Used a different computer with Windows 7 and got a zip file for the first time. If someone could please read this datalog and lead me in the right direction?
CK5
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Bad injector? High Fuel Pressure?
- Thread starter wheels87k5
- Start date
How large is the datalog? It shouldn't be that big should it? Can't you just upload the excel spreadsheet? Or take screenshot(s) off the areas of concern/question. Closed loop, moderate vehicle speed, flat ground with mostly closed TPS, should be running right at 128BLM, give or take a few.
File doesn't work for me. One too many periods, and for some reason acts corrupt on this computer. Can't rename it, when I try windows can't see the file.
Probably just me.....not used to zipping files and such.
I can download the zip, but the file inside has two periods in it, which is apparently causing problems for this computer. May partially be on this end, but two periods in a file name never works AFAIK.
Sorry for the confusion. I just went in and removed the extra period. Let me know if that helps. Datalog is only 19 KB
Do you have to manually enter all info from Tunerpro to Excel or is there a way to enter everything at once?
Do you have to manually enter all info from Tunerpro to Excel or is there a way to enter everything at once?
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I think I know what you mean. In TunerPro, go into "acquisition", "export log file". It will give you the option for .csv, and you can select all the data you want to see from that list from that window. The attached file is what I ended up with from yours, once I deleted everything I don't think will help. Just remove the ".txt" of course. Note that you can edit the actual datastream, so it doesn't list all the junk that is worthless in your log. Under "acquisition" again, then click on "edit definition". Within the editor it looks like it's "item list views" then "default view". I *think* if you remove certain items there they won't be logged. I haven't played with that for a long time. I notice that not everything that is in the datalog is listed there either. While it's somewhat annoying having a ton of blank columns, it's good to have the error codes still there, I've had issues with bins that have been corrupted, that don't trigger the CEL, but show in the log as flagged, which may change what the ECM is doing.
Did you figure out how to replay the datalog in Tunerpro as the graphed values? I know EagleMark really liked that function, I personally prefer the spreadsheet, but whatever works for you. I was seeing some lean AND rich areas, what I prefer to do is find someplace you can maintain a specific speed/load on the engine (flat ground initially) to get your BLM's roughed into ~128 under those conditions. As in, start at 25MPH, log, evaluate, change fueling as necessary, retest, once good move up to 35MPH, etc.
I always look for knock counts. If you see knock, and see a lean condition (higher BLM) then you want to look at few rows prior and see where fuel starts to go lean, then fix it. The problem isn't when the knock count registers, it's the brief period leading up to the knock that is the issue. I'm pretty ignorant on the TBI setups, on TPI I'd be looking at AE if it was going lean as I rolled into the throttle. I'd also look at timing, but I don't see it in that datalog.
It's all a dance, I look at TPS, vehicle speed, load, and RPM to determine what the input is from the driver, what the load is, then look at the BLM's and O2 sensor to see what they are telling me before I start messing with fuel and timing. The narrowband O2 is a bit of a hindrance, but as slow as the transfer rate is on this TBI (160 vs 8192 baud on most everything else OBD1 GM) much can change between two cells that you can't see anyway.
I could be wrong, but I *thought* someone had made a tool that would rough in your VE table for MAP. Could be wrong, but I thought there was.
FWIW I attached a random extract from an old TPI datalog to show you what the faster data transfer gets you. You can see there is a lot more resolution. One reason the later TBI ECM's are preferred if you are going to be doing a bunch of tuning.
Thanks for all your help.
I was working with Eaglemark and we were just getting started on this when God needed him more. So now I have the stuff to burn chips and to tune the blazer but very little knowledge on how to adjust the measurements.
I have rehab for my knee and when I'm done there I'll get started on this.
Thanks again
I was working with Eaglemark and we were just getting started on this when God needed him more. So now I have the stuff to burn chips and to tune the blazer but very little knowledge on how to adjust the measurements.
I have rehab for my knee and when I'm done there I'll get started on this.
Thanks again
Thanks for all your help.
I was working with Eaglemark and we were just getting started on this when God needed him more. So now I have the stuff to burn chips and to tune the blazer but very little knowledge on how to adjust the measurements.
I have rehab for my knee and when I'm done there I'll get started on this.
Thanks again
Robert Saar still hangs out on gearhead-efi.com I believe, have you talked with him or the folks over there? Saw his name on the ADX for TBI I used last night. I work on this in spurts, so much of it is rediscovery for me. Some of the guys out there know it inside and out, like EagleMark did.
I've done a lot of research at gearhead too. There are so many dead ends to the links that are given for help on tuning the TBI. It seems like it is becoming more of a dying art. I read a lot where at the end of the thread it says "will update as new things arise". It usually is dated about 3 years ago for the last update which is pretty much where it started. The last thing Mark told me was that my VE tables could use some touch up. I understand what you and Mark are saying about changing the fueling, I just don't know where to start changing it or where do I pull this up to make a change, etc.......
I will also start asking over at gearhead and see if Robert can lend a hand also.
I will also start asking over at gearhead and see if Robert can lend a hand also.
Honestly the LS engines I think are the main driver to killing OBD1 tuning. There isn't a whole lot of point in continuing to run these gen 1 engines (and corresponding OBD1 EFI) to the people who like having the latest tech. The LS engines are better, but for me, I've got enough money and time invested in the old stuff, and I drive it so infrequently, I'm not going to change now.
I see the same thing, not a whole lot of help left online.
For MAP I'm pretty sure you find the VE cell that corresponds to where you are rich or lean, and increase/decrease that value to change fueling. But that's where the differences in the programming comes into play...cruise is very easy (relatively) as in closed loop cruise, you aren't dealing with any of the additional timing or fueling that comes from the parameters that start to affect everything else.
What chip burning stuff do you have? Can you emulate? That makes it easier for sure. I'd play with cruise settings a bit. Drive a short stretch of road where you can log cruise accurately, find where your BLM's are off, make the change that should bring BLM's closer (start small!) then drive the exact stretch again while logging. You should see the numbers getting closer to 128 if you are making the right changes, in the right area.
I see the same thing, not a whole lot of help left online.
For MAP I'm pretty sure you find the VE cell that corresponds to where you are rich or lean, and increase/decrease that value to change fueling. But that's where the differences in the programming comes into play...cruise is very easy (relatively) as in closed loop cruise, you aren't dealing with any of the additional timing or fueling that comes from the parameters that start to affect everything else.
What chip burning stuff do you have? Can you emulate? That makes it easier for sure. I'd play with cruise settings a bit. Drive a short stretch of road where you can log cruise accurately, find where your BLM's are off, make the change that should bring BLM's closer (start small!) then drive the exact stretch again while logging. You should see the numbers getting closer to 128 if you are making the right changes, in the right area.
This right here........I don't mind the new tech. I'll probably do the LS engine swap, in the future, but not until my current motor is dead. It's got 27,000 miles on it and I'm wanting to learn how to tune it, make it run at its best and have fun. I'm old school and always will be. But I do like to learn. I'm betting that when I do learn how to tune my blazer that it will help me with tuning the newer stuff like my wife's Z71. I also know it takes time. No hurry here.
My set up:
I have the Moates Burn2 chip programmer, 3 of the 27SF512 chips, G2 adapter that I soldered to an ECM, and using Tunerpro RT.
I've been chasing a very light idle issue for some time and have been finding things that needed attention. While doing all this I wanted to take the EGR out of the equation and burned a chip for it. That didn't seem to make a difference so I put in the stock chip that I burned also. I still have the stock ECM and chip ready to go in case the new stuff failed. So far so good. The idle issue is gone but I still need to tune the truck for the small upgrades (CFM tech TBI, large spacer, salad bowl and upped the fuel pressure.
Going to be fun I can tell, but worth it in the long run.
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It's not too bad swapping chips for burning, but if you can justify it to yourself, APU1 sure makes things nice http://www.moates.net/apu1-autoprom-package-usb-version-p-54.html?cPath=95 Long story short, ribbon cable goes to your G2, APU1 hooks up to ALDL and laptop, you make changes to the bin on laptop, hit a button, and the truck is running on your new bin. No chip burning necessary until you get everything where you want it, then burn the chip.
It's a lot of work nailing everything down "just right". I've found that cold start and the time from there until it goes closed loop are the hardest to tune, as you really only get a shot or two a day at it (and ambient temp comes into play as well) and also hot restart depending on engine temp. That ones a bit easier to tune for though.
It's a lot of work nailing everything down "just right". I've found that cold start and the time from there until it goes closed loop are the hardest to tune, as you really only get a shot or two a day at it (and ambient temp comes into play as well) and also hot restart depending on engine temp. That ones a bit easier to tune for though.
