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Beefing up 10bolt
- Thread starter TXsizeK5
- Start date
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
I can get 14 FFs for $150 all day long, and a matched pair of 3/4 tons in a local junkyard go for $250-300. It's all based on what you're willing to pay. The used parts aren't worth squat IMO.
While in the past I payed $150 for a pair of 1/2 tons, (10bolt/12 bolt combo) I know better now. I now have a 10 bolt/14 SF combo that were given to me.
Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
While in the past I payed $150 for a pair of 1/2 tons, (10bolt/12 bolt combo) I know better now. I now have a 10 bolt/14 SF combo that were given to me.
Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
The average price for a 14FF around here is $150, if you don't include the big rip-off specialist yards. I bought mine for $100 which included new brake pads and cylinders, all I did was paint it and put in some fresh gear lube before swapping it under the Blazer.
TXsizeK5
1/2 ton status
Teh trouble would be finding a 14ff with 4.56 in it already.... it prolly woldnt be at all common where i live... besides the wheelin we do no one even rbeaks stock 10bolts. There are no rocks or mountains to crawl, nothing to really jump.. just mud and some hills. Thats why i would rather just spend a few bucks to streghnthen the 10bolt than get a whole new axle. And the question i was asking befoire was... what makes the 14ff stronger? axle shafts? carriers? gears? bearings?
6in 87' K5 w/ 35" BFG muds.
305/Sm465/ NP208
Kn, 4.56's.
In desperate need of a rebuild.
Next- Eaton mech locker... Flows.
6in 87' K5 w/ 35" BFG muds.
305/Sm465/ NP208
Kn, 4.56's.
In desperate need of a rebuild.
Next- Eaton mech locker... Flows.
greg83k5
1/2 ton status
all that, plus thicker tubes.
greg
PS i got my 14 bolt for $50, and whaddya know there was a 4.56 gear inside!!
PSS this was and will probably be the only cheap break i got on my build-up.....
greg
PS i got my 14 bolt for $50, and whaddya know there was a 4.56 gear inside!!
PSS this was and will probably be the only cheap break i got on my build-up.....
everything you mentioned and more
bigger ring gear and pinion
bigger bearings
extra pinion support bearing
bigger axles
bigger carrier
full float style that gives you 2 bigger bearings per wheel
bigger brakes
bigger and thicker housing and axle tubes
bigger ring gear and pinion
bigger bearings
extra pinion support bearing
bigger axles
bigger carrier
full float style that gives you 2 bigger bearings per wheel
bigger brakes
bigger and thicker housing and axle tubes
CaptCrunch
1/2 ton status
I know where you are at... I have been struggling with the same questions... 12B or 14BFF... No luck finding a 14B SF. The down sides off the 14B FF would be weight ground clearence, new wheels, etc. Plus would be added strength but you are kinda left to detirmine if that is needed for your self. I still don't know for sure... leaning 14B FF
-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
Hey TXsizeK5,
I've already broken two 10 bolts here in Texas. One in College Station(threw half the carrier through the diff cover) and the other in Alto. Both were with 33's.
i've got a 12 and a 44 now, but my 700r4 has crapped out on me, but that'll be fixed soon.
Shoeless
'88 K5 D44, 12B, 33" MTR's and a worthless 700r4
I've already broken two 10 bolts here in Texas. One in College Station(threw half the carrier through the diff cover) and the other in Alto. Both were with 33's.
i've got a 12 and a 44 now, but my 700r4 has crapped out on me, but that'll be fixed soon.
Shoeless
'88 K5 D44, 12B, 33" MTR's and a worthless 700r4
For beefing up a rear 10-bolt, here is what I would suggest:
Replacement carrier/differential - such as a Detroit Locker or full case aftermarket posi like a Tru-Trac, do NOT use a drop in locker like the Lock-Right or EZ-locker as they will do nothing to strengthen the axle.
When replacing the carrier, install one meant for 30-spline axles. The 10-bolts originally came equipped with smaller 28-spline axleshafts, and around '88 or so they started using larger 30-spline shafts. If your 10-bolt originally was 28-spline, you can simply swap in a 30-spline carrier for no extra money and then buy some high strength axle shafts from someplace like Moser (usually about $250-$300 for a pair).
Finally, use some good aftermarket ring and pinion gears.
I ran a 10-bolt rear with aftermarket 4.10 gears, Detroit Tru-Trac, and high strength 30-spline shafts for about 2 years with 33's and 1 year with 35's, and did some fairly serious trail riding, with no problems from the rear axle......though I did break the front 10-bolt a couple of times.
The trouble is that you will wind up spending more money beefing up the 10-bolt then it would probably cost to convert to something like a 14 bolt SF or FF rear, even when including new 8-lug wheels. I finally put in a 14FF rear because I wanted a full locker and didn't want to spend more money on the 10, and for the peace of mind that the 14FF should never leave me stranded.
Replacement carrier/differential - such as a Detroit Locker or full case aftermarket posi like a Tru-Trac, do NOT use a drop in locker like the Lock-Right or EZ-locker as they will do nothing to strengthen the axle.
When replacing the carrier, install one meant for 30-spline axles. The 10-bolts originally came equipped with smaller 28-spline axleshafts, and around '88 or so they started using larger 30-spline shafts. If your 10-bolt originally was 28-spline, you can simply swap in a 30-spline carrier for no extra money and then buy some high strength axle shafts from someplace like Moser (usually about $250-$300 for a pair).
Finally, use some good aftermarket ring and pinion gears.
I ran a 10-bolt rear with aftermarket 4.10 gears, Detroit Tru-Trac, and high strength 30-spline shafts for about 2 years with 33's and 1 year with 35's, and did some fairly serious trail riding, with no problems from the rear axle......though I did break the front 10-bolt a couple of times.
The trouble is that you will wind up spending more money beefing up the 10-bolt then it would probably cost to convert to something like a 14 bolt SF or FF rear, even when including new 8-lug wheels. I finally put in a 14FF rear because I wanted a full locker and didn't want to spend more money on the 10, and for the peace of mind that the 14FF should never leave me stranded.
