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BBC guys.....what headers? stock 6qt. truck pan depth?

Ned Kelly said:
Nice price of $325 for uncoated pieces. I checked the website but could not find flange thickness or material gauge - any info on that? Have you installed yours yet?
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I found it on their site -

Header plates are 3/8" thick, except stainless steel which is 5/8"
Primary tubes and collector are 16-guage
3-bolt weld-on mating flange is 16-guage
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The Sanderson's have a patented design on the flange that's supposed to be gasketless, rtv only.

I haven't installed them yet, I want to crank/break in the motor on old headers and then install the shorties.
 
mnstrburbon said:
I went with Doug's header's ceramic coated paid 350.oo for them lifetime warranty on coating and headers i believe. 2 years old have not changed any of the gaskets and there are no leaks. I had to trim the frame on the pass about a 1/4 to 1/2 and 2 inches long for one tube but if you run kirts motor mounts i think they would clear. You can see where it hit the heder and left a little crease this was from the motor bouncing down and flexing in the stock soft motor mounts. I think kirts would solve this problem i have not upgraded them yet.

If you check my build on the first page i have some pics of the motor and headers going in.
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mnstr, this build is the one in the Suburban section?

I saw the couple pics in there, but didn't get a real feel as how they were installed....I gotta take your word that they would fit good with Kert's mounts, as that is the setup I have, except with the stock crossmember. I will wait til I get the drivetrain in, before I decide, as I'll take some measurements of my set up with the box kit in mind also.
I really don't want to hack the frame to make something fit. And I really like the room the Sandersons will leave down low, and they have a great Rep in the streetrod crowd.
I appreciate the input on this guys, keep it coming if you can.
I've made a lot of decisions based on the members experiences here, for that I'm grateful. I wish this internet stuff was as prevalent 20 years ago, when I was building my Vette.
 
I've got the hooker comps, fit perfect, even cleared the HD front shackles with the bolts sticking through slightly so the zerk is on the outside for easy access.

My engine machinist said the bigger tubes weren't worth it unless you are a mud racer and can hold the RPM within 100 - 200 of peak hp the whole time. He said he only gained 10 - 15 hp at a very small RPM at peak and the rest of the curve was the same or better with the 1 3/4 tubes, and that was at the 600 hp level.

engine DS.jpg

engine PS.jpg
 
nice shot.....they look good, how is it by the collector. I have my doubler t/c clocked up 2"....so it would be like a 203 output. think that would be an issue through susp. movement?

thanks for posting the pics.
 
folkenheath said:
I've got the hooker comps, fit perfect, even cleared the HD front shackles with the bolts sticking through slightly so the zerk is on the outside for easy access.
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Folkenheath,
Great pics. Do you have the part number for those headers you used? How do you find the 5/16" flange thickness? No problems sealing? Oil filter in stock location? How is starter access/removal with headers on? Thanks for any info.
 
I have those same headers, I posted the part number in post 3, You can get to the starter no problem. I installed the headers with the oil filter installed, and they didn't leak on me and they were in my truck for a long time...
 
Thanks Onetonbb74. I didn't realize those were the same. I'll have to price these out at SummitRacing. Seems to be a few choices but maybe these ones may be the ticket. Thanks for the starter and oil filter note also.

Edit: Just checked the link you gave - nice price at $229. I'll be running it with a TH400 so have to pay attention to this note:
121 - Will not fit Turbo 400 unless trans crossmember is set back 2 in. at the mount
 
sounds like bs to me, I had it originally w/ a th400/203 combo...But the th400 installs on the rear crossmember holes stock.
 
As bb74 states, they fit great, and I have them currently with a TH400, no clearance issues at all there.

Also, I had the same experience as him, you can remove the starter no problem, (reinstalling the wires on the solenoid is kind of a PITA, but you can do it). However, during header install you do have to remove the front driveshaft and the starter. The drivers side just drops right in without a hitch, and I use the long PF1218 filter.

Also, the collector cleared everything great for me. Even the thicker HD shackles with bolts sticking out. The DS tucks up in nicely and clears everything. I am not sure on the clocking of the t-case though. I have a stock TH400/205 combo, so I guess I could crawl under and imagine the 205 another 6 or 8 inches back, and up 2 inches?

I would definitely buy these headers again.
 
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What years are your trucks? I'll be doing this to a 1988 Suburban (454/th400/205/D60/14ff). I just noticed Hooker has a different part number listed for my application - and double the price.:doah:
 
If your burb is a factory solid axle 88 burb then I think they would fit fine, they probably have a typo since trucks switched to IFS in 88, but burbs didn't is my guess.
 
How big of an oil pan can you run with those Hookers?
 
I ran a 5 quart on mine.
 
I'm running the factory 7 quart pan with Hedmans. Everything clears fine.
 
what is the depth of the truck 6qt. pan? Maybe I already have one.
 
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