CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
BENDER stays in hibernation with me
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
no pictures of the updates 
Got my mechanical fan back on, that was a PITA. The electric was so nice and clean.
got the mechanical oil gauge hooked up with the braided hose and all
almost done with camber shims, had to use the largest (1.5 degree) on the passenger side, though it's not enough. The driver is getting 5/8th degree. Both tires were pointing out on top and showed wear as such.
Once the shims are done and everything is back together, I've got my ECGS drive flanges going in. They are very nice pieces, glad I don't have to worry about breaking hubs.
Working on mounting my winch but the bumper mount holes are strangely off. I can mount the winch, but the fairlead hits the bottom tube, AND the cable hole is too high up. So that needs to be fixed.
Called FAST, they sent my computer back, so I'll be getting that back any day now. I think first thing I do..... drive it into work for the guys to see.
Also, and I've mentioned this before but never certified it. I'm calling the truck.........
Got my mechanical fan back on, that was a PITA. The electric was so nice and clean.
got the mechanical oil gauge hooked up with the braided hose and all
almost done with camber shims, had to use the largest (1.5 degree) on the passenger side, though it's not enough. The driver is getting 5/8th degree. Both tires were pointing out on top and showed wear as such.
Once the shims are done and everything is back together, I've got my ECGS drive flanges going in. They are very nice pieces, glad I don't have to worry about breaking hubs.
Working on mounting my winch but the bumper mount holes are strangely off. I can mount the winch, but the fairlead hits the bottom tube, AND the cable hole is too high up. So that needs to be fixed.
Called FAST, they sent my computer back, so I'll be getting that back any day now. I think first thing I do..... drive it into work for the guys to see.
Also, and I've mentioned this before but never certified it. I'm calling the truck.........
andyblack
Registered Loser
I'm going to call you...
Dr. Mindbender
Strange how the camber was off like that and the winch didn't want to mount up. That Blazer must have taken some hard landings at the dunes or something.
Maybe I should call you...
Dr. Framebender
Dr. Mindbender
Strange how the camber was off like that and the winch didn't want to mount up. That Blazer must have taken some hard landings at the dunes or something.
Maybe I should call you...
Dr. Framebender
well, oddly enough, if the truck was jumped, it seems the axle would bend the other direction. The top of the tires are out farther than the bottom, which is weird. It used to be a dually axle, under a completely stock regular cab dually.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I always thought the top of the tires were supposed to be sticking out a little farther than the bottom of the tires on all vehicles with solid front axles and most with A-arms too. That's how it is on mine.
That's how it is on mine.
hmmm, well I'm shooting for as close to zero as possible for best results. I suppose the opposite would be best for handling in the turns, so if I want them leaning just a tad one way, it would be inward @ the top. That's always been my line of though, but I've never set up camber before, only caster. My DD S10 is damn near zero camber, a touch on the negative side for handling.
For the few miles I did have it running, it seemed fine, but after running over some dirt, traveling 6 miles on the freeway, and another 4 on the streets, I can see bad outside tire wear in my future. Before that happens (and flushing $400 a tire down the drain) I'm gunna try to fix the camber.
Today I get the FAST computer back, but I gotta go to work
stupid work paying for everything but getting in the way 
. I hope to have it started again and have the O2 code fixed. Dunno, I'm worried.
For the few miles I did have it running, it seemed fine, but after running over some dirt, traveling 6 miles on the freeway, and another 4 on the streets, I can see bad outside tire wear in my future. Before that happens (and flushing $400 a tire down the drain) I'm gunna try to fix the camber.
Today I get the FAST computer back, but I gotta go to work
stupid work paying for everything but getting in the way . I hope to have it started again and have the O2 code fixed. Dunno, I'm worried.
andyblack
Registered Loser
That's a good idea. I do think you should consult an alignment guy or look in a shop manual first though. I'm pretty sure that a few degrees of positive camber is what you want. The opposite is true of a performance car with IFS. I just think that you will have a harder time turning the wheels if you camber them out. I'm not sure though. Just my thoughts.
What front axle do you have? I can't remember if it's a 10 bolt? If so, are your ball joints new? I thought you said you had recently replaced the ball joints or king pins or whatever you have but I can't remember.
What front axle do you have? I can't remember if it's a 10 bolt? If so, are your ball joints new? I thought you said you had recently replaced the ball joints or king pins or whatever you have but I can't remember.
D60, all new stuff, and running hydro assist. So, everything should be tight. Problems turning wont be an issue. LOL maybe I should have boned up on some of this stuff before diving in, but.......... what fun is that 
O well, the truck is back on the ground with my new fancy ECGS drive flanges (dummy slug in for 2wd ATM) As far as changing the camber again, I'll check after some driving.
O well, the truck is back on the ground with my new fancy ECGS drive flanges (dummy slug in for 2wd ATM) As far as changing the camber again, I'll check after some driving.
Workin the bugs out Got a leak on the top cap for the steering box
Got a leak on the top cap for the steering box
And a very short video with a little sound. I'll have better at some point 
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sounds and looks good!
Thank you. Put it back down again cause I'm getting some pinging under load. Lost my spring set for the dizzy so I'm waiting for a kit in the mail. Gotta fix the leak too, then it's just ready for some driving. Still need to fix rear window, check all bolts, put leaves back in, etc.
Winch is in the works. Hi Lift is mounts are almost done.
The rig is looking really good, I like that pic. Nice work.
Is the base going to interfere with your bottom headlight?
probably
My low beams are up top. Not sure if I'll care about the bottoms until I do some more offroading.
Found out part of my braking problems might be with the amount of vacuum the motor is pulling. Apparently it's only got 13 in.lb avg. I'm also getting rid of the factory prop valve. I've only got front brakes, the rears show no signs of wear. LOL it stops pretty damn good for only fronts So after the prop valve is gone, vacuum canister install, and more bleeding....I hope it's ready for Gorman.
So after the prop valve is gone, vacuum canister install, and more bleeding....I hope it's ready for Gorman.
For reference, My truck only pulls about 11" at idle, and it still runs the brakes fine.
I have the factory booster and the factory prop valve, but I put a wilwood prop valve after the factory one to turn the rear discs down, they were locking up early.
I have the factory booster and the factory prop valve, but I put a wilwood prop valve after the factory one to turn the rear discs down, they were locking up early.
When i adjusted my timing i hooked a vac gauge up and got it from 14 or so up to almost 19. Just a thought
Good point Adam, when I first started mine I was only at 8 or 9", but after limiting the mechanical to get the initial up without too much total I got it up to 11.
My point before was, at 13 inHg he should be able to use the brakes anyway.
My point before was, at 13 inHg he should be able to use the brakes anyway.
