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Bench bleeding a MC vs. mounting and bleeding

K85 Octane

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Let me be more clear.

Bench bleeding a MC using a vise to hold it and pushing on the piston

VS.

Mounting it to the booster and using the pedal to bleed the MC



My battle with my rear disc brakes is constant. The other day I looked into getting some new Willwood dual piston calipers for the back. It wasn't because they are dual piston, it was the only thing they had for a front C/K10 as an upgrade. I only wanted to try something different, something that maybe wasn't designed to retract the pistons when the pedal was let off.

This has been my problem, the pistons retract 1/8" or more each time the pedal is let off, thus causing a squishy pedal and poor braking. (cause each stroke means re-filling the caliper before any braking happens. Lots of stroke wasted re-filling instead of applying pressure)

The Willwood guy I happen to get on the phone told me they all do that and are suppose to do that. (I doubt he would stick to that story if he saw mine in person) He said I probably have air in the lines. I said probably not, since I've gone through 5 MCs and 3 shops. He said did you bench bleed the master....I said yes. He asked "in a vise or mounted, because if it's mounted it probably still has air in it since the booster doesn't push the piston as far in as if you were doing it by hand".

Never heard of this before.
Thoughts?


I've pretty much been driving on front D60 brakes this whole time. Even with a 2psi check valve installed by the 3rd shop, the rears don't work. I am trying a 10psi check valve today since the 2psi one recently started leaking. If the 10 is too much, I have another new 2 that will get thrown in. Or I can find a coupler and go without. I think if I just cap off the rears, my fronts will work better and pedal pressure would be better too LOL

As cool as the rear discs are, it wasn't worth it.

PS> don't reply if you're just going to say how happy you are with rear discs. There are other "brake trouble" threads I have that you can voice your opinions in.
 
In a vice is the only way to go, it makes it soooooo much easier to get the air out. You will practically pump for ever using the pedal.
 
I've never heard of any disc brakes that were supposed to retract the calipers. They're supposed to drag just a tiny bit on every car I've done maintenance on.

I'm able to bleed my brakes by just opening the bleeder and waiting for gravity. It works great, but I don't have any check valves which sound like they'd prevent it. You shouldn't need a check valve with discs.

For my hydro clutch, I did have to remove it from the truck and bleed it on a bench on a vise to get it working good. Couldn't get the air out otherwise. If you have lines that aren't all running downhill, it would help get the air out. Or figure out a way to remove any high spots so it can gravity bleed.
 
Here is something I've read before. But it's insane to think my pistons should be moving 1/8-3/16" each time they are asked to work.

The makers of the brakes have to contend with three things that happen to all brakes - pads need "retracting" after use, pads wear and fluid gets hot and expands. Here again they use methods that are the same as in the family car. They use an ingenious method of pad retraction and self-adjustment; for expanded fluid they use a reservoir.

Retraction works like this - the caliper piston is sealed by a seal with a rectangular cross section. When the piston in the caliper is applied this seal tends to "stick" to the piston and it deforms sideways as the piston moves. When we let off the pressure in the brake, the seal wants to regain its old shape and it retracts backwards and drags the piston with it! Very ingenious! Here then we have pad retraction without the use of springs.
 
Not sure where that came from but the pads on my k5 and dodge minivan don't retract at all, except for an imperceptible amount when you let off the brake pedal. The rear drum brakes do retract though.
 
Waiting for some help to bleed the rears. I happened to have a coupler handy, so I'm not running any check valves now.

Baba: when I bleed the MC, yes, there is a ton of pumping, and when I consider the air all out....I pump for several more minutes after.

BP: Yeah, my fronts don't retract. My C10 and S10 discs don't retract either. I don't know what would make them retract. It is an unimaginable amount :( I've also tried gravity bleeding the system too but for some reason (valves or not, front or rear) the flow is just too damn slow. ChrisPerry came over to help one day, all day (thanks chris) before BB last year and we tried to figure it out. He brought up gravity bleeding to me, never heard of it till then.
 
Have you considered pulling it off to bench bleed it then sticking it back on then traditional bleed the calipers?
 
When bleeding the rear brakes it might require you to pull the calipers off and put a block of wood between the pads and hold the caliper so that the bleed screw is the highest point if not you will NEVER get all the air out. Most rear disc conversions i've seen the bleeder screw IS NOT at the highest point and this is usually because the rear axle has been rotated for correct pinion angle.

I also bleed the master cylinder while attached to the vehicle as I find it alot easier to do. I also attach all the brake lines and just start my bleeding procedure at the master cylinder lines first then continue on to the farthest wheel working back to the closest wheel.
 
i usually just mount the master cylinder and start bleeding the brakes. if it seems like it isn't working, i hook up a little hand operated vacuum pump.
 
I've bolted on many master cylinders and used the bleeder hose kit that comes with one and bled them by just pumping the brake pedal several times..
Haven't had one not bleed right yet..
I suppose on some vehicles that have the master mounted on a good
"tilt" might be troublesome,but all the GM's and other ones I've bled "on the car" worked out fine..

I wish all master cylinders had the bleeder screws on the ports--only had one or two that did,and didn't really want to give them up for a core charge--but they were NG and probably scored inside,so I did cash them in for the core charge..
 
Have you pressure bled it? A motive setup is less than $100. I've used mine many times, as I'm always bleeding by myself. Might help you get a better bleed on the system overall
 
Have you pressure bled it? A motive setup is less than $100. I've used mine many times, as I'm always bleeding by myself. Might help you get a better bleed on the system overall

The first shop pressure bled them. But that was 4 MC and new axle brake lines ago. :doah:

Is pressure bleeding better than using a vacuum bleeder?
 
Is pressure bleeding better than using a vacuum bleeder?

It's messier, but IMO, whatever gets the air out, gets the air out.

I've given up on pressure bleeding and just use a vacuum hand pump now. Much less slimy.

-- A
 
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