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Beag's 67 Chevelle. Supercharged Summer

I was wondering why you can't just not use one front output, and T after the line lock. :dunno:

If it ends up causing an issue you'll know first time you use it. If you hook the switch up anyway.
 
All that will happen is the brake light will come on when I hit the switch, when it sees the pressure difference.
The prop valve will be fine. The line lock will be fine.
If I was to confirm to NHRA rules I would have to block off one of the outlet ports. Run the line lock. Then T the fitting to the left and right wheels.
I really just didn't want to do it that way.
I'm not sure what kind prop valve campy uses on a junk.2 but this one won't disable a circuit. Just toss a light.
Once you step off the pedal it will go away.

Like I said hindsight being 20/20 I would have could have bought a different prop valve/distribution block.
At this point I don't feel like waiting for a different one to show up.
 
Stock prop valves block a line if it loses pressure to give you some sort of brakes to get stopped. Then you have to press something on the front of it to reset the plunger inside.

Some of them anyway. I've had to do it once myself.
If your light goes away after the line lock is off, then it'll be fine.
 
To be fair. I'm not even sure if the car has an actual light. It was a drum/drum car. It probably doesn't have one.
Even it does, it's just an idiot light.

I never seen a resettable valve.


As I mentioned there are probably a hundred different ways to plumb it. I could have used the line lock as a distribution block. As it has two outlets.
This is just the way I chose.
 
beags86 said:
Just as disclaimer, (before Heath busts me) this line lock installation it not NHRA legal. For legal rules you need to install the line lock after the prop valve.
But as my intended usage for this car has maybe changed a bit. And drag strip duty seems less and less likely all the time.
(Plus tech might not even catch it)
When I bought the line lock last fall I still was thinking of some weekend drag racing. Now it's more for fun.
Click to expand...

Actually per NHRA rules you have to put the line lock after a "differential pressure switch" that senses a difference between the front and rear brake circuits and turns on a warning light. That is not a differential pressure switch, it is simply a brake light switch to turn on the lights when you hit the brakes. That valve maintains full separation between the circuits, it's basically a rear pressure regulator attached to a front T with a brake light switch. So you can put it wherever you want.
 
folkenheath said:
Actually per NHRA rules you have to put the line lock after a "differential pressure switch" that senses a difference between the front and rear brake circuits and turns on a warning light. That is not a differential pressure switch, it is simply a brake light switch to turn on the lights when you hit the brakes. That valve maintains full separation between the circuits, it's basically a rear pressure regulator attached to a front T with a brake light switch. So you can put it wherever you want.
Click to expand...
Right, I knew the wilwood was just a brake light switch.
But there was alot of talk between the stock prop valve and this one.
I didn't read the rule book for the correct wording. I just know the jist of it.
That's good to know in case I do decide take it to Union Grove and I were to get hassled.
 
beags86 said:
Right, I knew the wilwood was just a brake light switch.
But there was alot of talk between the stock prop valve and this one.
I didn't read the rule book for the correct wording. I just know the jist of it.
That's good to know in case I do decide take it to Union Grove and I were to get hassled.
Click to expand...

Yeah I didn't think you would use that switch anyway, I would plug it.

I think where the confusion comes from is that most of the factory "differential pressure switches" are part of the stock proportioning valve, so people think the rule pertains to the proportioning valves, when it doesn't. In that situation it could turn the idiot light on. I call it the idiot light because in the few times I have ever had my brakes go out, do to a burst hose or rusted line, I have always noticed it in the pedal before the idiot light turned on.

But in your situation nothing would happen because that valve has no idea whether you are pushing the brakes or have the line lock on. The only difference would be, if you hooked up that brake switch, when you hold the line lock the brake light would stay on, whereas normally it turns off when you let go of the pedal.
 
Yeah after I made my comment about the dash light I realized that the dash light might not work depending on how the wiring is set up from the factory valve.


I haven't looked into the factory wiring yet. That still on the list of things to address.
 
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So I do have a back up plan. Me and wife have talked about this happening. We are going to go on a cruise with the car instead. There are some things we want to do and want to see. I guess now that my vacation days just opened up we will make a plan.
 
Truckman4life said:
More stuff caving to the covid stupidity! I'm sick of this retarded bullshit!
Click to expand...
I'm mostly tired of everything I had wanted to do with this car being cancelled. From my local bi weekly car show, to powertour to my local autocross stuff.
Maybe just sell it and buy a side by side like everyone else.
 
beags86 said:
I'm mostly tired of everything I had wanted to do with this car being cancelled. From my local bi weekly car show, to powertour to my local autocross stuff.
Maybe just sell it and buy a side by side like everyone else.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's what I'm sick of, not being able to do stuff that I want to. Heck even our normal camping in the mtns near us is nuts. So many people and side by sides. It's mostly all the dumb asses from up north in the city too so the roads are all tore up and super dusty and just not any fun.
 
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