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BENDER stays in hibernation with me

i would put that back on. i'm removed mine and now air blows out that hole from inside the fenderwell. it's fine during the summer but the wife doesn't like the cold air blowing up her leg during the winter. i like the snow wheeling. so a warm truck is a must for my passengers. i don't care bout myself.
 
so you feel it all the time, nothing running? The drum fan inside, what is it for normally? Thanks
 
couldn't help but snap a really crappy night picture. The color looks funny in this pic, but they actually match, hmm. The brightness unfortunately isn't controllable anymore, but I don't think there will be a problem. If there is, I'll cover up one of the 5 LEDs that each bulb has. Haven't done the tach wiring yet. Progress is halted for the next week prolly. Work is very busy and I need to have two table/bars built by Monday.

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questions

If I clock my 208 and get a new front driveshaft....will I need a different driveshaft if I swap a 241 in it's place? Also, it seems I will need a new rear driveshaft when I do the rear springs and shackle flip. The pinon will be pointing at the Tcase, which is good, but I'll need a new DCV shaft from HAD prolly. I'll also be pulling the rear axle back 1.5" with 0-rates.

I'm debating spending the extra on a 241 and doing the SYE kit. Versus, keeping the 208, clocking it, and running new shafts. 241 + SYE is about $550. All I really get is a slightly lower 4L and SYE.

Is there a way to change the gearing in a 208 or 241?

Thanks, and I've got more parts coming. Ordered from ORD today, DIY tomorrow. I need a bigger garage. :)
 
K85 Octane said:
Thanks, and I've got more parts coming. Ordered from ORD today, DIY tomorrow. I need a bigger garage. :)
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You could always store those nice shiny new parts with me in my garage. Of course we have a lot of thieves in the area so if they disappear, I have no idea where they went and whose 1988 Suburban they went on. :rolleyes:
 
hahaha, uggg, laughing at my miserable parts depot of a garage

shoot, I got a crossmember, crossover draglink/ pitman, HD tierod, 0-rates, bushings, steering box brace, 1" body lift, and brakelines from ORD coming. From DIY: rear shackles, spring perches f/r, clocking ring, 14b diff cover, pinon guard, and inboard rear shock mounts. From EBay: EZ Wiring 21 kit, D44 diff guard, and new dome light w/ switches off a F**d Victoria I think. From Summit: Edelbrock headers, MSD Dist, and one light socket for my fuel gauge.

AHHHH this is the 3rd time now I've had another question to ask and can't seem to remember it 5 minutes after previously remembering it. gezus
 
What does anyone think about my transfercase question?^^^
I got a bunch of parts in recently, need pictures :)
Also, since I've got a new wiring kit, I figure I'll use the HighBeam indicator wire. I'm going to mount a very bright BLUE LED next to my green one. (the green one in the back that lights up my gear indicator) When the highbeams are on, the new blue LED will easily over power the green one, lighting my gear indicator BRIGHT blue, really bright, like flashlight bright lol. I think it will look awesome.
Also, I got some bushings for my rear leafs. I talked to Steve @ORD about mine. I seem to have 1.75 eyes, front and back. Need to talk to him again, half the bushings we ended up ordering are too small. This is what I have. Am I right? Also, do I remove the outter most sleeve, leaving just the leaf left? When I put the new poly ones in, there's no sleeve between the bushing and leaf eye?
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some small updates, the going is tough, most of the time there is no time, others I'm tired or lazy. The electrical is a tall order for me and I think that's slowed me down. I'm also looking to cut out the engine crossmember, another project I've never done before.
First: some show and tell, this is only a fraction of what came in recently.
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big :) s
a few things I've done on the gauges
I added another LED for my highbeam indicator. It shines on my shift indicator. I thought it would keep things simple and kinda unique. First picture is just with the gauge lights on, then the blue is with the highbeams.
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with the ever entertaining June Bugs smashing into things, work continued on the gauges lol.
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The PO cut the stereo hole and the metal dash behind it. Sucks, so I used the area for my last two gauges. The stereo will go in a Tuffy center console.
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I still need some SS screws and a few nice looking rivets to finish off the dash panels. Then it will be ready for the truck after wiring is done. While I was pulling wires out and saving the AC and dome stuff......I came across this things someone must have snuck into my truck. :confused: O well, in the pile of crap it goes. :haha:
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gezz, I had a June Bug land on me the other day, was the size of a golf ball. How can something so big and slow still be alive!!! It wasn't even orangish anymore, it was graying!!!!!!!
 
Crossmember is OUT!! I've got 4 rivets under my belt now lol
Air chiseled them SOBs out.:D
can't wait to do the rear shackle flip rivets. :doah:
currently working on putting ORD piece in, need to drill holes

and here's my switch idea.

#1 = headlights, dash lights, parking lights via relays
#2 = dome light override
#3 = acc
#4 = acc

I think this will be easier to wire up with the new wiring kit. Also, my dash lights no longer dim, so the dimmer part of the factor switch is not needed.




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well, no one might be interested in my build, but I'll keep the updates going. I tingle with updates, no mater how far apart lol. I worked on getting my cherokee shafts ready for the truck. I bought two at the junkyard, and one on ebay for much more money :doah:, a plan B I didn't need.

Here are some direct pictures of the two shafts I have.
One used 7/16 bolts and the other used 13mm. The pivot joints are slightly different on each, but the splines and "D" shape measure out the same with my calipers.
I heated each one and pulled them apart. Neither shaft had any rubber inside, only rust and the plastic "spacers" or sleeves. They didn't have any plastic or rubber pins visible from the outside.
Here is one pulled apart and ready to be welded. The other behind it.
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Here are the plastic spacers or sleeves some people have been finding. Don't throw them out. Even though I'm welding nuts on and using set screws doesn't mean I wouldn't mind the plastic taking up some slack.
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I snagged some SS set screws from work. I had some nuts in the garage that work :) I drilled a 1/4 hole, filed out the inside, and wire brushed the outside so it's ready for welding. The long bolt is there to get everything straight while welding. It fits tight.

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Here are the two ends. The part numbers on each shaft are different. However, the splines and "D" shape are both the same size.
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The shaft with the 13mm bolts, or the shaft that's not pulled apart and dirty, has a slightly shorter male end. The spacers are in different locations too, but it really doesn't affect the use of the shaft for our trucks.

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Got some more parts in today. DIY4X delivery
clocking ring
14b cover
pinon guard
spring plates for 14b and D44
lower shock mounts for 14b
rear shackle for my 56" leafs and ORD flip, 6" length
need to get this motor and wiring done damnit, the parts are READY!!:woot:
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Nice build so far. So you're going to put a bolt through the hole in the steering shaft? I'm not sure if that's a good idea. Maybe I'm not seeing exactly what you're doing, but that shaft has to be able to collapse in the event of a collision so it won't break through the firewall and impale the driver. I put the same shaft on my truck and I didn't worry about putting anything to try to hold the two pieces together. They won't come apart.

I'll be watching this build to see all your progress. Good luck!
 
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