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Battery setups. Lets see what you have done

BlitzK5

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Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada
Anyone got some good write ups on different ways to setup your battery's. such as hooking your battery's up in parallel or with a isolator, Gauge of wire to use etc..etc..etc. Diagrams would be very helpful.
 
I just did this, about 20 minutes ago. I got the kit from 12voltguy.com. came with some good directions, and a switch so I can turn the 2nd on and off.
 
I dont have any pics yet...

I have just 2 duralast gold 1000ca batteries under the hood in parallel. battery trays on each wheel well.. from a diesel...


they hookup to a battery isolator (90a) which is good enough and since I got it new for $10.....

then I ran a 10gauge wire to the bed of my truck....
to which I used a old street sign to cut up and weld for a dual battery hold down...
in there are 2 dump truck batteries... 1300ca each... each one is the size of 2 normal batteries!!!! :wink1:
my plans are to run the dual batteries in the bed for the patriot 15000 winch in the back and use the dual duralasts for the "Truck"
that is why the 90a isolator and 63a stock alt will work... may upgrade the alt eventually to a 80a but we will see....


dualbatteries2.jpg
 
dontoe said:
The way I setup my '75.


DSC_1611.sized.jpg



DSC_1613.sized.jpg

that is a slick setup.. I actually mounted mine on the fender well.. may have to relocate it up like you did..that is sharp.....


also are you running parallel on 2 different types of batteries?
I was told that isnt a good thing to do as one will not charge all the way or something like that.... dunno
 
also are you running parallel on 2 different types of batteries?
I was told that isnt a good thing to do as one will not charge all the way or something like that.... dunno __________________

The red top runs every thing like a one battery setup. The blue deep cycle spiral wound (like Optima ones) just runs the winch. The isolator on the firewall charges the main (red one) first then the blue. Works great and I've used this setup since around 1993 with nary a problem.
I made the aux battery tray, but you can get them from Chevy/GMC trucks with the dual battery option.

My Suburban I just bought last month came with two batteries connected in parallel. It worked the alternator hard all the time trying to run the A/C and lights and try to charge both batteries at the same time. I unhooked the axillary battery until I get an isolator for the Sub.
 
gotcha for some reason I thought you said they were in parallel form.... but yeah I see the isolator.... duhhh me....

Clean wire install too... mine is crappy and going to get redone correctly...I bought 100' of wire loom and already used a mess of it so gonna have to buy a new box soon!!!! :wink1:
 
dontoe said:
The way I setup my '75.


Battery_cables.sized.jpg

I like you're setup. Nice & Clean. I would recommend that you move these connections to the top posts. I've heard of them breaking loose internally in a vibration intensive environment, then they are no good. It's fine to use them for small accessory type connections, but you don't want a big cable hanging off of them.

Just so you know.

Later,
Buddy
 
I have a painless swiring set-up. It comes w/ the directions, so I will not go into that, here is 2 pics though.

battery_isolater.jpg



battery_tail_gate-up.jpg
 
BGKYK5 said:
Do I see a brass pipe union in there as a spacer?

No..........they're brass terminals. Makes it so much easier to jump start it if I need to............:wink1:
 
Here is my junk, 120 amp isolater, 80's olds 90 amp alternater, dual batterys for the winch and a single for the truck. all of my aux. stuff will be ran off the double batery setup when i install my second fuse block. i made the trays out of angle and some flat stock after i collapsed the o.e ones jumping the truck.

DSCN2271.JPG

DSCN2272.JPG
 
RootBreaker said:
I dont have any pics yet...

I have just 2 duralast gold 1000ca batteries under the hood in parallel. battery trays on each wheel well.. from a diesel...


they hookup to a battery isolator (90a) which is good enough and since I got it new for $10.....

then I ran a 10gauge wire to the bed of my truck....
to which I used a old street sign to cut up and weld for a dual battery hold down...
in there are 2 dump truck batteries... 1300ca each... each one is the size of 2 normal batteries!!!! :wink1:
my plans are to run the dual batteries in the bed for the patriot 15000 winch in the back and use the dual duralasts for the "Truck"
that is why the 90a isolator and 63a stock alt will work... may upgrade the alt eventually to a 80a but we will see....


dualbatteries2.jpg

Those are 8D's....
 
'85 Burb, with SMC350.
Simple, I copied the factory Diesel schematic. Bought the tray and cables from LMC.
Also f$$d solenoid, and extra grounds engine/frame/batts,etc.
Starts now.:D
Edit; gonna copy the Diesel set-up for my '07 as well.
 
8D is the size... group #...

how good they are depends on brand and condition..

Heavy SOB's eh? :haha: I musta installed 50 of those in the last 2 months.. You should feel how heavy the gel versions are! :eek1: :doah:

cars generally have group 24's... mine are 27's... 31 is another common size...



plexi1.JPG
 
I was told they were 1300ca each and 395 reserve minutes


so what does reserve minutes do?
I have 2x1000ca duralast golds under the hood that are
1000ca
195 reserve minutes

just shy on reserve minutes of just 1 of the biggins...

newer pic of in bed dual battery hookup...
dualbatts2.jpg

closer up...
you can see that I still need to hook my winch to the left side of each connector....
dual-batts.jpg
 
Your smaller batteries are closer in cell construction to a cranking battery... The 8D's are much closer to a solid cell deep cycle construction, they are more than likely advertised as deep cycle...

This cell difference is the reason for your higher reserve capacity.. And, it's exactly what you think it is... It's the number of minutes a battery can maintain voltage while drawing 25 amps..

Whats the 10 g red, charge wire?
 

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