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Beag's 67 Chevelle. Supercharged Summer

The rim never rides on the studs anyways, the conical part of the nuts centers the rims over the studs well before they even get close to tight. I would guess Wilwood never bothered trying for "hub-centric" due to the millions of different hub diameters you could possibly find in the aftermarket. Lug-centric is way more common.
 
Another lug/stud question....

Using red locktite or what to keep them threaded studs in place? I'm guessing a thread catching and screwing one all the way back into whatever's behind it would suck.

Uh-oh....your on to something... I have a trick or two up my sleeve. You will have to stay tuned until I order or get some gears from Rob....
 
The rim never rides on the studs anyways, the conical part of the nuts centers the rims over the studs well before they even get close to tight. I would guess Wilwood never bothered trying for "hub-centric" due to the millions of different hub diameters you could possibly find in the aftermarket. Lug-centric is way more common.
Right but the hub centric guys beat a drum about the weight sitting on the lugs/studs conical seat.
 
Uh-oh....your on to something... I have a trick or two up my sleeve. You will have to stay tuned until I order or get some gears from Rob....

I was thinking run em out the back an ⅛ inch and have them no-filler tigged on the back side.
I say no filler because balance. But a good welder could probably do it even enough to not matter. Suck if you broke one though :dunno:
 
I was thinking run em out the back an ⅛ inch and have them no-filler tigged on the back side.
I say no filler because balance. But a good welder could probably do it even enough to not matter. Suck if you broke one though :dunno:

Interesting idea. :whistle:
 
Wasnt looking to start a whole thing on hub/lug centric. I'm just the kind of person that looks at something and thinks they could have made something a bit stronger/smarter/whatever why didn't they. Wilwood took an option away. It could have been of shoulder a smaller diameter, could choose to optionally have some rings for varying size hub centers. I've seen people snap wheel studs under hard use and even though you shouldn't ever have a problem, why not..? Hence belt AND suspenders..

I always over think things.

They are nice looking pieces for sure!


:saweet::waytogo:
 
Wasnt looking to start a whole thing on hub/lug centric. I'm just the kind of person that looks at something and thinks they could have made something a bit stronger/smarter/whatever why didn't they. Wilwood took an option away. It could have been of shoulder a smaller diameter, could choose to optionally have some rings for varying size hub centers. I've seen people snap wheel studs under hard use and even though you shouldn't ever have a problem, why not..? Hence belt AND suspenders..

I always over think things.

They are nice looking pieces for sure!


:saweet::waytogo:
Oh I know. I'm not trying to argue with anyone. Just injecting some science and tech as I know it.
I May not even necessarily be 100% right either. But I know I'm on the right track at least.

Your right about having rings. They sent me some rings for the rear end to center the disk brake on the axle. Same principal.
 
I could write a college thesis on why hub centric doesn't matter, but I'll break it down to a simpler equation for you.

When you build a house, how does it stay standing? The nails hold it together, right? Little 3 inch strips of wire hold up your house? Consider that the avg 1500 sq foot house weighs 300,000 lbs, and the avg amount of nails weighes in 300 lbs for that same 1500 sq ft house.

How does that work?
It's all friction and clamping force. The nail doesn't hold anything. the friction from the to boards hold the structure. The nail is just the clamp.

Applying this to wheels as long as the lug nuts have a proper torque applied to them, they allow the proper tension between the wheel and the hub mounting surface.
This friction is enough to hold the weight of the car and then some. And the stress loads will transfer to the hub and onto the spindle and so forth.

So in short. A properly torqued lug nut, matters and the idea that the weight of the car is sitting on the studs is hogwash.

And even if you choose not to believe me, a standard grade 8 bolt tensile strength is 150,000 lbs. Typically a wheel stud is around 190,000lbs.
Now granted, UTS (ultimate tensile strength) is tension loading and you could make an argument that tension isn't the same on side loading. ( A whole different conversation)
I would say that 20 bolts rated for 190,000 Ft lbs, UTS (or 3,800,000 lbs ft) should be strong enough to hold a a 3500lbs car.

One last note is that as a car moves forces are greater, so my explanation is a static example.
I don't think studs have a problem supporting the weight, the only concern I would have is if the axle was designed for hub centric and lugs are not perfectly centered it would be an issue but I have yet to have an issue as long as the wheels are lug centric and have the tapered holes.
I had dually wheels that were not and thankfully they were hub centric.
 
Ford put out a really cool DVD about clamping force and all that technical stuff when they started having issues with hub centric dually wheels on F550 trucks coming loose. Pretty neat. It analyzed clamping forces with dry studs vs lubricated studs and a few other things.
 
Ford put out a really cool DVD about clamping force and all that technical stuff when they started having issues with hub centric dually wheels on F550 trucks coming loose. Pretty neat. It analyzed clamping forces with dry studs vs lubricated studs and a few other things.
:waytogo:

I carry a ICC structural steel and bolting certificate. Two weeks of class about bolts and bolting. Talk about dry. Unless your a dweeb like me, then you actually kinda enjoy it.
I could go into a whole thing about how torque isn't tension and so forth.
The difference in rusty bolts, clean bolts and lubricated bolts.
Here is a picture of what happens when your bolt is over lubricated.
2013-01-23 16.09.04.jpg

That's 7/8 inch bolt. Not a little guy by any means.
Sheared right in half.
There is a proper amount of lubricant that bolt is supposed to have. It's kinda like the 3 bears amount of porridge. Not to much, not to little, but just right...:haha:
Once a bolt gets rusty your supposed to clean the threads and reapply oil and such forth.
 
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Yeah pretty cool. I'm sure you get into all kinds of that stuff with bridges and structural applications and all that.

Ford runs those lug nuts with the washer and I was amazed the lost in clamping force when not properly lubricated in the correct places when torquing them down. No wonder why wheels were always falling off. Add in the problems with rust on the hub face and also on the front and back of two rims sandwiched together.
 
You must be pushing the limits of tension, is that a torque to yield fastener? I would never imagine too much lubricant would make that much of a difference assuming it was properly lubricated in the first place, not using a dry value with a lubricated screw, etc. Makes you wonder if something else happened too?

Have you seen the data from ARP on how it can change after a few cycles of torque/loosen? Some recommend to torque brand new rod bolts 2 or 3 times to get a more consistent tension/torque value, although the ARP moly lube is supposed to reduce that effect.

I have a page in my app that calculates torque values bases on the thread size, pitch, surface finish/lubrication, % of yield, etc. Of course its based on some assumptions and some simple equations so it has its limitations. You can't usually measure bolt stretch in most applications, and most of them aren't necessary anyway, but that does eliminate all of the torque errors and goes straight to the stretch/strain/tension.

I have had good luck just using locktight on the threaded wheel studs and be sure to snug them down good, not just hand tight. I wouldn't weld on a hardened bolt/stud. Also, if your thread is so messed up it breaks the loctite bond before it starts to tighten down then you have other problems. I always use a dab of oil or WD or antiseize on wheel stud/lug nut interface.

BTW, how do you torque a nut with a round bolt head? What did the other side of that bolt look like, what kept it from spinning? Looks to thin to be a socket head...
 
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:waytogo:

I carry a ICC structural steel and bolting certificate. Two weeks of class about bolts and bolting. Talk about dry. Unless your a dweeb like me, then you actually kinda enjoy it.
My first class in the Navy was Basic Handtools. Sounds boring, but I remember a lot of stuff from that class. Sometimes the most mundane things are interesting and not really as mundane as you might think.
 
All structural bolts are tested for their stretch limits. We don't push that in the field, that goes back to the 70% ultimate tensile strength I talked about a few posts ago.
Granted some of that is assumed, As all bolts will be different. And you trust that your test sample is good enough to represent all bolts in the lot.
The manufacturer of the bolts will test that in the lab for a given lot number of bolts.
Of course metallurgy testing is part of that as well.

No, that bolt isn't a torque to yield type fastener. Having one hand in the auto world and one in the construction industry, I have asked those questions myself. And only get answers when I run across another car guy. :haha:
But the construction guys look at you funny.
So those two technologies don't cross over.

Those bolts were bolts I personally tested back in '13/'14ish they were at the bottom of the barrel. Full of oil. Actually had to wipe off the oil off first.
The tension is calculated off the correct amount of lube that is slightly oily but not soaked like those were.
When they broke, I knew what happened. But as I inspector I can't just toss out two broken bolts and say fu©k it, that doesn't matter.
The fact is , I tested the bolt and they broke. While my education kicked in said. It's of no consequence, I'm ethically obligated to report it. So course when I reported this and it started a whole mess.
Why did they fail, how many bolts failed, what was I doing when they failed. How many bolts where in the lot, and how many barrels were in that lot, etc,etc.
Well unfortunately, there ended up being alot of barrels. And alot of bolts in the lot. (I can't recall how many)
So when it happened, Nucor Steel sent one of their QA reps out to Colorado from Indiana.
The problem was, if the failure happened, all the bolts would from the lot would have to be found and replaced. Some bolts being in service in buildings.
Anyway the next day we tested bolts and tested and tested. We tested with my machine and his machine.
Then they took the failed bolts for destructive metallurgy testing.
It was quite the thing.
It was also one of those "ah shit!" Moments where I realized how important my job can be. Lol.

In short the answer is-(I don't have the testing results anymore) over lubricated bolts. I do understand what your saying about tension being calculating off of dry bolts, friction from the threads, etc.
But they calculate off of properly oiled bolt.
(As a side note, I'm the only inspector that's I know that has first hand experience with this type of failure and everyone else I've met has only read about it in the textbooks. So it's rare.
I was actually asked to talk about it at an AWS conference once.)

Yep I've seen that about ARP before. If I recall to my automotive training, some OEMs do that as well.
My only thought is, how do they measure the tension on the bolt in the real world?
If your tighting a main cap you can't check that in the real world. But a rod bolt you can usually put a stretch gauge on it. But even a stretch gauge doesn't give you a real value. Just a known amount of stretch to calculate back into your chart, that you made up from Lab testing of tension.

I'm not going to weld on a hardened bolt for my axle. Even a small amount of heat can possibly destroy the metallurgy.
You know the flat-earthers, that talk about how jet fuel doesn't burn hot enough to melt steel. But yet, somehow jet fuel took down the twin towers on 9/11.... Yeah those people are idiots, steel weakens at a much lower temperatures. Steel melts at 2800 but the affects of weakening steel starts at 400 degrees.
@tRustyK5 knows this, when you had a temp stick in your tool box, you probably had a 70,150,400,800 degree temp stick? (Possibly others depending on what kind of steel fabrication you were doing)
I have a trick up my sleeve for those axles. I'll post it up in the next few days. Unfortunately, it's not a clear cut as just cutting threads in the axle flange.

Lastly, (whew!)
The bolt that broke is a TC bolt.
(Tension control bolt)
Those are the bolts that look like rivets on one side.
TE180703750---A0.jpg

And lastly anyone that bothered to read all that.... Here a picture of the bolts on my bridge I'm building now. Hot off the presses, I took this pic this morning.

092D6B79-BEE9-41E0-A117-AB3211BC5A1D.jpeg
 
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My first class in the Navy was Basic Handtools. Sounds boring, but I remember a lot of stuff from that class. Sometimes the most mundane things are interesting and not really as mundane as you might think.
Just think about all the guys that don't know how to use tools correctly. Like a adjustable wrench. Etc. Hell I bet I would even learn something from that class.
And at the end of the day, that's what it's all about. Learning something new everyday. (At least for me)
 
Ford put out a really cool DVD about clamping force and all that technical stuff when they started having issues with hub centric dually wheels on F550 trucks coming loose. Pretty neat. It analyzed clamping forces with dry studs vs lubricated studs and a few other things.

I'd be interested in seeing that vid - if anyone knows of a source online.

:waytogo:

I carry a ICC structural steel and bolting certificate. Two weeks of class about bolts and bolting. Talk about dry. Unless your a dweeb like me, then you actually kinda enjoy it.
I could go into a whole thing about how torque isn't tension and so forth.
The difference in rusty bolts, clean bolts and lubricated bolts.
Here is a picture of what happens when your bolt is over lubricated.
View attachment 341876

That's 7/8 inch bolt. Not a little guy by any means.
Sheared right in half.
There is a proper amount of lubricant that bolt is supposed to have. It's kinda like the 3 bears amount of porridge. Not to much, not to little, but just right...:haha:
Once a bolt gets rusty your supposed to clean the threads and reapply oil and such forth.

That left bolt almost looks like it was stressed under several cycles..?
 
Speaking of which, since you mentioned it, that seems to be a "controversial" subject on the proper use of adjustable wrenches. Some companies say to do the opposite of others.

If I ignore all of that, from a force standpoint using it so the force on the adjustable jaw is closer to the base would be a stronger direction (handle force toward the fixed jaw). Personally I never use them for anything that needs to be that tight. Usually it's only soft fittings, etc, that I don't want to scratch and use low torque, and I always make sure the jaws are turned tight against the flats(very important), at which point I will use them whatever way fits, but attempt the force toward the fixed jaw if possible. If you have to crank on it hard enough you are worried about slipping, bending, or breaking anything either way you use it, you are using the wrong tool in my opinion.
 
I'd be interested in seeing that vid - if anyone knows of a source online.



That left bolt almost looks like it was stressed under several cycles..?
In a TC it's not possible to go through several cycles.
You see the splined end.TE180703750---A0.jpg

The splined end breaks off once the bolt is tensioned correctly .

Hence the name tension control. It allows any monkey to get the correct tension on a bolt.
It's a life saver for me..as I can trust the bolt. And not the person installing bolts.
Unfortunately these days I build more bridges then buildings. (Hey I didn't realize that myself until this moment)
And those aren't allowed in bridges yet.
Anyway, they are a single use bolt.
Once you break of the splined end.... And if you have to remove it for a reason..... It's a new bolt going back in the hole.
 

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