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Best SBC / BBC Mini Starter

Shawn

Shawn

Nuckin Futz!
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My brand new Carquest direct drive starter is taking a crap not starting when it get hot. I have the Ford solenoid kit so its not that. Purchased an aftermarket gear-reduction starter but the fitment on it sucks and is too close to the headers.

So.... Now looking at the GM factory gear reduction starters. I know people have talked about them here but I could not find the correct year and application. If I missed the thread, please point me in the right direction.

When I Google search someone mentions 96 C1500 with the 350. Someone else mentions 2000 chevy 3500 with a 7.4. Someone else mentions an S-10. Not sure what the difference is. I think I may go with the 2000 C3500 with 454. My flywheel is a 168 tooth. SBC.

Any other suggestions?

For a 168 tooth flywheel. (staggered mount holes) SBC & BBC
In looking for one to turn my 11.25:1 compression 454 BBC I was in the same boat, mini starters were expensive with little to no warranty (or you've gotta ship um out) So i did allota research to find a good OEM type replacement with more cranking power.
I sourced one from a 2000 chevy 3500 truck with a 7.4L
The auto zone part number (P/N 9990S) is what i used.
It's a gear reduction "mini" starter. much smaller that the original delco. Which is good for header clearance and about 7lbs lighter.
Also, these starters used metric bolts originally, So go get yourself 2ea bolts from the GM dealer (P/N 12338064) cost $1,50ea these will let you properly mount that starter to your GM block. It works fantastically on mine, for the last 3 years. the cranking difference is night and day! and its got a lifetime warranty from a store i can find on the road.
Click to expand...

You can see the fitment on the Proform aftermarket. If I move it over one hole its against the header and a little too close.
starter1.jpg

Carquest Stock Direct Drive vs Proform Gear Reduction
starter2.jpg

Edit- and yes, I know I'm missing some header collector nuts. My stainless fab guy must have left those loose when he did the exhaust. Sigh...
 
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Tilton has been pretty good for me.
 
I picked this one up for the 8.1 off of Amazon. I've not used it yet, but the unit came in well packaged and with a diagnostic sheet proving the output under load. Good reviews on Amazon too.

Stock style gear reduction starter
 
Price on the Denso is a little spendy. Looks like a nice piece though.
https://www.amazon.com/Denso-281-8002-New-Starter-Motor/dp/B008B675YY

I think I might have the same issue with the Tilton. Too close to the header. Pricey as well.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tilt...ter-Chevy-V8-V6-153-and-168-Tooth,413899.html

The one on Amazon looks good and really affordable. Seems to have decent reviews. I did see some people here suggest the DB starters.

I'm willing to spend the money on a GOOD starter and I'm finding some stock gear reductions, new (not rebuilt) for around 130 with discount.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-starter-new-6449sn/3180002-P
 
I run the powermaster on both of my big blocks and I installed them on a few other SBC/BBC applications. Never let me down.
 
Shawn said:
Price on the Denso looks spendy
https://www.amazon.com/Denso-281-8002-New-Starter-Motor/dp/B008B675YY

I think I might have the same issue with the Tilton. Too close to the header. Pricey as well.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tilt...ter-Chevy-V8-V6-153-and-168-Tooth,413899.html

The one on Amazon looks good and really affordable. Seems to have decent reviews. I did see some people here suggest the DB starters.

I'm willing to spend the money on a GOOD starter and I'm finding some stock gear reductions, new for around 150.
Click to expand...
I was running a Denso on the 5.3 but it doesn't cross over to the big block. I never had a problem with it. It was spendy but proved to be reliable.

The DB unit is an unknown quantity for me at least. Reviews are good, price was very reasonable so the risk is minimal. I'll report the results once we get the 8.1 running.
 
I mentioned the Tilton because I had one that was flawless on my old K10. It wasn’t a daily but it got beat on a lot between mud bogging and wheeling.

That said, my current Blazer has a clockable mini starter from Skip White Performance ($80 on their eBay store). I have it set with the solenoid at 6 o’clock and it works great but I don’t have a ton of run time on it yet.
 
beags86 said:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...jhtzoMEJ8Uo3__xkCLHA2E90NFfGTXUQaAtY8EALw_wcB
Click to expand...
I saw that price on summit too but thought maybe I got the wrong one since the pictures were wrong. 194 is not bad.
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/dnp-281-8002_xl.jpg

skunked said:
I run the powermaster on both of my big blocks and I installed them on a few other SBC/BBC applications. Never let me down.
Click to expand...
It looks like the Powermaster, Tilton, and my Proform all have the same universal design so they accept either flywheel. The problem with that design is it puts it too close to my header and hits the mounting flange. If I had another style of header, it would probably be fine. They are Headman ball/socket collectors. I can modify the billet piece but then I have issues if I need to return it.

ZooMad75 said:
I was running a Denso on the 5.3 but it doesn't cross over to the big block. I never had a problem with it. It was spendy but proved to be reliable.

The DB unit is an unknown quantity for me at least. Reviews are good, price was very reasonable so the risk is minimal. I'll report the results once we get the 8.1 running.
Click to expand...
Good to know on the Denso.

nvrenuf said:
I mentioned the Tilton because I had one that was flawless on my old K10. It wasn’t a daily but it got beat on a lot between mud bogging and wheeling.

That said, my current Blazer has a clockable mini starter from Skip White Performance ($80 on their eBay store). I have it set with the solenoid at 6 o’clock and it works great but I don’t have a ton of run time on it yet.
Click to expand...
Good to know! The stock ones are appealing since it bolts up and not have to rotate it or modify anything to make it work.
 
yblow said:
Same same for mine. No problems 11:1

I noticed on my power master it also has 3 mounting bolts if your block has it. Not sure if it matters.
Click to expand...
Have the powermaster model with the 3 bolt holes? My block has 3 holes but I was only using 2 diagonally on the last starter which most of them do.
 
What about trimming the mounting block on a mini starter? You could trim it back to the inboard side of the unused hole without risking integrity. Just pick a brand where the mounting block is a separate piece from the body, if you ever have to replace it you can reuse the block.
 
Shawn said:
Have the powermaster model with the 3 bolt holes? My block has 3 holes but I was only using 2 diagonally on the last starter which most of them do.
Click to expand...

I used the two hole diagonal style on both the SBC and BBC.
 
nvrenuf said:
What about trimming the mounting block on a mini starter? You could trim it back to the inboard side of the unused hole without risking integrity. Just pick a brand where the mounting block is a separate piece from the body, if you ever have to replace it you can reuse the block.
Click to expand...
I thought about that but it puts the starter REALLY close to the header. My old starter (larger) was not that close. Then if I need to return it I am screwed.

yblow said:
View attachment 348962
Click to expand...
Thanks! Thats cool

skunked said:
I used the two hole diagonal style on both the SBC and BBC.
Click to expand...
Thats what my old starter had. Never seen one that had 3 bolts. I wonder if that would work on a 6.2 since they are known for breaking blocks with 2 bolts.
 
Shawn said:
I thought about that but it puts the starter REALLY close to the header. My old starter (larger) was not that close. Then if I need to return it I am screwed.


Thanks! Thats cool


Thats what my old starter had. Never seen one that had 3 bolts. I wonder if that would work on a 6.2 since they are known for breaking blocks with 2 bolts.
Click to expand...

Some early 70's GM vehicles had a starter with a 3 bolt cast iron nose,they were fairly uncommon though..

A 6.2 diesel may have the same bolt pattern as a gas V8,but its starter drive has a different tooth count--the flex plate does too,139 teeth VS 153 or 168..and its externally balanced..not sure if one of these mini-starters would last long on a 6.2...as long as you have the brace from the starter motor to the block they usually don't have any mounting bolt issues..
(I suspect many that do have them because the starter had to be replaced so many times they strip the threads,on top of being under extreme stress from the high compression of the diesel--also its easy to crack the nose on the starter and once that happens the bolts are very vulnerable to breaking or the block casting getting ruined )..
 
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