Best SBC / BBC Mini Starter

[dyeager535]

This is a Powermaster 9600 on my truck (168 tooth flywheel, SBC with Hedman stainless headers) not sure if the pic helps.. Battery cable had gotten hot with the last setup, only complaint is that the terminals aren't all on the "inboard" side of the starter to keep them better protected. Starter mount is a bit close to the header, but poly engine/trans mounts, doesn't contact. Could trim the starter mount if I had to obviously.

Also managed to run it with one bolt, when one fell out on a decently long road trip lol.

Got the starter for free from a guy, had been running it on his circle track car for awhile. No idea why or what he changed to. Cranks the L31 effortlessly, so much better than the original starters, in pretty much every regard.

 

[USSkoval]

So.... Now looking at the GM factory gear reduction starters. I know people have talked about them here but I could not find the correct year and application. If I missed the thread, please point me in the right direction.

When I Google search someone mentions 96 C1500 with the 350. Someone else mentions 2000 chevy 3500 with a 7.4. Someone else mentions an S-10. Not sure what the difference is. I think I may go with the 2000 C3500 with 454. My flywheel is a 168 tooth. SBC.

Any other suggestions?

All three of those applications use the same starter. That design started in '95 I believe. By '96 for sure. It was used on all the trucks and vans with 168 tooth flywheel (staggered bolt pattern). That includes the 4.3, the small block and the big block.

If you happen to need the same style starter, but for a 153 tooth flywheel (straight bolt pattern) then get a starter for an LT1 in a B-body or F-body.

 

[Shawn]

Some early 70's GM vehicles had a starter with a 3 bolt cast iron nose,they were fairly uncommon though..

A 6.2 diesel may have the same bolt pattern as a gas V8,but its starter drive has a different tooth count--the flex plate does too,139 teeth VS 153 or 168..and its externally balanced..not sure if one of these mini-starters would last long on a 6.2...as long as you have the brace from the starter motor to the block they usually don't have any mounting bolt issues..
(I suspect many that do have them because the starter had to be replaced so many times they strip the threads,on top of being under extreme stress from the high compression of the diesel--also its easy to crack the nose on the starter and once that happens the bolts are very vulnerable to breaking or the block casting getting ruined )..

Good to know! I have two new spare starters for my M1008 with the 6.2. 12v and a 24v starter. Was considering 12v conversion but had great luck with the 24v system so I think I will keep it and so far the starter the truck came with is working great.... knock on wood.... Anyway, wasn't sure how the newer gear reduction starters work but I remember many advice to stick with the direct drive on the 6.2. I have to replace the flywheel so I'm not looking toward doing that job. I'm hoping I can leave the starter alone when the trans gets removed.

This is a Powermaster 9600 on my truck (168 tooth flywheel, SBC with Hedman stainless headers) not sure if the pic helps.. Battery cable had gotten hot with the last setup, only complaint is that the terminals aren't all on the "inboard" side of the starter to keep them better protected. Starter mount is a bit close to the header, but poly engine/trans mounts, doesn't contact. Could trim the starter mount if I had to obviously.

Also managed to run it with one bolt, when one fell out on a decently long road trip lol.

Got the starter for free from a guy, had been running it on his circle track car for awhile. No idea why or what he changed to. Cranks the L31 effortlessly, so much better than the original starters, in pretty much every regard.

Free is the best. I got a free starter from Toby Erwin (moneypit) but it never fit for some reason. I still have it. Anyway I'm not sure why yours fits better than mine. Mine is much closer than that. I know you can rotate it but I think I will just return it. Don't want to modify it either. I hope Advance Auto takes it back.

All three of those applications use the same starter. That design started in '95 I believe. By '96 for sure. It was used on all the trucks and vans with 168 tooth flywheel (staggered bolt pattern). That includes the 4.3, the small block and the big block.

If you happen to need the same style starter, but for a 153 tooth flywheel (straight bolt pattern) then get a starter for an LT1 in a B-body or F-body.

Ok good to know. Not sure why that guy was suggesting the 2000 3500 starter but its possible its a different part number. Not sure why.

Thanks to all!

I went ahead and ordered the cheaper $55 DB one on Amazon. I wanted to try it first and see how it holds up. Really hard to beat that price. I thought about getting 2 and keep one for a spare. The PowerMasters and Denso are tempting. Hopefully I won't regret it on the trail.

 

[diesel4me]

I have a gear reduction starter in both my 6.2's now,factory ones off 6.5's..they do crank over faster,and tend to let the batteries last longer when you have to crank the piss out of them on a cold morning..they must drain less amps than the direct drive monster ingot..

I kept the rebuilt Delco direct drive one that was in my pickup,it was failing to kick in sometimes,I have not checked it out to see if it was the solenoid,I think it was the wiring not delivering enough voltage to engage the solenoid because the gear reduction one did the same dam thing for awhile after I installed it..I deleted the neutral safety switch and that seemed to fix it,and it hasn't acted up so far yet..

I guess GM put a 139 tooth flex plate and different starter drive tooth count on diesels to get them to spin faster ?..
The 24V starters seem to rarely give any grief,I guess they tend to get less abused from low voltage compared to a 12V unit..starters don't like low voltage,they get real hot and start smoking fast..weak batteries kill many of them..

 

[beags86]

The only time you will regret not getting the denso is the next time your changing it.
Otherwise you will be fine....

 

[Snoots]

I got mine from DB Electrical. Permanent Magnet type mini. Works very well, moderate price, low weight, leaves lots of space and plenty of ugga dugga!

 

[bablazer73]

99% of these “high torque” starters are based on a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter. My local reman shop, who also sponsored the old race car, makes them in house. He buys the mounts and fits them on. We used to get them for 75-80 bucks. He’d retail them at 125. Spun my 14.5-1 484 with no issues! My buddy has one on his 14-1 555. I had one on my 10-1 572. I’d check a local reman shop, if you have one.
But I’m a support small local business kinda guy!

 

[folkenheath]

The thread title says the "best", so you can't leave out these guys. Many drag racers that are cranking over large big blocks with 16:1 compression swear by them...

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Starters/Completes-and-Kits.aspx


I am running a Tilton 4000 with the 139 tooth flexplate in my Regal. My truck is still a stock Delco.

I've had good luck with these too:

https://www.csr-performance.com/shop/category.da/starters/mini-high-torque-chevrolet

 

[Shawn]

I got mine from DB Electrical. Permanent Magnet type mini. Works very well, moderate price, low weight, leaves lots of space and plenty of ugga dugga!

Good to hear. Thats what I got.

99% of these “high torque” starters are based on a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter. My local reman shop, who also sponsored the old race car, makes them in house. He buys the mounts and fits them on. We used to get them for 75-80 bucks. He’d retail them at 125. Spun my 14.5-1 484 with no issues! My buddy has one on his 14-1 555. I had one on my 10-1 572. I’d check a local reman shop, if you have one.
But I’m a support small local business kinda guy!

Nice! So far it fits great. Started up but had minor issue with the old metal jumper I used on the old starter. You can't use jumpers with the remote solenoid with these high torque starters. You can still use an external relay or solenoid but it can only be the smaller trigger wire. The large battery cable has to be connected directly to the battery.

Fits really nice!


Out of the box:

The thread title says the "best", so you can't leave out these guys. Many drag racers that are cranking over large big blocks with 16:1 compression swear by them...

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Starters/Completes-and-Kits.aspx


I am running a Tilton 4000 with the 139 tooth flexplate in my Regal. My truck is still a stock Delco.

I've had good luck with these too:

https://www.csr-performance.com/shop/category.da/starters/mini-high-torque-chevrolet

I agree those are some great starters. Not sure why but the billet piece on mine hit my header. You can see in that first picture, if I moved it over for the 168 tooth, it would hit the header. I wanted to stay away from that style dual flywheel fitment design. I know some here had luck with no clearance issues.