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Basic hello, and showing my starting point (new update) pg 3

Looking good so far--wish my '85 Burb had barn doors...they are SO much better than a crappy rotted tailgate with a electric window you pray goes up every time you lower it!..

When I bought a decent pair of barn doors from a junkyard and got them home,and found out GM decided to change the body after 1979 so you cant just bolt them on anymore,I was pretty bummed out..:doah:
I was tempted to just weld the hinges on--but the floor is different too,and I wasn't about to get that involved making them work..luckily they took them back and refunded my money,most of the time they tell you TS,and your stuck with any parts you bought that dont fit!..
 
cyclic said:
Got a bunch of work done.........................

Superlift 2.5 front springs and u bolt kit from Summitracing
sway bar pivots from Zone Offroad
TNA front spring shackles
DIY4x greasable bolts
rear spring shackle flip from TNA
front lifted modular winch mount also from TNA
fang removal
Monroe shocks (31131 for rear and 33084 on the front, just had to change bushings)
17x8 steel rims rocking 265/70R17 take off tires


yv1l.jpg


mpck.jpg


xh2m.jpg
Click to expand...

Sway bar pivots? I wanna see some pics. Those shackle flip brackets are freakin beefy, nice! Is your shackle a little bent?
 
The issue with the sway bar is it binds with spring movement. For off road you'll remove the sway bar, for all around performance I recommend either the ORD disconnect kit or the Zone off road link kit. I went with the links as I will go off road but my primary use is day to day driving. http://zoneoffroad.com/suspension-parts_sway-bar-links_fixed

TNA did a great job on those shackle flips, absolutely love them. I came up with a little trick to NOT having to drop the tank to install them. Obviously first remove the stock ones. Next up are the under frame bolts, you can reach and place the bolt plates, line it up and start the bottom bolts without moving anything. I then removed my rear bumper, and electrical taped the side bolt plates to a 36 inch aluminum ruler. Ran it up inside the frame and started the front bolt. Twisted and pulled out the ruler. Then used the ruler to lift and line up the back bolt. Repeat for lower bolt plate and tighten it all up. The shackles are straight (tough I will get some heavy duty ones in the future), it's just the pic angle and shackle angle combine to look horrible. I did greasable bolts for the entire front and up-size the front shackle ones at the same time, figured with the new front heavy shackles (TNA also) I'd do it all at one time and be done with it. Bolts are from DIY4x, and had to get some thin wall tubing to fit the upper shackle bolt/bushing combo.
 
That was one hell of a ~14 month update haha

Can I get a picture of your rear shackle angle, from the side? Seems rather laid back. You might benefit from moving the bolt back a hole, making it a little more vertical. Better ride and less saggy butt. (Though Burbs always have saggy butt) :D

Just a thought anyway. Get some urban curban pics! :)
 
Yeah, I do plan to bring the shackle back a little. Didn't know how it would sit till it was all installed. I'm going to add the weight for the front bumper/guard and winch, and do the rear bumper before I decide on final shackle angle. Also in the equation is if I add a zero rate block to the rear to get the back side up some. I'm fairly sure I need to shim the rear to get rid of a little vibe @ 60-75 mph. I try to do things in blocks of labor, takes awhile to gather all the stuff for each "stage", then the install goes fast and correctly. I did the complete front and rear lift in my driveway in about 6 hours total. Hardest part was getting the old brackets off.
 
Little update, got the TNA brackets installed and welded up about 75% of the new rear bumper. I plan to add a 3 inch strip along the front edge and to outsides to better fit it to the body.

The brackets for a K5 which TNA made me two inches longer.............

Ef0fmD_zps4h5t1aie.jpg


vfnAEi_zpsegigfuxl.jpg


I drilled the burb frame to match the K5 bolt pattern,

here's a quicky google sketch-up of my design...............

9Tz1lq_zps7yhuu8ok.jpg


And the bumper as it currently sits.................

u3zmLR_zpsgrsyfwsj.jpg
 
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TNA is a member/vendor on here who makes shackles,winch mounts and other cool parts. Go to vendor section and look for any of his posting.
 
Figured I'd post an update here...................
Been doing updates in my brake upgrade thread (and I will keep up with it also) but this should go here.

I made a switch panel into my factory center console.
IMAG0619_zps1cwfdrjt.jpg


Cut the center cup and pockets out, made an ABS panel to fill it in, and then put an 6 switch marine ebay panel into the ABS. I also removed the circuit breakers, and cut the area to install another switch. I have room for one or two more horizontal switches in the top part.
Plans for the switches are a little different. I plan to use the bottom four on the right to control my power windows and the horizontal for my power door locks. The current switch work ok, but I'd rather have them centralized and pull some of the long wires out. I'll replace the right bottom four with the correct MOM switches like I'm using for the door locks. The left two switches will be for LED front lighting, and a horizontal momentary will control a set of air horns. If you had access to the right tools (water jet, cnc, ect), you would have no problem making a two row by six switch panel fit into the opening.
I'm adding a pair of deep big cup holders to the front of the console to replace the ones I removed. Switches will run to relays.
 
Can you give some info on that rear bumper? That's exactly what im wanting to build. Material used and maybe some measurements on the angled cuts. I'll have to check out those TNA mounts. Why 2" longer?
 
I had him lengthen the shackle mount portion as I wanted it to continue through the bumper and be welded front and rear. Makes the bumper stronger, and the shackle mounts bulletproof. The TNA mounts also came with some doublers that go on the end to give you some shackle mount thickness.

It's your basic 2x6 tubing, I left the ends long and did the capping afterward. I did some very careful measuring and cutting to do it, but I will say it would have actually been easier to do the cuts then use a new piece to do the fill in angles. Relief cutting and folding the metal was an absolute PITA.

Easiest way to build a bumper starting with the TNA mounts:
1) bolt up the mounts and make sure they have even height.
2) cut a 2x6 tube long and notch out for the shackle parts.
3) weld the tubing to the mounts and weld up the doublers at the same time. (you now habe a basic and functional bumper)
4) figure out how high you want the bumper ends to be and cut diagonally on the inside face.
5) the tapering is the tricky stuff, for a simple no angle face just pie cut on the bottom to the ends, fold them up and weld it up. Cap as required.

when we build my buddies matching bumper I'll take far more pics and post up some measurements to help you with yours. But it's going to be a while, his is still having work done at a shop.
 
Cyclic- thanks for the info! I was looking on the TNA website, but didn't see the bumper brackets. I guess I'll give them a shout.

I'll be following the build. Looking good so far:saweet:
 
Just want to say thanks Cyclic for your help in sharing your lift info.

John
 
I really like what you did with the switches in the console. I've been pondering where mine will be the past couple of weeks. I need to sit down and put my mental notes on paper.
 
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