I guess I had a model of a crewcab shortbed.
CK5
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Bertha - 2016 Chevy Silverado 3500HD
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
I fixed the tow rig model...
Now I'm digging into which trailer is going to work best. I started leaning towards a pierced frame deck over to avoid fenders as seen in the last post. However, I quickly realized the top of the camper AC unit is approaching 13'-5" with a 34" deck height and raising the camper 7" to avoid cutting holes in the deck for the sewer drain. The rear flip ramps also take up cargo space on the trailer with the truck moved forward to allow full operation.
The low deck 102" wide triple axle units are only a 26-27" deck height bringing the overall height back down closer to having the camper on the truck. But I still need a 7" spacer to avoid modifications of the deck for the sewer pipe. But, that make the bumper and landing work for getting into the back of the camper. I am also able to position the CUCV farther back, creating an 8 foot space between the camper and truck for extra cargo.
Now on to the fun part... or the engineering part. I pulled in specs from different trailers and the deckovers also tend to be 2000 lb heavier than the low deck option. I also cannot use the extra capacity over 21K rating with the current 2016 Chevy 3500HD as it is only rated for 21K towing with a gooseneck. If I upgraded the truck later, the newer models are rated higher, but I don't plan to replace this truck in the next decade or possibly longer.
So, focusing on the Lanmar H8 102" x 36', loads look good on the truck axles and trailer up to 3000 lb extra cargo, 1000 lb each location added between the bed of the truck, tool boxes under the camper, and the deck between the camper and CUCV.
Now I'm digging into which trailer is going to work best. I started leaning towards a pierced frame deck over to avoid fenders as seen in the last post. However, I quickly realized the top of the camper AC unit is approaching 13'-5" with a 34" deck height and raising the camper 7" to avoid cutting holes in the deck for the sewer drain. The rear flip ramps also take up cargo space on the trailer with the truck moved forward to allow full operation.
The low deck 102" wide triple axle units are only a 26-27" deck height bringing the overall height back down closer to having the camper on the truck. But I still need a 7" spacer to avoid modifications of the deck for the sewer pipe. But, that make the bumper and landing work for getting into the back of the camper. I am also able to position the CUCV farther back, creating an 8 foot space between the camper and truck for extra cargo.
Now on to the fun part... or the engineering part. I pulled in specs from different trailers and the deckovers also tend to be 2000 lb heavier than the low deck option. I also cannot use the extra capacity over 21K rating with the current 2016 Chevy 3500HD as it is only rated for 21K towing with a gooseneck. If I upgraded the truck later, the newer models are rated higher, but I don't plan to replace this truck in the next decade or possibly longer.
So, focusing on the Lanmar H8 102" x 36', loads look good on the truck axles and trailer up to 3000 lb extra cargo, 1000 lb each location added between the bed of the truck, tool boxes under the camper, and the deck between the camper and CUCV.
Another reason to go with the 36 foot over the 32 foot deck...
Nice to see someone actually figure all the correct weights and engineering on this. I follow a FB group called Crawler Haulers and everyone on there builds these kinds of setups and I swear they all live on flat ground and no one worries about weight or safety, they all just build what fits together.
I don't mind doing sketchy stuff as long as I know how sketchy I'm getting, and I'm not putting anyone at risk. Hauling 20,000+ lb down the highway at 70mph is not one of the areas I want sketchy though.
I was burned buying the camper where the actual weight is much higher than advertised. It did not help that I went to the dealer for a smaller model that didn't need a hitch extension and had to try and figure it all out in my head (with bad assumptions/info) when we realized that one was too small for two people with two dogs and changed to looking at a larger camper.
This time I am going to over engineer it, but still running into different manufacturers rating things differently on trailers. But at least I can make good assumptions this way.
More fun with the 3D printer. Center console insert for Bertha to hold the camper camera system display and get it off of the dash where it blocked visibility.
A little bit of a face lift started today. Would not have been possible without a friend's help, total time to fit and fully weld was about 10 hours.
View attachment 20260215_151049.mp4
View attachment 20260215_151049.mp4
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The plan is to send this bumper and 6 stock steel wheels in for satin black powder coat at the same time.
I've done a dozen or so of those. Looks great and so much better than those huge worthless factory bumpers. I do add a bunch of gusseting and bracing to the bare minimum mounts that Move does.
I agree, it needs more bracing at the mounting flange
I also found the design and directions lacking. I expected a tab and slot design where the pieces would nearly align themselves with a little room for adjustment. I found I basically had to eyeball it and guess most of the time.
What did the kit cost you?
$872 with tax and shipping included.
Quick Ai paint job preview. I did notask it to black out the grill, but I likei it.
Quick Ai paint job preview. I did notask it to black out the grill, but I likei it.
Yeah they're good but not great. I fully weld inside and out and add bracing and then all the grinding. Decent price though and way cheaper than any ready built ones.
And you cannot do any custom details if it is ready made and painted already
First (fast) test print for fitment to the sensor for perfect but snapped when removed due to print orientation. Second print, I rotated the part to a 45 degree angle during the print and it goes on and off without breaking.
Now to design in the latch that will hold it in the 3/16 plate. Then work on the outer set that land below the inner fog light opening.
Now to design in the latch that will hold it in the 3/16 plate. Then work on the outer set that land below the inner fog light opening.
Looks good! The factory bumpers are such dog shit!
What does it weigh?
What does it weigh?
I can lift it and move it around myself, I'd guess around 250-300 lb as it sits.
Looks good. Nice work. I would offer a suggestion to avoid soggy air filters come the rainy season.
Soggy air filter after a bumper swap? Yep. GM had a bulletin out on those trucks with aftermarket “Ranch Hand” style bumpers. The issue comes down to the fresh air inlet for the air filter box is located inside the passenger side fender. Most aftermarket bumpers are higher clearance and will have you trimming the inner fender liner to match the new bumper. Here is where the problem comes in.
Most of the time the fender liner is chopped off where it is easiest or more convenient to get to. This leaves an open cavity where road spray off the tire forces its way into the opening and eventually into the air box. The filter does keep the moisture from hitting the engine but if it’s really saturated some will pull through and cause a poor reading of the mass air sensor just past the air box lid. The code will derate the engine and have it running like crap.
So try to close off the bottom of the front fender in one way or another. You can’t avoid trimming the liner since the new bumper is much more angled in that area and much higher than stock. But you should be able to close the area off to block the majority of the spray off the tire. Meaning it don’t have to be submarine water tight but hits that area and drains down instead of getting sucked into the fender.
I remembered the bulletin as soon as I saw the pic with your new bumper on it. It made me laugh because one of my techs at the dealer got schooled by me when he failed to look for bulletins after having the same truck come in three times for the same problem. Replaced a mass air sensor twice and still didn’t fix it. I checked the codes on the third visit and sure enough the MAF code hit for this bulletin and it nailed the problem down to the filter in the pics had the same exact water damage as the one in the truck did. It had a full Ranch Hand Bumper up front. Cleaned the MAF, replaced the filter and sent a spare with the customer after explaining the issue. I knew where the guy lived up in the mountains and knew the bumper was for deer protection and not just the look so I knew he wouldn't put a stock bumper on it. He said he’d block off the area at home.
I only bring it up knowing where you are at can be wet at times. As my tech found out it’s hard to figure out why it kept setting the code it did.
Soggy air filter after a bumper swap? Yep. GM had a bulletin out on those trucks with aftermarket “Ranch Hand” style bumpers. The issue comes down to the fresh air inlet for the air filter box is located inside the passenger side fender. Most aftermarket bumpers are higher clearance and will have you trimming the inner fender liner to match the new bumper. Here is where the problem comes in.
Most of the time the fender liner is chopped off where it is easiest or more convenient to get to. This leaves an open cavity where road spray off the tire forces its way into the opening and eventually into the air box. The filter does keep the moisture from hitting the engine but if it’s really saturated some will pull through and cause a poor reading of the mass air sensor just past the air box lid. The code will derate the engine and have it running like crap.
So try to close off the bottom of the front fender in one way or another. You can’t avoid trimming the liner since the new bumper is much more angled in that area and much higher than stock. But you should be able to close the area off to block the majority of the spray off the tire. Meaning it don’t have to be submarine water tight but hits that area and drains down instead of getting sucked into the fender.
I remembered the bulletin as soon as I saw the pic with your new bumper on it. It made me laugh because one of my techs at the dealer got schooled by me when he failed to look for bulletins after having the same truck come in three times for the same problem. Replaced a mass air sensor twice and still didn’t fix it. I checked the codes on the third visit and sure enough the MAF code hit for this bulletin and it nailed the problem down to the filter in the pics had the same exact water damage as the one in the truck did. It had a full Ranch Hand Bumper up front. Cleaned the MAF, replaced the filter and sent a spare with the customer after explaining the issue. I knew where the guy lived up in the mountains and knew the bumper was for deer protection and not just the look so I knew he wouldn't put a stock bumper on it. He said he’d block off the area at home.
I only bring it up knowing where you are at can be wet at times. As my tech found out it’s hard to figure out why it kept setting the code it did.
