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Ball Joint Removal?? Success with re-assembled photos now!

What is it you'd like to know.

There is doe info in this thread

83 K5 sloppy steering with videos

I have had the K5 for almost 10 years and put about 1,000 miles on it. Odometer says 62,205 (but could be 162,205). V8 305 4WD. Power Steering. when I first got the truck, it’s steering was all over the place. Excessive play (I think that is the right word) in the steering wheel with no...
ck5.com ck5.com

I just did mine, I can help with questions, have a few pictures
 
Wes Harden said:
What is it you'd like to know.

There is doe info in this thread

83 K5 sloppy steering with videos

I have had the K5 for almost 10 years and put about 1,000 miles on it. Odometer says 62,205 (but could be 162,205). V8 305 4WD. Power Steering. when I first got the truck, it’s steering was all over the place. Excessive play (I think that is the right word) in the steering wheel with no...
ck5.com ck5.com

I just did mine, I can help with questions, have a few pictures
Click to expand...
I bought a true GM shop manual. Just wanted essentially a How To, Step by Step. I have never owned a straight a clue vehicle. Essentially want to take the axle off, clean it, POR15 it and rebuild it.
 
Are you contemplating ring and pinion bearings, and inner axle seals?

The ball joints are easy enough a couple special tools. Hub nut tool you should buy and have for wheel bearing service, the upper ball joint sleeve spanner socket might be able to rent, or make out of a socket.
The ball joint press you should be able to rent at Autozone or O'Reilly.
 
Wes Harden said:
Are you contemplating ring and pinion bearings, and inner axle seals?

The ball joints are easy enough a couple special tools. Hub nut tool you should buy and have for wheel bearing service, the upper ball joint sleeve spanner socket might be able to rent, or make out of a socket.
The ball joint press you should be able to rent at Autozone or O'Reilly.
Click to expand...
No I dont plan to change anything there. Need to find the amazon links to these tools you mention. I imagine I will be doing my Dads 1985 next, so i wouldnt mind owning these tools. Mine is also a 1985 K5.

Plan to do: U Joints (Spicer 5-760X), Balljoints (Mevotech replacements), Steering ends (Mevotech replacements), fluid change (need to figure out what fluid) and clean and paint. Probably wouldnt hurt to do new wheel bearings and brakes. Just get it all done at once.
 
yeah Impact is not needed. Loosen the lower ball joint allow the knuckle to drop down a little. you should be able to screw the bushing out.

Next attempt, thread upper bushing in a few threads, tighten lower ball joint nut to 80ft pd, then using a torque wrench tighen the upper ball joint bushing to 50 ft pd, torque the upper ball joint nut down to 140 ft pd. Each knuckle should rotate with less than 26 ft pd on a spring scale.
 
Wes Harden said:
yeah Impact is not needed. Loosen the lower ball joint allow the knuckle to drop down a little. you should be able to screw the bushing out.

Next attempt, thread upper bushing in a few threads, tighten lower ball joint nut to 80ft pd, then using a torque wrench tighen the upper ball joint bushing to 50 ft pd, torque the upper ball joint nut down to 140 ft pd. Each knuckle should rotate with less than 26 ft pd on a spring scale.
Click to expand...
So do I need to unscrew the bushing first? Then extract?
 
If you can unscrew it. I am not sure what you asking by extract. Are you saying the tool is stuck in the knuckle ?
 
Wes Harden said:
If you can unscrew it. I am not sure what you asking by extract. Are you saying the tool is stuck in the knuckle ?
Click to expand...
No I put the ball joint sleeve socket in to loosen the upper BJ to release preload. I couldn’t do it by hand and tried to pop it with the impact. Do I need to pull the BJ first, then take the sleeve out?
 
I better understand, I think you are still tearing down. Remove the bottom nut completely, and the upper castle nut about half. Get a 30+ oz steel hammer, and wack the crap out the "C" were the ball joint stem goes through. This will shock the tapers loose, and the knuckle will drop, being held by the top nut. Undo the top nut and remove knuckle. Then you can remove the upper ball joint sleeve.
 
Wes Harden said:
I better understand, I think you are still tearing down. Remove the bottom nut completely, and the upper castle nut about half. Get a 30+ oz steel hammer, and wack the crap out the "C" were the ball joint stem goes through. This will shock the tapers loose, and the knuckle will drop, being held by the top nut. Undo the top nut and remove knuckle. Then you can remove the upper ball joint sleeve.
Click to expand...
 
Well I had a video showing how and where to hit the C I must have deleted it.
I will try an explain how I do it.
Looking at the video turn the knuckle so the steering arm is pointed to the center of the truck. Using a heavy steel hammer, stand next to the knuckle and hit the lower C from the back at the flat where the BJ stud goes through. Some light penetrate oil on the stud will help(wd40 is not penetrate oil).

This picture is of a pitman arm, but it works the same. This is the desired place to shock the ball stud loose. Also that is my go to hammer to use for this task. I have never failed to shock a ball stud loose. On occasion I have had to add pressure with a pry bar while smacking the crap outta it.

-1844025347106615319.jpg
 
Wes Harden said:
Well I had a video showing how and where to hit the C I must have deleted it.
I will try an explain how I do it.
Looking at the video turn the knuckle so the steering arm is pointed to the center of the truck. Using a heavy steel hammer, stand next to the knuckle and hit the lower C from the back at the flat where the BJ stud goes through. Some light penetrate oil on the stud will help(wd40 is not penetrate oil).

This picture is of a pitman arm, but it works the same. This is the desired place to shock the ball stud loose. Also that is my go to hammer to use for this task. I have never failed to shock a ball stud loose. On occasion I have had to add pressure with a pry bar while smacking the crap outta it.

View attachment 455705
Click to expand...
Thanks, you hit the top or the bottom of the “C”?
 
Put a torch to it, been hitting the crap out of it and nothing is happening
 
normally the bottom stud is the stuck 1. That hammer is plenty big, the face may be hard to get a good firm strike. I am guessing you are right handed. If so stand next to knuckle, facing the rear of the truck, hammer in right hand at end of handle and hit the lower c at lower ball stud, a big and hard of swing as you can accurately manage. If you have a buddy or older child, you can have them use a pry bar. Pushing down on knuckle using the upper part of the C, while you strike the lower. Once you do it you'll see what is needed to do the other side.
I am not a fan of pickle forks, but if you have one and are replacing the the ball joints any way, it can also be used to to pressure down. Like a wedge.
 
Here's the only I have a pic of doing bottom. Just need to use the best fitting adapters. Remove the lower then the upper, install upper then the lower.

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When you get some pressure on the screw, tap around the ball joint on the knuckle, use a smaller hammer. I did this job w/o using an impact only a 7/8 box end wrench. Wire brushing the dirty part and a little penetrate oil will easy this part greatly.
 
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