Hey guys, the more i look for wheels, the more im seeing beadlocks as a lot of the options i tend to like, now minus the legal issue, does anyone have experience running them? I don’t want to have to keep track and re-torque my wheels once a month, though i heard that isn’t exactly true, what are the downsides?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Beadlocks on the road
- Thread starter shock88
- Start date
I’ve been running beadlocks on the road for 15yrs, not a daily driver but have not had any issues. Balanced with beads inside the wheel. Had a set of steel eatons at first with tsl SX’s a few leaked over time, I blame the tires. Have new Yokohama’s now on aluminum method beadlocks, zero leaks/issues.
I don’t have a ton of miles on them but I have some unbalanced Trailready’s beadlocks on 40’s and they’re great, no issues with them leaking down or riding bad.
My rims have bolts and lock nuts so I haven’t had any problems with losing torque on the lock ring. If the bolts threaded into the wheel I could see the need to recheck them periodically but that’ll just depend on the design/wheel you choose.
My rims have bolts and lock nuts so I haven’t had any problems with losing torque on the lock ring. If the bolts threaded into the wheel I could see the need to recheck them periodically but that’ll just depend on the design/wheel you choose.
I ran a set of recentered 8 bolt H1’s on the street ( 85 K-5 w/ 36” SS SX’s ) for a couple of years and never had any issues.
Also, I’ve driven NVRENUF’s Blazer and can attest to how good it rides and drives with his bead locks - rides great!
Also, I’ve driven NVRENUF’s Blazer and can attest to how good it rides and drives with his bead locks - rides great!
hmmm all these answers are easing my mind with them, i really appreciate it guys! who knew beadlocks would be the new “wheel of choice” in the offroad/mall crawl community. I come from a time of steel wagon wheels and TSLs were the answer to any problem. Maybe there’s just less of a fear of beadlocks now-a-days. again, thanks!
Ahhh, the days of White Spoke Wagon Wheels and the mighty TSL’s that replaced HAWGS, GUMBO MONSTER MUDDERS, Grand Prix’s and of course Q -BUCKSHOTS as the standard go-to tire options - - it was a simpler time…
Gate's Commandos
ooo man, i bought my first set of dry rotted 38” gumbos for $15 at a swap meet…i was the coolest 16yr old kid i knew….according to me
@AgDieseler does tons of road miles in his burb with beadlock wheels.
I like ‘em. Mine are KMC cast aluminum with 3/4” thick rings. 5 years ago, they were pretty innovative, but today, most of the good beadlocks from raceline and innov8 and others are built that way.
Forged is nice, but too expensive for our type of wheeling (not racing). Cast is a good compromise, and gets away from the old style stamped steel stuff that we think of when we talk about leaks.
Downside: they’re expensive, a little heavy, and tires shops are allergic to them.
Upsides are many, and I’ve not had any problems.
On the high side, I’ve done 12K in a year. I usually drive 65-70 on the highway, but have gone as high as 90. Each trip airs down and up from 5 to 30 about 10-15 times. I’ve rashed the rings pretty good, and everything is still ultra steady, no bad vibes, zero retorques, and tire wear is pretty even for C rated 40s under a 9500 lbs truck.
If you want to air down to single digits, accept no substitutes. But, if you just want to flatten out around 10-12 and you’re not hanging all your weight on one tire on a slick rock ledge, look at bead grips. A few of my friends run them with good results. They seem like a decent value option when you don’t plan to turn your tires into tracks.
David
I’m running unbalanced bias 40’s on method beadlocks on the road. I’ve had them up to 75mph without issues.
Some things from my experience:
the bolts have never loosened up on me for my last two rigs. I’ve run stamped steel beadlocks and I’m currently running cast Methods. The scary part is if water sits in that seam between the wheel and the ring for too long and rusts out the grade 8’s. That’s been the only reason I’ve had to replace bolts.
The stamped steel Battle Born beadlocks had more issues with the ring bending out of shape. I don’t have that issue with the thicker ring on the Methods.
I’ve never run over 30 psi.
Methods are a pain to mount a tire. The wheel itself is slightly larger. I have buddies with KMC’s and Vision and the tires seem to come off and on without a fight.
20 ft*lbs on the bolts is all that’s needed.
I’ve started using commercial grade bead sealer goop a few years ago to seal the inside mating surface on the outer bead. It got rid of the slow leak that beadlocks tend to have.
Some things from my experience:
the bolts have never loosened up on me for my last two rigs. I’ve run stamped steel beadlocks and I’m currently running cast Methods. The scary part is if water sits in that seam between the wheel and the ring for too long and rusts out the grade 8’s. That’s been the only reason I’ve had to replace bolts.
The stamped steel Battle Born beadlocks had more issues with the ring bending out of shape. I don’t have that issue with the thicker ring on the Methods.
I’ve never run over 30 psi.
Methods are a pain to mount a tire. The wheel itself is slightly larger. I have buddies with KMC’s and Vision and the tires seem to come off and on without a fight.
20 ft*lbs on the bolts is all that’s needed.
I’ve started using commercial grade bead sealer goop a few years ago to seal the inside mating surface on the outer bead. It got rid of the slow leak that beadlocks tend to have.
Last edited:
so what did you go with? ever move forward?
"Replaced" is a tough one lol... still running my hawgs from 2006 and they are in great shape. truck barely moves but soon, i hope, 2026, expect it to leave the driveway every weekend....
picking up h1 12 bolt beadlocks today and might remove my 16.5x12 steelies to put on the h1's - of course I need to find 2" spacers first ( i know, i know.. spacers... but dont want to do recentered centers)
I ended up going with 18x9 Parallel forged wheels, they are a simulated beadlock wheel
We have lots (100K+) of miles on beadlocks in all conditions. Contrary to popular opinion, we don't re-torque the bolts. If they make you nervous, mark them so you can see if they rotate. The problem with twisting that bolt is that if the ring cones at all it will bend the bolt head to match the cone angle. Then you rotate the bolt and it bends the head to match a new angle. Keep repeating and you snap the heads off. I've watched it in real time to the end point of a ring coming off going down the road because the guy would not quit messing with his wheels.
We also avoid re-using bolts. Right now they go in a bin and get re-purposed to something disposable an non critical like skidplate bolts. The trash can is also an OK place to store them. They don't cost all that much.
Pay attention to bead thickness and cone angle of the ring. Some cone angle is to be expected but it should really be barely noticible.
This is all assuming a quality wheel with a centering ring and spacing proper for your bead thickness. Old school weld it yourself stuff that is basically just clamping the tire between two plates is a whole different story.
We also avoid re-using bolts. Right now they go in a bin and get re-purposed to something disposable an non critical like skidplate bolts. The trash can is also an OK place to store them. They don't cost all that much.
Pay attention to bead thickness and cone angle of the ring. Some cone angle is to be expected but it should really be barely noticible.
This is all assuming a quality wheel with a centering ring and spacing proper for your bead thickness. Old school weld it yourself stuff that is basically just clamping the tire between two plates is a whole different story.
I’m using the Coyote Beadlocks.
I haven’t driven on them yet. As the truck is still on building phase. But, they don’t go flat, or leak down, and DOT approved.
You can run what ever rim you have.
I haven’t driven on them yet. As the truck is still on building phase. But, they don’t go flat, or leak down, and DOT approved.
You can run what ever rim you have.
just looked them up, seems like a great option if you dont want to have to buy new rims, which i really dont want to do.
You do have to drill another hole for the “beadlock” valve stem. Easy enough. I’ve had them on for over a year now, I check them about once a month. Not one of them
Has leaked down, no issues.
The great thing is I get to run my favorite “Slotted Dish Mags”
The installation was a holy nightmare. I couldn’t find anyone local to even attempt them.
So it was flat-bar tire spoons and sledge hammers, and the requisite amount of having your 42’s beat the crap out of you.
Last edited:
