Beag's 67 Chevelle. Supercharged Summer

[beags86]

I think you’ll like the Firehawks for the street, but they're no track tire. I had them on the Vette and bought them 15 yrs ago, and they hooked at the strip pretty good, but had to be pretty careful with them in the rain.
Heat exhaustion comes on as fatigue, light headed, nauseous, etc. Its best to hydrate to prevent, but if you feel it coming on, get in the A/C or at least shade, and pound a Powerade or similar sports drink followed by a bottle of water.
3 tits and a shaved beaver on the progress!

Thanks.
The Firehawks would be my street treads.
I might even put some drag slicks on those old cragers I have. Not sure if they would fit with the back brakes or not. I might have to check that. Otherwise I can use some Camaro rallies I have. Or whatever else I have stashed away.

It's been hot lately. It will definitely slow my progress some. This humidity/heat is seriously as useful as tits on a boar.

Option C
Nothing like a waste of time and a letdown!

Yeah making a big stink might make me feel better!
Lol.
If nothing else, I feel like so many places treat people like crap these days and get away with it!
People got to stand up and quit letting companies take advantage of them. Luckily for me Nitto and Goodyear both had tires in the same price point as these. And it was really just picking apples at this point.
(No one apple on the tree is better then the next)

Just for Dave @6872xtc so he doesn't need to ask me what's in the box.


Brake parts showed up. Now I can get back to making the stuff I need for the line lock and connect the brake lines to the wilwood proportioning valve.
Also my heat shield stuff. I'll knock out a simple heat shield later this week.

Did get around to finishing the front muscle bar (I'll do a quick write up tomorrow when I get some pictures) and did a quick test fire for leaks. All good.

 

[6872xtc]

Cool to see your progress!
Nice parts and plan to use them!

 

[beags86]

Huh. Tire shop called me at 6:06 this morning. Apologizing. Told me to come in today and they would "make it right".

Guess we will see.

 

[beags86]

@fastazz81 Steve, you were right. They didn't want a mad customer and they took care of me.

I just said to him "what do you want to do about my wasted time?"
He said well "what do you want me to do?"

I hate it when people answer a question with a question. That's my trick!

I said "do mount and balance for free and we are square"

He said "I'll do you one better and toss in roadside hazzard."

I said ok. That fine. We shook hands on it.
A small touch that I appreciate. I appreciate the old ways of society.

I can be happy with that deal.

I am sure that it's regular deal for an unhappy customer. Roadside is 22 per tire and he is playing the percentages of the packages you sell vs the tires you have to replace. ( Basic insurance math) Plus he knows it's going on a 67 chevelle that won't get driven all year.

Now will he cover it when I toss that heavy bitch into turn one and peel the thread off the casing?? time will tell.

 

[imiceman44]

@fastazz81 Steve, you were right. They didn't want a mad customer and they took care of me.

I just said to him "what do you want to do about my wasted time?"
He said well "what do you want me to do?"

I hate it when people answer a question with a question. That's my trick!

I said "do mount and balance for free and we are square"

He said "I'll do you one better and toss in roadside hazzard."

I said ok. That fine. We shook hands on it.
A small touch that I appreciate. I appreciate the old ways of society.

I can be happy with that deal.

I am sure that it's regular deal for an unhappy customer. Roadside is 22 per tire and he is playing the percentages of the packages you sell vs the tires you have to replace. ( Basic insurance math) Plus he knows it's going on a 67 chevelle that won't get driven all year.

Now will he cover it when I toss that heavy bitch into turn one and peel the thread off the casing?? time will tell.

 

[beags86]

Tires are mounted and home. Look good. I like them. Firestone as a whole. Meh. Don't know if I would buy again.
Have to see how these do.


Sway bar.

Super beef unit. Was impressed with the packing of the unit for shipping.



When I went to install it I found a welding defect. A little burn through of the weld.
This was the only Craftsmanship defect in any of this stuff.
A quick file and some paint and it was fixed. Really can't complain with the quality of this stuff. You pay alot but it's nice stuff.
A little hard to see but you can see it there.


And it installed.




Not super happy with the way it installs.
You have to drill and tap the frame to install it.
And of course I pulled the threads on one of the holes. I still have to fix that.
I like it otherwise, but not super happy with the install.
Another area to address when I do the frame.

 

[max 02]

So Brian? How many Gs is that Chevelle going to pull on the skid pad?

Actually that is a serious question?
The parts look trick! What is the claim?

 

[beags86]

So Brian? How many Gs is that Chevelle going to pull on the skid pad?

Actually that is a serious question?
The parts look trick! What is the claim?

Actually Dean, I've never seen a claim for that. Here is what is included in the kit per ridetech:

This CoilOver System is specifically designed for the 1968-1972 GM “A” Body Platform and includes everything needed to create modern driveability from vintage muscle. Designed to lower your vehicle and improve handling and ride quality. The package contains front upper and lower control arms, tall spindles, front & rear MuscleBars, rear StrongArms and 4 HQ Series CoilOvers. The benefit of buying a complete suspension system is that it takes all of the guesswork out when purchasing a new suspension. RideTech has spent hours collecting data to find a perfect spring rate and components for your vehicle’s performance and ride quality. 1968-1972 GM “A” Body includes Chevelle, Cutlass, El Camino, F85, Grand Prix (69-72), GS, GTO, LeMans, Malibu, Monte Carlo, Skylark, Special, Sportwagon, Tempest and Vista Cruiser.

• RideTech Tall Spindles will induce more negative camber gain to maximize tire contact patch during cornering. It also offers a 2” pin drop which allows for the use of longer shocks creating more suspension travel.
• Upper StrongArms feature corrected ball joint angles for the tall spindles. The upper ball joint have been moved back to allow for additional caster setting to improve high speed stability and steering feel. Offset slugs are also available for additional caster. Injection molded Delrin bushings with 13% Teflon are used to reduce deflection and stiction.
• Lower StrongArms feature a double sheer lower mount for increased strength. We have also dropped the lower shock mount to increase suspension travel and moved the lower ball joint forward to increase caster settings while keeping the wheel centered in the wheel opening. Injection molded Delrin bushings with 13% Teflon are used to reduce deflection and stiction.
• HQ Series CoilOvers utilize an impact forged aluminum body and Monotube design to deliver excellent ride quality and handling. They allow fine tuning of the ride quality and handling via the rebound knob, located at the top of the shock for under hood access. They come standard with a 1,000,0001 Mile Warranty. Brackets are included witht the rear coilovers for easy attachment to the frame and to the 10/12 bolt rearend or Currie 9″. Brackets for a Moser rearend are also available. Interested in AutoCross or Road Course Racing? Consider the TQ Series CoilOvers.
• Front MucleBar helps reduce body roll and creates room for wider front tires. It includes the PosiLink endlinks that provide immediate engagement between the chassis and control arms. An adjustable rate Rear MuscleBar is also included.
• Rear StrongArms provide added strength to help get the power to the pavement and utilize R-Joint Technology to combine the best qualities of low friction movement, lateral stability, full range articulation, and quiet operation into one special bearing that is as home on the street as it is on the racetrack.

I have added a few chassis braces to help things out in the back. You can see them here.


I honestly believe my chassis will be a wet noodle otherwise. I came to the realization that these parts would far out perform my stock chassis when I was buying it.
My goal for this was always to keep it stockish. Or at least something that will be on the road every summer.
I don't want to undergo a 5-10 year build building a custom frame or cutting the car up into a million pieces.
So over the winter I'll start looking for another frame. And I'll do what I need to, then just swap frames around.
I have some good ideas for modding the frame... that I think will help.

But I digress...back to your question. I never saw ridetech publish a number.
I'm guessing this is due to the fact that your results may vary based off your car. They say that the crossmembers sag over time on these cars. And that can affect the numbers. Also these cars are known for cracks up behind the front wheel.
Sure as shit, mine has been welded there. Not a huge deal for me. But one I'll address with a different chassis/frame.
But between the cracks and sagging crossmembers I would think that a skidpad number would vary a fair amount.

I suppose you add in tires and wheels, and even driver skill...

Obviously a full on kit like this should pull a big number on the skidpad. And thats something I intend to find out.

 

[beags86]

Here are a few ridetech videos for you guys just for fun.

 

[shady]

Just dig a couple more coffee cans of cash out of the back yard and buy one of these

MAW

https://roadstershop.com/product/full-chassis/1964-67-chevelle-fast-track-chassis/

 

[beags86]

Just dig a couple more coffee cans of cash out of the back yard and buy one of these

MAW

https://roadstershop.com/product/full-chassis/1964-67-chevelle-fast-track-chassis/

Lol. I think those bolt on chassises are great for alot of people. The RS is right down the street from me.

But, I want to build my own. It's not even about money as much as I just want to do it for myself.
I need to push myself in skills and abilities. Continue to push myself to learn. Continue to build things at a higher level.
I don't want to build a chassis from scratch for this car. That's a different vehicle.
I have bigger ideas for another vehicle I have sitting for those kinds of ideas.

But the stock a body frame I have in my mind will be heavily modified.
I found a guy up in Wisconsin that seems to have a stockpile of a-body frames for a reasonable price. Anywhere around here people want to much for them from what I've seen.

 

[max 02]

Here are a few ridetech videos for you guys just for fun.

I’ll watch those later!

 

[beags86]

I’ll watch those later!

The first one is the one to watch to get an idea of what it's like.

Of course they are produced by ridetech. So you can't discredit some marketing in there.

 

[beags86]

Today was rework day. Decided to redo some things that were bothering me.
Fuel lines were to long. Trimmed 5 inches off to clean up the routing. Some wiring and the oil pressure sender was leaking.
Then I heat sleeved the passenger front brake line and built a heat shield.
Lots of hours in the shop and very little forward progress. But that's the way it goes.

I built this heat shield out of a piece of tin that came off a grain auger for a pto shield. It got tossed in the back of my truck and made it my house somehow.
Farm equipment parts live on....on a muscle car.....

 

[beags86]

Got the brake lines for the line lock in today.
Decided to try my hand at the AN hard line stuff. Never used it before. I like it.
It will be my new standard.


Just as disclaimer, (before Heath busts me) this line lock installation it not NHRA legal. For legal rules you need to install the line lock after the prop valve.
But as my intended usage for this car has maybe changed a bit. And drag strip duty seems less and less likely all the time.
(Plus tech might not even catch it)
When I bought the line lock last fall I still was thinking of some weekend drag racing. Now it's more for fun.


ON TO SOME PICS!


I did such a good job I gave my myself some Cookies !

 

[campfire]

Just as disclaimer, (before Heath busts me) this line lock installation it not NHRA legal. For legal rules you need to install the line lock after the prop valve.
But as my intended usage for this car has maybe changed a bit. And drag strip duty seems less and less likely all the time.
(Plus tech might not even catch it)
When I bought the line lock last fall I still was thinking of some weekend drag racing. Now it's more for fun.

What is the benefit of putting the line lock ahead of the prop valve? Doesn't the prop valve have the potential of messing up the functionality, trying to keep the circuits balanced while one is locked?

 

[beags86]

What is the benefit of putting the line lock ahead of the prop valve? Doesn't the prop valve have the potential of messing up the functionality, trying to keep the circuits balanced while one is locked?

The prop valve is one line in and two lines out.
The front left and right wheels have their own line coming out of the prop valve.

There are a hundred different ways to run it after the prop valve. But I chose to run it this way due to location and packaging.

As functionality is concerned I did wonder about that myself. I asked a question on another forum I am on and did some googlefu-ing. Seems that alot of guys run it like that. Without problems.
For as much it will get used, it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[beags86]

What is the benefit of putting the line lock ahead of the prop valve? Doesn't the prop valve have the potential of messing up the functionality, trying to keep the circuits balanced while one is locked?

Here is the prop valve I bought. 2 in and 3 out.
In Hindsight, I probably bought the wrong prop valve. But I got it to work.

 

[campfire]

As functionality is concerned I did wonder about that myself. I asked a question on another forum I am on and did some googlefu-ing. Seems that alot of guys run it like that. Without problems.
For as much it will get used, it shouldn't be a problem.

It just depends on how your prop valve will react with an imbalance on the inlet side. If I did that with my stock combination valve, I think the safety circuit inside is supposed to flip and disable the circuit that has the lower pressure.

You wouldn't have any problems if your prop valve doesn't try to adjust the pressure imbalance. But if it's not adjusting pressure, why bother having both circuits running through the same valve? You could just have separate circuits, with an inline reduction valve on one (if needed).

 

[beags86]

When the lock isn't in use, why would there be an in-balance?



I think your overthinking it.