I was just looking back at my thread when I installed the vinyl mat in the truck. I cant believe how much the vinyl shrunk out here in just 3 years. It must have lost 1.5” all the way around from shrinkage.
CK5
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Back In the Saddle Again
- Thread starter K5Devil
- Start date
Happens to the best of us...
It doesnt reach the corners of the truck anymore. It seems the rear mat has remained unchanged but it is fastened all over where as the main cab mat cant really be fastened under the dash.
I could have removed the kick panels but in attempting to do so they are so brittle from the heat here that they just crack. So when I replace those and the mat ill make sure its tucked up further next time.
I could have removed the kick panels but in attempting to do so they are so brittle from the heat here that they just crack. So when I replace those and the mat ill make sure its tucked up further next time.
Been chasing a damn oil leak on this engine ever since I broke it in. Tracked it down to valve cover gaskets 3 times. The all of a sudden the front of my engine was leaking. I was thinkin “oh great my 2 piece timing cover must be leaking. So took the water pump off earlier. Found the timing cover looked great. Found a loose oil pan bolt in the very front. Tightened it up. Cleaned the engine took for a spin no more leak. Let it sit and yet again the valve covers are leaking. I have tried felpros they leaked, OEM also leaked tried another brand but so far all have leaked. Im pulling my hair out, about ready to just rtv the suckers on and call it good
You got your breathers setup right? Check the valve covers for flatness?
Yes and yes. Im just venting to atmosphere through cone filters. Also never over torqued always torqed to spec. Leak in the same spot every time. I got these valve covers off a new LS gm engine from a warranty claim they are oem and were never even used customer wanted a/m coil delete covers. Im considering trying some A/m ones at this point. The felpros o ring style literally stretch and didnt fit. Im thinking all of them have this issue.
I did finally get the ORD Steering brace kit and my winch installed today though. Also recieved the rest of my wiring harness. 
Took the passenger side valve cover off to inspect and oil is making its way under the Oring. Checked torque they were all good. I cleaned the gasket and the cover and applied a dab of RTV where the oil is coming in at. I had to do the same thing to the driver side a while back which apparently worked as it hasn't leaked since. I thought I did both sides but apparently I did not. Should be the end of my leak issue.
Is not the end of my leak issue. Probably will end up pulling this trans mission.
followed it up top and the valve cover is still leaking. Going to get new gaskets for the 4th time tomorrow.
and a pcv valve, hose
The more im thinking on it the more Im thinking this is the case
I think these engines need it.
My wife's 300K 6.2L has a weird oil leak/spray on the pass side but I'm pretty much certain it's coming out the exhaust port for cyl 6.
My wife's 300K 6.2L has a weird oil leak/spray on the pass side but I'm pretty much certain it's coming out the exhaust port for cyl 6.
It only leaks while running. Itll stay clean over night. So im really thinking it’s a pressure issue.
Bad valve seal?
Not sure. I had a broken valve spring on the cylinder next to this one but it didn't change it when I replaced the spring. Really curious to tear it down and see.
That's weird, there's really no pressure under the valve cover though.
From what I have researched is that the passenger valve cover pulls in so a filter there. From driverside valve cover to PCV hooked to manifold vacuum is the way. Unless I run a catch can but I dont think its necessary. I guess PCV is super necessary on an LS from my research. I would have though atmoshphere would be enough go pull the gasses out but apparently the manifold vac is necessary to aid in that.
in the olden days, before pcv systems, there was road draft tubes. These tube normally connected to crank case near the top of the engine, went to the bottom. An angle cut on the bottom worked as a vortex, when you went a certain speed usually 40mph + the blow by gases would be evacuated from the crank case.
This worked ok, unless the car never went over the speed needed to evacuate, then at some point thee fuel vapors and ignition would combine to blow the oil pan off.
Of course hardly any engine of the time didn't leak oil, there was a perpetual black line down the middle of every road and highway, from the road draft tube.
The modern pcv valve keeps the blow by from forming in explosive quantities, and a negative pressures in the crank case.
This worked ok, unless the car never went over the speed needed to evacuate, then at some point thee fuel vapors and ignition would combine to blow the oil pan off.
Of course hardly any engine of the time didn't leak oil, there was a perpetual black line down the middle of every road and highway, from the road draft tube.
The modern pcv valve keeps the blow by from forming in explosive quantities, and a negative pressures in the crank case.
