BBC Serpentine and Radiator?

[POORBOYK5]

I know they're not the easiest to find.... but it appears that the serp kit that Gm Performance parts offers for big $$ is very similar if not the same to the 93-95 factory big block brackets. They're the cast aluminum style not the stamped steel like the 88-91 serp set up. I've been looking into getting brackets my self and its what I've come up with... I'll be hitting up the salvage yards this coming week. I'll post up my finds

 

[fmstruck]

I know they're not the easiest to find.... but it appears that the serp kit that Gm Performance parts offers for big $$ is very similar if not the same to the 93-95 factory big block brackets. They're the cast aluminum style not the stamped steel like the 88-91 serp set up. I've been looking into getting brackets my self and its what I've come up with... I'll be hitting up the salvage yards this coming week. I'll post up my finds

While the GM Performance kit looks like a ton of money, you have to remember it comes with a new A/C Compressor, P.S. Pump, Water Pump (I think), Alternator, Pulleys, Belt and Bolts.

 

[nvrenuf]

While the GM Performance kit looks like a ton of money, you have to remember it comes with a new A/C Compressor, P.S. Pump, Water Pump (I think), Alternator, Pulleys, Belt and Bolts.

Exactly

 

[POORBOYK5]

I understand your point. I guess I was just throwing it out there for the long Term "budget" builders such as myself, who have the time to hunt the brackets down.. In my case I have all the accys already from the small block I removed. only other parts I need are the rev/rot water pump and crank pulley

 

[Mikey von]

Here are some I found will looking at CL today. These are in Nor Cali.

http://redding.craigslist.org/pts/1385701238.html

 

[dirtbag7]

One thing I found, which has apready been stated, as I started "piecing together" the drive kit, I would ahve ended up spending up almost as much if not more than the pre-built kit, and it was not worth the hassele. I ended up taking everything back and ordered the kit (less air) and do not regret it one bit!!! I do understand the budget build part, my baby has been waiting for me to get more moolah... so close...

 

[dirtbag7]

I'm trying to finish the wiring in the engine bay and I've ran into a small snag... On the OLD alternator there was a "charge" wire, and a plug for the ammeter/regulator... I went to a serpentine drive, and the new alternator has a different stlye plug on it... Any help on which wires need to be where?

 

[fmstruck]

Here's the link I used to figure it out. Mine hasn't burned up yet.

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html

 

[dirtbag7]

I only have three wires total... The red wire for "charge" and then two wires already in a connector... yellowish and brownish (its a 74, what can I say? lol) ... They went to the ammeter..

 

[fmstruck]

The large red one obviously goes to the back of the alternator on the stud. You say the other two both come from the ammeter? One should be key on power and the other should be batt. power. The key on power goes to the L terminal and the batt. power goes to the F terminal.

 

[folkenheath]

If you have the CS 130 style and you don't have the stock idiot light make sure you put a resistor in line in the L terminal that goes to the ignition switched 12V source. They don't all need it but you might burn it up if you don't have it. And if you ever have to replace it on the rd then you will be good to go. If you have the idiot light then you're good to go but if the bulb burns out then your alternator may quit charging. Unless your stock setup has a resistor in parallel with the bulb. Also, I used a 470 ohm 1/2 W resistor if I remember correctly, from the "shack". I didn't draw this so I can't take credit... If you do the math you can pick one that will work, but the lower the ohms the higher the wattage rating needs to be. I read anywhere from 35 to 500 ohm will work, just make sure it's the right rating. If you only use 35 ohm it would need to be at least 7 W.