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Best place online to get tie down straps/chain & binders

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84_Chevy_K10

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Just like the title says, have you guys found a good source for straps/chain/binders to hold your vehicle to your trailer?

This stuff is pretty expensive (cheapest I've seen 3" tie downs go for is about $25 each) so if y'all have a source for the stuff that is a little more economical, spill the beans!
 
I paid $99 for 4 3" straps with ratchets and axle straps with wear sleeves. But I can't find the link right now. I'll try to find the receipt, but my receipt folder has grown rather large. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
I have the AW Direct catalog. I guess I was kinda hoping that this stuff was a little more economical. I'm going to check Sam's club this week.

Do you guys all use 3" straps? I think I will probably use chains to bind the truck down and a strap at either end to compress the suspension a little bit to keep the wobbling down. My tow rig is a single wheel truck so anything to help stability will help me out.
 
I bought my 10,000 lb rated Allied straps from Sam's Club for $12.57 ea...

I bought a 3/8"-16' #70 chain from Samsel Supply in Cleveland...for $24.00...and cut that in half...

It cost me less than $100...
for 6 straps and 2 chains..
 
I use Northern Tool
I use axle straps and racecar tiedowns. I have strapped both ways, chains to the frame, and straps to the axles. The axlestraps and ratchet tiedowns work the best IMO.

I have never had a problem with bobbing or swaying at all.

John
 
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I bought my 10,000 lb rated Allied straps from Sam's Club for $12.57 ea...

[/ QUOTE ]

Those are not 10,000 lb rated straps. Those straps only have a 3,300 lb working load limit. I am afraid that is insufficient for a 6,000 lb truck although tempting to go that route at that cost. That 10,000 lb number is the ultimate breaking strength under the most ideal of conditions. The ultimate strength of a Grade 70 chain in 3/8" is 19,000 lbs. I highly doubt that anyone would attempt using 3/8" chain to hold a 12,000 lb load so I'm a little queesy about trying to use it to secure 6,000 lbs of truck.

I've found 20' lengths of 3/8 grade 70 chain locally for $40 but they're made in China. I was quite disappointed that I could not find anything USA made here locally, not even from my work.

Nobody locally has a 3" wide strap either which has a 5,000 lb working load limit. AW Direct wants $70 for just ONE 3" strap.

I intend on using chains front and rear to hold the truck as well as a strap to each axle, (undecided if I want to risk it with 2" straps, even in combination with chain) then use a 2" 3,300 lb strap to hold the suspension down slightly to reduce the bouncing.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I bought my 10,000 lb rated Allied straps from Sam's Club for $12.57 ea...

[/ QUOTE ]

Those are not 10,000 lb rated straps. Those straps only have a 3,300 lb working load limit. I am afraid that is insufficient for a 6,000 lb truck although tempting to go that route at that cost. That 10,000 lb number is the ultimate breaking strength under the most ideal of conditions. The ultimate strength of a Grade 70 chain in 3/8" is 19,000 lbs. I highly doubt that anyone would attempt using 3/8" chain to hold a 12,000 lb load so I'm a little queesy about trying to use it to secure 6,000 lbs of truck.

I've found 20' lengths of 3/8 grade 70 chain locally for $40 but they're made in China. I was quite disappointed that I could not find anything USA made here locally, not even from my work.

Nobody locally has a 3" wide strap either which has a 5,000 lb working load limit. AW Direct wants $70 for just ONE 3" strap.

I intend on using chains front and rear to hold the truck as well as a strap to each axle, (undecided if I want to risk it with 2" straps, even in combination with chain) then use a 2" 3,300 lb strap to hold the suspension down slightly to reduce the bouncing.

[/ QUOTE ]

Although I agree with you on the rating points.
I do not believe I need to have each strap (four to tie down my truck one on each corner) strong enough to hold the truck suspended from the sky.
What we do is secure it down on the trailer to keep it from bouncing off.
How much weight do you think the truck will exert on the straps? And if you want to say how about if the trailer rolls and now the straps have to carry the full weight, well if it rols hell you think it's gonna matter?
/forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
Anyway, that is why your tires are rated to carry 1/4 of the trucks weight not the full weight.
If my truck weighs 7000 lbs I think 4x3300 = 13200lbs that means double the weight, a saftey ratio of 2:1 is good in my opinion.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I like overkill too but sometimes my wallet brings me back down to earth.
/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I do understand that and I think I'm going to pick up four more of those 2" straps, but use chain and binders at either end for additional assurance from abrasion of the straps (never know).

I love my new trailer but my biggest fear is losing a truck from a trailer and rightfully so. I just want to make sure I do the right thing for my pocketbook and my truck.

What are y'all's opinions on crossing the straps front and rear to help with lateral movement?
 
[ QUOTE ]
I do understand that and I think I'm going to pick up four more of those 2" straps, but use chain and binders at either end for additional assurance from abrasion of the straps (never know).

I love my new trailer but my biggest fear is losing a truck from a trailer and rightfully so. I just want to make sure I do the right thing for my pocketbook and my truck.

What are y'all's opinions on crossing the straps front and rear to help with lateral movement?

[/ QUOTE ]

I always cross my straps for that reason.
And yeah I agree on wanting some assurance that your truak is safe, but I am an engineer so I tend to take calculated risks and work with numbers a lot.
/forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
In the front I cross them. Each strap goes around the axle just outboard of the springs and attaches to the opposite corner of the trailer. But in the back, I don't like that much angle due to the possibility of rapid deceleration in an accident. I would rather have those take a more linear loading. So, they each go around the snout of the diff housing and tie to the side of the rear beam at each side of the center opening (open center trailer).
 
Ok then, sounds like a plan. Cross the front most straps, straight straps in the rear, and chains/binders front and rear just in case something catches and were to cut the strap, they're there to catch them. I'm also going to strap the suspension down slightly to help with the wobble.

Sound like a plan? It will require six straps, two chains, and two binders, but it will give me piece of mind.
 
Sounds like a bit over kill, but sounds like a good plan otherwise; with a few exceptions.

Pulling down the suspension "a little" sound like it might cause some hard "thumping" from the rig when you hit a bump, compress a little, and it rebounds into the straps. Might even do some damage depending... Try it without the suspension pulled down. I tow my truggy with only the axles tied down, and even with it's limber suspension, I never have any issue with it.

And my rear straps aren't really straight, more of a "V" with the back (trailer) mounts about 2.5' wide or so, and going around the snout on the front. Basically my axle straps go under the axle tube on one side, up over the pinion snout, and down under the other tube. Both rear axle straps are installed this way and attached to ratchets. The bottom one is pulled down first, then the top one. If you do it backwards, the top one will not let the bottom shift to center to load.

And a safety chain/strap is always a good idea. I used to run one on long highway trips, but I’ve gotten lazy and didn’t run it on the last trip to Las Cruces. My safety chain is an actual transport chain with “J hook”, “T hooks”, etc. and it’s pretty easy to hook up. 20’ IIRC…
 
I agree, overkill. Why buy straps, knowing you feel the need to back them up with chains? Not that I don't agree, I don't trust straps, but why not just go with some overkill chains and be done? Also, I prefer to chain the axles, and let the rig float on its suspension. This has never caused a problem, whether its just my jeep, or a heavy truck on the trailer.

Here's what works for me: Two lengths of 3/8" chain, one for the front, one for the rear. I attach one front corner (around the axle tube) to the trailer frame, and then the opposite corner in the rear (around the axle tube) using binders. The only problem I ever had with this setup is when I forgot to tie a binder closed once and the rig moved a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Note: always make sure your binders are tied closed so they can't pop open.
 
I have no problem trusting straps that are in good shape and used correctly. Perfectly safe.

And my main reason for straps. It used to take a good 15-20 minutes to load my truggy with chains. Getting the binders just right, dragging those heavy things around, trying to get into position, dropping down in cracks on my trailer boards or any place else convenient for them to hang. Often "shaking loose"; requiring a refit after a few miles as the chains settle in. Took a lot of work just unloading too.

With straps, I can drive up to the trailer and be on the road in 5 minutes easily, faster if my son is with me and we take one end each. Check the load in a few miles, and if it is loosened up (very rarely) a couple of clicks is all I need to tighten it back down. Unloading is about 2 minutes, 60 seconds tops with my son helping... Light and easily stored as well…
 
Well I'll take your advice and try not tying the frame down first. So, that'll make four straps and two chains.

I refuse to trust straps only. The only straps I can find locally have 10,000 lb breaking strengths under the most ideal conditions. A 3/8" grade 70 transport chain has a 19,000 lb breaking strength.

The reason I'm buying the straps is that I think I can cinch the truck down tighter with them than a chain and allow for less movement.

I guess I'm paranoid, but I've seen some pretty scary pics posted of rigs that fell off of trailers.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Well I'll take your advice and try not tying the frame down first. So, that'll make four straps and two chains.

I refuse to trust straps only. The only straps I can find locally have 10,000 lb breaking strengths under the most ideal conditions. A 3/8" grade 70 transport chain has a 19,000 lb breaking strength.

The reason I'm buying the straps is that I think I can cinch the truck down tighter with them than a chain and allow for less movement.

I guess I'm paranoid, but I've seen some pretty scary pics posted of rigs that fell off of trailers.

[/ QUOTE ]

Keep in mind...Baddog lives in AZ...
He's not running a trailer on roads in the Midwest...
I have towed with/without my frame tied down...
It was like towing a jack-in-a-box...going down #76 and #30..

It may not be as bad...if I had radial tires on my trailer..

I've towed my rig over 1400 miles this year..
I haven't HURT anything on my rig...
Seriously...if you can hurt your rig...by strapping it to a trailer..
I'd put it back in the garage...before you hurt it on the trails.. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

Definately experiment..to see if you notice a difference..

AS far as USA chain goes...
Do a search on www.thomasregister.com
Look for crane, chain and lifting companies...
You should find someone... /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
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