CK5
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Beefy!

38377k5 said:
The pins wouldn't likely make the torsional strength much greater. Most of the torque is taken up by the friction between the two plates, plus the alignment pins are probably too loose of a fit to really take any torque.

I think most stock setups that are like this use a pilot in the middle of them to keep everything centered. Maybe the alignment pins are his replacement for that :dunno:

Yep, without the centering piece which isn't quite possible the way I have put this together there is no centering possible. The pins will be a press fit so they will do the centering for me. They will also help hold torsionally but your right the friction between the two will do the job by itself. There is a huge surface area hear to provide ample friction. The overkill is kinda fun on this one! Only thing I did with it today was lay it down in a Guardsman and it'll clear no problem. I don't think putting the guardsman on after the yoke is an option though.

I'm not sure I calculated it correctly but the 1480 looks to me to be capable of 42* +/- 1* without any clearancing when using the axle yokes. I hope tomorrow to have another piece finished. We'll see what time permits. If I do I'll post it back up here.

So far this is not a product so I don't want anybody thinkin' i'm advertising these. At this particular time I'm simply taking advantage of the shop resources for my own rig and sharing the outcome with you guys!
 
nvrenuf said:
I see how you used the old yoke, could the same be done with a 205 yoke for the 32 spline crowd?

I haven't gotten into the other yokes yet but I will at some point. I believe its doable with any of them though. Trick is finding the right stopping point on the removale of the ears. Somewhere there is a thick point in there where its plenty meaty yet but still has the squarish/ovalish hole. If you can stop right there, the welds don't really hold much.
 
Stomper said:
Yep, he's bound to find the next weak spot:laugh:

Those joints are stupid beefy:D

Hopefully the next weak point is traction coefficient, {is that the right word} Pfft. Whatever, When there done and the blazer is ready to roll again, I'm doing a 6000 rpm clutch bomb!:haha:
 
38377k5 said:
I think most stock setups that are like this use a step in the middle of them to keep everything centered.
Bingo. You have to have the "light press fit" concentric step. It won't work otherwise:wink1:
 
cybrfire said:
Hopefully the next weak point is traction coefficient, {is that the right word} Pfft. Whatever, When there done and the blazer is ready to roll again, I'm doing a 6000 rpm clutch bomb!:haha:

put balder tires on it, that will solve the breakage problems. :D
 
cybrfire said:
So far this is not a product so I don't want anybody thinkin' i'm advertising these. At this particular time I'm simply taking advantage of the shop resources for my own rig and sharing the outcome with you guys!



What a tease!

Like a well-endowed hooker on the corner of 5th and Main :D :haha: !!
 
Perhaps you should show the guys that dont understand, a pic of a 1350 joint and a 1480 joint. Also guys think of a cv shaft, it has the joints but bolts on to the transfer case with a metal plate now instead of a cv it will have a big yoke for a 1480 U-joint and this is going on where your 14b axle yoke goes on the pinion. Heavy equipment use this style to attach the drivelines.

Now my question is, WHY would you need a gaurdsman? That flange will take all kinds of abuse, or at least i think it would.

Balzer
 
I'll shoot a pic of the unmodded next to the modded.
 
Here's a pic of the factory yoke installed. Circled in red.

Camok5, hope ya don't mind I robbed your photo. If ya want it gone say so!

Yoke.jpg
 
Big91RustyBucket said:
I know what a pinion flange is , but in the pic it is sitting inside a rotor, and I need to see stuff compared to something to understand. Especially when it is in a pic of something that has nothing to do with it ;)

its not sitting in a rotor, that is the flange. its just huge.
 
Big91RustyBucket said:
I know what a pinion flange is , but in the pic it is sitting inside a rotor, and I need to see stuff compared to something to understand. Especially when it is in a pic of something that has nothing to do with it ;)

yeah, it kinda looks like a rotor doesn't it!:haha:
 
I dont mind at all if you use my pic. Actually its funny because I'm in the middle of replacing that yoke with a HAD 1410 strap upgrade kit. As you can see in the pic that my old M.O.O. anti wrap bar sucks and has caused me to go thru a handful of 1350 U joints. Might have to give you a call soon for a Wraptor upgrade kit:D.
 
Big91RustyBucket said:
I know what a pinion flange is , but in the pic it is sitting inside a rotor, and I need to see stuff compared to something to understand. Especially when it is in a pic of something that has nothing to do with it ;)

Dude that is the flange....
 
camok5 said:
I dont mind at all if you use my pic. Actually its funny because I'm in the middle of replacing that yoke with a HAD 1410 strap upgrade kit. As you can see in the pic that my old M.O.O. anti wrap bar sucks and has caused me to go thru a handful of 1350 U joints. Might have to give you a call soon for a Wraptor upgrade kit:D.
What about the anti-wrap bar was busting u-joints?
 
blasphemous said:
What about the anti-wrap bar was busting u-joints?

Its actually that every time the anti-wrap bar would break it then allowed my axle to wrap really bad which would cause the driveshaft to bind and break U joints(I have really soft custom Deaver Springs). You can see in the picture that I had to weld the anti-wrap bar back together because it has broken so many times the bolt holes dont line up anymore. The welds are already breaking and I am more than aware that its due to the bad design of the anti-wrap bar.
 

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