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Battery relocation question

Smokinthehippies

Smokinthehippies

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So I made a strong box to re locate my battery, but my question comes on adding electrical accessories like lights or a winch.
Is there a way to leave a live power feed somewhere in the engine compartment that's easier to reach instead of running power all the way back under the cab? I just don't want to have a short/ power sapping problem

Thanks-!
 
Should be simple. Just watch your wiring to make sure that it will not chafe, get cut or pinched.
When I have run a heavy cable to the back for a lift gate or winch, I ran it in heavy PVC.

When I mentioned that in an earlier thread, someone had a problem with that that I had not run into.
I cannot remember what it was now. I may find it tomorrow, or they might chip in here later.
The only other problem, is what are you wanting to be able to run.
If you want to maybe someday add lights, fan, things like that, then you can run a heavy piece of wire.
Say 4 gauge or so.

But, if you want to be able to add a winch, or jump the truck off. Or other trucks, then you need to run a piece of heavy cable.

I would go with 2 gauge or better. Run it from the battery to somewhere under the hood, making sure the cable is secure and safe, and then hook it to some kind of thick copper bussbar.

There have been a few posted here before.
Maybe a piece of thick solid square stock drilled and tapped for several screws.
Mounted in some kind of thick rubber or Lexan plastic.
I'm sure someone will post some pics later.
 
You could instal a winch and just run the battery cable to it and use the stud on the winch as your remote hot lead for lights and accessories .
 
I personally would run 2/0 cable to one of these connectors http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ANDERSON-POWER-PRODUCTS-WireCable-Connector-3BY26?Pid=search and then hook your winch to it with the mating connector. I would also install a large cut off switch between the battery and the cable so you could switch the power off until needed. I would also recommend you use 2/0 WELDING cable since the run will be long and welding cable has many fine strands of copper which helps to reduce the amount of resistance.

If you do this and run this wire up to the bumper you could also make a nice set of jumper cables like the tow trucks use and just plug into the front of the truck and turn your switch on and be ready to jump with it.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I personally would run 2/0 cable to one of these connectors http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ANDERSON-POWER-PRODUCTS-WireCable-Connector-3BY26?Pid=search and then hook your winch to it with the mating connector. I would also install a large cut off switch between the battery and the cable so you could switch the power off until needed. I would also recommend you use 2/0 WELDING cable since the run will be long and welding cable has many fine strands of copper which helps to reduce the amount of resistance.

If you do this and run this wire up to the bumper you could also make a nice set of jumper cables like the tow trucks use and just plug into the front of the truck and turn your switch on and be ready to jump with it.
Click to expand...

Beat me to it with every detail.
That's what I would do and have all the parts already.
Welding cable is the only thing I use in Automotive anyway, the others are not only higher resistance but brittle too, and our trucks get a lot of vibration.
 
power dist stud with 8 outlet ports. http://12voltguy.com/web/index.php?...category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=43

big master power switch http://12voltguy.com/web/index.php?...ategory_id=17&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=43

here is the power dist stud next to my tape measure for size refrence.

also added a cirkit breaker with test button and manual reset lever so if need be i can turn off the power to the extra stuff i have in the cab. or if wire happens to get in contact with metal. http://www.delcity.net/store/Hi-Amp-Surface-Mount-!-Manual-Reset-(Switchable)/p_193073.a_1

POWER STUDS 001.jpg
 
tho it's far superior to car part store grade battery cable, welding cable isn't ideal in cars... it does NOT like oil, salt, etc... if it can stay dry, the performance gain is nice...

but if we're giving out "the bests", tinned marine wire dogs welding cable... same wire counts, but it's tinned, etc... I've seen it tons of times in the boats.... somebody will do welding cable in there boat, all black of course, :rolleyes: yeah, looks great, works real nice, flexible, routed well, than a yr down the road when it's been exposed to oilly bilge water, they turn into a bloated mess...

marine wire doesn't, but it certainly isn't the cheapest option... but it's superiority is sometimes desired...


Hippie... I have no clue what your intentions are... I'm guessing the battery is getting moved to the back or something... :confused: but there are tons of ways to do this... power post, lead from the starter to a buss, a plug such as Scott posted, etc...
 
I guess you learn something every day.
Well for my truck, that is not an issue but you are right it could be depending on the application, good to know that tid bit.
:waytogo:
ryoken said:
tho it's far superior to car part store grade battery cable, welding cable isn't ideal in cars... it does NOT like oil, salt, etc... if it can stay dry, the performance gain is nice...

but if we're giving out "the bests", tinned marine wire dogs welding cable... same wire counts, but it's tinned, etc... I've seen it tons of times in the boats.... somebody will do welding cable in there boat, all black of course, :rolleyes: yeah, looks great, works real nice, flexible, routed well, than a yr down the road when it's been exposed to oilly bilge water, they turn into a bloated mess...

marine wire doesn't, but it certainly isn't the cheapest option... but it's superiority is sometimes desired...


Hippie... I have no clue what your intentions are... I'm guessing the battery is getting moved to the back or something... :confused: but there are tons of ways to do this... power post, lead from the starter to a buss, a plug such as Scott posted, etc...
Click to expand...
 
sweetk30 said:
power dist stud with 8 outlet ports. http://12voltguy.com/web/index.php?...category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=43

big master power switch http://12voltguy.com/web/index.php?...ategory_id=17&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=43

here is the power dist stud next to my tape measure for size refrence.

also added a cirkit breaker with test button and manual reset lever so if need be i can turn off the power to the extra stuff i have in the cab. or if wire happens to get in contact with metal. http://www.delcity.net/store/Hi-Amp-Surface-Mount-!-Manual-Reset-(Switchable)/p_193073.a_1
Click to expand...


I've got you guys trained well.... :haha:
 
imiceman44 said:
I guess you learn something every day.
Well for my truck, that is not an issue but you are right it could be depending on the application, good to know that tid bit.
:waytogo:
Click to expand...

yeah, it's one of those things where your good the majority of the time, i ran welding cable often back in the day with alot of Mopars, etc, and it is a nice performance gain across the board, even in it's durabilty, but it is pretty subsceptable to that one issue... pretty rare in cars, but it does happen... I had it in one of my Chevelles that was a leaker and the last foot or so of it got funky...
 
That guy's stuff it pretty cool. I like the winch panel, although for $40+ i'll probably fab up my own (won't be nearly as cool though). What's with the estimated ship times? Is he custom making every order? how long did it take to get your stuff?
 
12volt builds some cool stuff.. i think a lot is built to order.... his stuff is in a ton of rigs... I'm very jealous of the engraving capabilities....
 
Yeah I'm mOving it back to the cargo area in a tool box.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Keep it coming. Wiring isn't my strong point so I'm leaning alot here
 
I plan to add some quick disconnects to my truck soon. I also plan to run some wire to the back of the truck so I can move my winch front or back.

I have access to some pre-built "jumpers" from 2' to 4-5'. Some are double ended and some have the battery ring on them.

cid_898.jpg


I know this isnt the place, but id probably be able to let some go for the right compensation. lol. Id just have to put a price on them and post em in the correct section. But would only do so if there was interest.

These are rated up to 600v and over 30amps. We use them to tie 3 batteries together for back-up in our system.
 
I'm very jealous of the engraving capabilities....
Click to expand...

Bet he has got a small CNC lath with a canned lettering function.

They had one at a tool and die shop I used to consult for.
They had had that Deckle machine for a while, but when they wanted to label steel stuff, they either stamped or bought labels.

One day the operator was fooling around with the display, and found a screen he had not known about.
It was an engraving screen with fonts and options.
You just selected the tool, gave it the depth and the usual stuff about speeds and feeds, and typed out what you wanted it to engrave.

Things started looking real good after that.

I'm sure that is commonplace now, but it was unusual back then.
 
badmix said:
I plan to add some quick disconnects to my truck soon. I also plan to run some wire to the back of the truck so I can move my winch front or back.

I have access to some pre-built "jumpers" from 2' to 4-5'. Some are double ended and some have the battery ring on them.

cid_898.jpg


I know this isnt the place, but id probably be able to let some go for the right compensation. lol. Id just have to put a price on them and post em in the correct section. But would only do so if there was interest.

These are rated up to 600v and over 30amps. We use them to tie 3 batteries together for back-up in our system.
Click to expand...

For the love of god, PLEASE tell me you plan to run a MUCH THICKER wire than that for a rear mounted winch. :deal: Depending on what winch you have at full line pull they will draw over 400 amps.
 
ok to drag this back to the surface.
i did just a super basic "trunk relocate" kit that i got done the day before a trip out in may.
its time to redo it since the cable slipped onto the header, melted and caught fire. but thats not the main reason.


i'm pulling out my headers so i'm going to use that oppertunity to rewire the battery to starter to be ready for the long run.

the way i have it in my head is battery to a switch
like so, http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74100/10002/-1

switch to a distribution block
(link for 12volt no longer works, but i'm sure i could get one from him)

from block to starter,

and i plan to add jumper terminals in the rear cargo area, would i run those directly to the battery, or thru the distribution block? i'm thinking direct but then it wouldnt be cut off by the battery disco switch which could lead to a short???
 
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