
Tire Size:
Intended Use:
How do you want it to idle? (smooth, fair, moderate, lopey, etc.)
What RPM range do you like to use it/drive in?
Is your priority: low end torque midrange high end power (select 1 or 2)
Can you upgrade valve springs?
Can you upgrade rocker arms?
Which Exhaust? Manifolds Shorty Headers Mid Length Long Tubes
Primary Diameter:
Collector Diameter:
Exhaust Diameter: in Single or Dual
I’m also running a carburetor on this LS
A carb can use a little tighter LSA, but a manual trans in a truck will be better with a wider LSA for easier light throttle starts from a stop light.
I would recommend this cam for your application and low end torque with your heads, etc.
Howards 192005-12
Adv Dur: 261 267
Dur .050: 214 220
Lift: .525 .525
LSA: 112
ICL: 108
I could get one for you if you choose.
I would recommend this cam for your application and low end torque with your heads, etc.
Howards 192005-12
Adv Dur: 261 267
Dur .050: 214 220
Lift: .525 .525
LSA: 112
ICL: 108
I could get one for you if you choose.
Last edited:
I guess we will see how the BTR cam does. IF I don't like it I will let you know.
It's going to idle a little rough and it's going to be a little more finicky when you let off the clutch low throttle because of the valve overlap and less low end torque, if you don't mind those things it should do ok for you and run decent midrange and up.
Feels like Christmas over here. Put the valve springs and seals in today. Picked up a set of OEM valve cover take offs from a crate engine from a guy in town. Brand new.
Now it’s time to get the rocker arm and push rods figured out.
Now it’s time to get the rocker arm and push rods figured out.
got my LS7 Performance Lifters.
Ordered my BTR head gaskets, pushrod checker and rocker arms.
For rocker arms I am going with stock arms with upgraded bushing/trunions from Michigan motor sports. (Not needle bearings)
After these parts come in I can start assembly.
Hopefully this weekend.
Ordered my BTR head gaskets, pushrod checker and rocker arms.
For rocker arms I am going with stock arms with upgraded bushing/trunions from Michigan motor sports. (Not needle bearings)
After these parts come in I can start assembly.
Hopefully this weekend.
Purchased a new melling oil pump and pickup tube.
I’m going back and forth about the pistons and rods. They look fine. But I can’t help but feel weird reusing the old pistons. I feel like I’m already this deep I might as well take it past the edge. Idk. This was supposed to be a budget build and it’s turned into a not so budget budget build
I’m getting $100’erd to death on this thing. I’m letting the fear get the best of me. Keep worrying about parts like this thing is going to be Rev’d to the moon or something. Would be nice to make it very reliable. That’s all I want.
I still need a new timing gear set and oil pan.
Idk I’m ranting.
I’m going back and forth about the pistons and rods. They look fine. But I can’t help but feel weird reusing the old pistons. I feel like I’m already this deep I might as well take it past the edge. Idk. This was supposed to be a budget build and it’s turned into a not so budget budget build
I’m getting $100’erd to death on this thing. I’m letting the fear get the best of me. Keep worrying about parts like this thing is going to be Rev’d to the moon or something. Would be nice to make it very reliable. That’s all I want.
I still need a new timing gear set and oil pan.
Idk I’m ranting.
Using ABS plastic sheet for the rear trim should look cool. 
W/ @Wes Harden Crank and mains Spec’d out on this truck Norris 5.3. Very happy with how smooth this build is going so far. Mains are set, waiting on timing set. Need to file quite a few rings. Then time to spec the pistons.
For boost?
For regular operation they are way too tight.
For this bore the top rings need to spec at .015 they are measuring .012 2nd ring need to spec .019 and they are measuring .017/.018 nice set of Mahle rings. But yeah they are needing some filing.
I decided to take the top rings to .017
Bore: 3.78 x .0045
I’d rather be on the higher end and avoid ring butting all together.
For the bottom I have them all set at .019
But I am not sure I like that number either. I think I’ll take them to .020 which is closer to Bore: 3.78x.0055
Bore: 3.78 x .0045
I’d rather be on the higher end and avoid ring butting all together.
For the bottom I have them all set at .019
But I am not sure I like that number either. I think I’ll take them to .020 which is closer to Bore: 3.78x.0055
Talking with the guy who did the machine work. He says to run the top ring wider than the bottom. His reasoning is that the heat is made at the top of the piston and the top ring will need more room for expansion than the bottom ring. This sounds very logical to me. He said they have done all kinds of test on ring end gaps and found that there really is no difference as long as your end gaps are wide enough for the heat expansion.
don't forget you have 2 different metals for top and 2nd ring. I am sure that's why they have different specs for gap
I use the ring gap chart from total seal for the ring type you have. They have done more testing than any company out there.
