Bad 203, correction, Bad D44 bearing..pix, update

[Goose]

Bad day for me.
I have a '85 K30 with a th350/np203 I just put in. Trying to sell it to finance another truck. Long story but two trannys later it's been running fine. Was about to put a for sale sign on it and take out an ad locally.

About 1/2 mile from the house start hearing sound like u-joint going out. Kinda grinding and pinging. I slow and it gets worse with much louder grinding and some crunching sounds. I stop and crawl under. All u-joints okay along with front axle to stub axle joints.

Get back in and it acts like I have the parking brake on. Give it a little more and much more crunching and grinding. CRAP!
So I slip in 4low and grind and cruch to the curb so I'm not in the middle of the street.

I'm about to go pull my driveshafts and tow it home.
This really sucks, was wanting to get this sold. It's a great truck, but tranny and now t-case make me want to burn it down.

Anyway, got an ad for a np203 in the 'wanted' forum.
Anybody with experience in these?? Is it worth trying to rebuild it or just easier to replace???

thanks.

 

[Cricket]

You can buy a good used 203 cheaper than the rebuild kit.

The 203 is a good case IMO, just heavy. If you damaged any hard parts such as the chain, drive gears, output shaft, et it could get pricey. Most good used 203 cases can be had for anywhere from free to 150 bucks.

I rebuilt mine with the Mile marker solid output shaft. When all was said and done it ran me over 400.00 to complete. I had some bad chain drive gear teeth though.

 

[HarryH3]

Are you certain that you didn't have the shifter in 4Hi-Loc while driving? That will cause some strange stuff to happen!

The grinding may be the chain drive for the front driveshaft slipping. If so, then $25-75 for a used 203 would get you going again for less dollars than fixing the current case.

 

[Goose]

Well good news and bad.

I pulled the driveshafts and still no move!

Jacked up front tire and it would not turn.

Ring and pinion or evidently trying to occupy the same space.
I gotta go to work, so I haven't popped the cover yet but don't know what else it could be.

Also, just called my bro and he picked up a d44hd for $75 a while back he'll sell me for the same.

So, I guess I'll be back in business minus another $75 plus some nickel and dime and time.


Anybody want to buy a nice K30 with a d44hd??? I only got about $3500 in it.

 

[Goose]

And thanks for the other replys, I may need to know that before this project is done. j/k

 

[thatK30guy]

Bruce, I replied to your wanted thread before reading this one. Turns out you have the problem "solved" now. Make sure to post up once you get it all figured out and fixed so we know you're not stranded or stuck anywhere.

 

[Goose]

Thanks Wes, I'll keep you updated.
Hopefully it goes smoothly. I talked more with my brother and it sounds like the other d44hd is rough. I may be easier to just get new ring and pinion.
I'll know more Friday once I get it home and the cover off.

 

[chevy wrangler]

so it has a d60 up front??

 

[Goose]

Unfortunately not, I sold the D60 and put in a D44HD thinking I could then sell the truck and be golden. I shoulda kept the D60.

I gues it makes it a K20 and a half then.
Has hydroboost and heavy frame and 14BFF with big brakes, but no D60

 

[Goose]

Unbolted the drive flanges so I could drive it home.
Once home, took diff cover off and surprise!
Everything looked just fine, except almost no fluid.
Everything would turn except the pinion. Took the pinion nut, yoke and seal off and got stuck. I assume the pinioin bearing is out which brings me to a couple questions.

There's apparently an oil slinger that won't budge. How's it come out, and do I have to pull the carrier to get to the pinion bearing and race?

If I take it all apart and replace pinion bearing do I need to set the gears up again??

 

[thatK30guy]

Bruce, remove the gear/carrier assembly and then drive out the pinion thru there. Hopefully the bearing slide off.
If the bearings are bad, replace them and reset the pinion bearing pre-load. Once you get that done, put the gear/carrier back in and check the backlash.

One note: when removing the bearings from the pinion, try to be gentle and save the shims which are sandwiched between the pinion gear and the inner bearing. These are a set thickness which keeps the pinion at the proper distance to the ring gear. Reuse these shims and hope the pattern comes back out the same when you install the gear/carrier back in. It should be real close, if not dead on.

 

[Goose]

Sweet, thanks Wes.
I think I have everything I need except some marking compound to set of the gears then. ....Brass hammer to "ease" things along, torque wrench, etc. I bought some stuff to redo the gears in my P71 but had it done instead.

 

[MaxPF]

Sweet, thanks Wes.
I think I have everything I need except some marking compound to set of the gears then. ....Brass hammer to "ease" things along, torque wrench, etc. I bought some stuff to redo the gears in my P71 but had it done instead.

Do you have a close-up of the R&P teeth? It looks like some substantial wear or spalling on them. Also, if your pinion bearings are shot then the carrier bearings probably are too. I'd replace em all - they aren't terribly expensive after all...