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Best paint for axles and such

Imron is good BUT!..WARNING!!

I mixed many gallons of Imron paint in my parts store career..its NASTY stuff,you MUST use a respirator,even when just mixing it..nothing holds up better than Imron,BUT...

I once walked into a body shop to deliver a quart of Imron to the guy painting a T-bird with it--he'd run short,and I had to book it there,to get him the last quart to him, before the rest had dried too much..I foolishly walked into the spray booth with no protection..I held my breath before I entered,and was only in there about 15 seconds,just long enough for him to sign the sales slip..

I made it outside,then got very dizzy,and started peuking my guts out!--I noticed the vomit was the same green as the T-bird was,and knew right away I was in trouble..--my nose felt like it was glued shut,I couldn't breathe through it!...I recovered somewhat after sitting in the delivery truck for a few minutes,then drove back to the store..I told my boss what happened,and he had the other driver take me to the hospital right down the street..

I had to have X rays taken of my lungs,and there was some question about whether or not I'd have permanent lung damage--thankfully I had only a few weeks of wheezing and coughing up chunks of phlem,and the symptoms subsided..I was told the "hardener" in Imrom,when mixed with the paint,releases Isosyanurates,the same poison gas that killed a whole village in India not long before this happened!!..and that many painters had died ,or had permanent respiratory damage from ONE breif exposure!.:eek1:

I sold most of the Imron to local concrete plants,they used it on their cement mixer trucks and other machinery..it holds up incredibly well--they used to steam clean the trucks weekly,and some painted 10 years ago still shine like new!..if a panel gets dented,it doesn't crack or peel,it stretches with the metal ,its a lot more forgiving than most other coatings..

But I warn anyone who uses it to be SURE to use a GOOD respirator,and only to use it outdoors if at all possible..its nice to have a rust free nicely painted truck--but if your DEAD you won't get to enjoy it...:eek1: ..


POR-15 has the advantage of being a "rust converter" paint,that you can apply right over rust!--most other paints won't work well under those conditions..in fact,I've found POR-15 works BETTER if the metal is rusted..I noticed on clean sandblasted metal,it doesn't seem to adhere as well,or harden as much as it did on rusty areas..it seems like it NEEDS rust to "activate" it or something..:crazy:
 
You guys are all making me hate POR 15, and I'll garauntee I've brushed more gallons of it than anyone here... Been using it in boats for 15 yrs..

It is not the "be all" that everyone makes it out to be.. And no, it is not a "real" paint.. Moistured cured is not a chemical catalyst.. It's a "miracle cure" type product that is touted higher than it should be.

Fine, got some surface rust? Feeling lazy? Don't wanna prep it properly? slap that sh*t on.. Does a good job of hiding it for quite awhile... But it will peel eventually..

For bare steel it's freakin stupid to use it... You go thru all the trouble to blast, etc, why not put a proper refinishing system on it? zinc, epoxy, urethane... The title of this thread was for the BEST paint... Anyone who thinks anything out of a rattlecan comes close to a catalyzed urethane is smoking crack..

Bob, trust me, there's plenty of paint products out there as brutal or worse than Imron.. Heck, zinc chromate kicks it's a$$.. I sprayed 100's of gallons of Imron over the years and have smoked for 25 yrs, lungs are clean as a whistle... Thankfully...

Now my cholesterol soaked arteries where another story.. Thats why I had to have the full blown lung checkup, all the lung specifac tests, and they came out perfectly clean... My understanding of isocyanides is they generally give you liver and kidney issues mostly, not lung...
 
I think the popularity of POR-15 can be attributed to the ease of application as Goldwing2000 said. I sandblasted my frame by tacking up plastic sheets in the garage and rigging up a fan to exhaust it. Then I cleaned it with their cleaner and used the Metal Ready to etch it before I painted. Total outlay was very minor by comparison to taking the frame to a shop and having it painted. So, "best" might even be something else besides Imron if you have unlimited money. Hell, replace the entire thing with a stainless steel frame. For the money though, I like POR-15. In a similar vein, I wish the Herculiner was closer to the Line-X product and I would just do that myself too. But, no matter how many coats of Herculiner you put on, it isn't rubbery and isn't knee friendly. So some things are worth paying for.
 
best thing to do with a freshly sand blasted part that you want to coat with POR, set it outside for a few weeks. when my uncle built his car trailer, they did just that (our POR dealer buddy helped build it). blasted the deck, drug it outside the shop, and let it sit for 3 or 4 weeks. rusty as hell, they drug it back in the shop, and applied the POR to it. their only mistake was the topcoat on the trailer deck. it just didnt hold up for some reason. its flaking off pretty bad in some places, but the POR underneath looks just as good as the day it was sprayed.

FWIW, if you intend to spray it, make absolutely 200% positive that you have no moisture in your air lines. it'll harden in the gun if there is moisture in the lines, and the gun is then junk.
 
Deleted? Keep up the comments Ryoken, it always helps to hear differing opinions from people with differing experiences..... I've had great luck with POR-15 and am a fan but others have had poor experiences. I like to hear them all....
 
Eh, it served no purpose other than to piss Beater off... :o

I'm not saying it's a bad product... Like I said, I've used it extensively over the years on rusty V-drives, etc in bilges.. And I have seen it fail often.. Usually takes a few years, but it eventually will peel off from the rust underneath continuing to move.. Contrary to what many say, it is NOT a rust converter, it does not convert it to black oxide... It mearly slows the process down by sealing it in...

Your case is different, and may hold up better... I still feel a couple rattlecans of zinc with epoxy primer over it would be more durable over bare steel, but your frame may prove me wrong...

For rust, I'm much more in favor of using a converter, than roughing the black oxide up and encapsilating it in epoxy.. Even than you are limited in how deep the converter penetrates..

I'm an oldschool body guy, I'm a firm believer in the best way to stop rust is to remove it, whether by blasting, cuttng, etc.. Metal conditioner, zinc, epoxy to follow will bring best results.. When I resto'd mixers daily, it was my existence... The daily battle...

I understand it can be a cheaper alternative (tho POR15 has doubled in price in the last 10 yrs, mainly due to it's popularity, I assume). I just get a bug about how it gets touted as this "cure all" product, by people who don't know or understand the alternatives... People are always looking for the easy way out... Not me, I pride myself on doing things right and get nightmares about cutting corners... If that involves extra hrs of crappy labor and a few $'s, so be it...
 
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One other little personal tidbit here...

When I eventually do a D60 for my rig, you can be damn sure it's gonna be prepped to he!!... If I'm gonna invest that kinda coin in a part you can be damn sure the whole things gonna be flapwheeled, blasted, etc to make sure it's super clean and smooth for refinishing.. Than coated in a manner to ensure all parts are as durable as possible...

Seems silly to me to pay $1000 or more for a part, put a few new parts on a rusty housing, slather it with POR15, and be content with that... But thats just my opinion, worth $.02 after taxes.... :wink1:
 
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ryoken said:
It is not the "be all" that everyone makes it out to be.. And no, it is not a "real" paint.. Moistured cured is not a chemical catalyst.. It's a "miracle cure" type product that is touted higher than it should be.
Whether it comes in a can or comes in the air, anything that promotes, aids, or initiates a chemical reaction is a catalyst. A true catalyst is not consumed in the reaction. Hence "Catalytic converter."

MISF got on the POR "bandwagon" ~12-15 years ago. He has had some spectacular failures with it. In all cases the problem has been determined, by him, to be poor prep. He is not a pro body guy nor has he ever been one. He is one of those fairly capable home garage body & paint guys that everyone likely knows one of.

I don't think it's the be-all, cure-all, but it does have a place in the paint tools.

POR is also not the only Moisture cured Polyurethane paint on the market. I don't mean the johnny-come-latelys either (Rust Bullet etc.) Google " Moisture cured Polyurethane paint" and see what you get.

Off to paint the Baja project's engine bay.....
 
I have to say that that my best bang for the buck so far has been powder coating. The place local to me completely sand-blasted my front axle and put on a super-thick professional quality powder coat for less than $200.

This thing was seriously fubared with rust when I got it and now it looks like it's been dipped in chocolate. :D

Once it's put together, I'll have to post up some before and after pictures.
 

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