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best t-case

Beefiest...205 for sure. Gear drive, cast iron. Fine for a DD, weekend rig, or dedicated wheeler.

The 208 and 241 have deeper gearing, but chain drive, weaker cases and are slip yoke design. There are SYE kits for the 241, and with some work the 208 can be SYE'd using dodge parts. Both good for DD weekend warrior. Good also for a dedicated wheeler if SYE'd and heavily skid plated (IMHO)

700R4/208(or 241) is often referred to as the poor man's doubler...so they definitely shouldn't be overlooked.

Rene
 
what would you say is the best stock t-case, and why, just wanted to know everyones opinions

The Best is a NP203 range box with an adapter to an NP205. Double low gearing capability, cast iron cases, all gear driven. :bow:
 
Add an NV4500 and it's a 90W orgy of gear driven, cast iron goodness!

DSC00984.jpg


Rene
 
Add an NV4500 and it's a 90W orgy of gear driven, cast iron goodness!

DSC00984.jpg


Rene

especially with a 6.5 turbo infront of it !! thanks for all your help with that stuff maybe someday I'll put that drive train in an actaul rig lol
 
LOL...my 6.2 and that NV4500/203/205 plus my 60/14 are all sitting in my garage not attached to any vehicle right now. :doah:

Going into the CrewCab this spring though!

Rene
 
100.78:1 crawl ratio, 32 spline throughout, triple stick, 1410 yokes, smooth shifting with a .73:1 OD.

I put a whopping 500 miles on this combo, never wheeled it, then parted out the K5. :doah:

Had the good sense to keep this stuff though. ;)

It is heavy, and quite long though. If I was still building a K5 I'd go Stak, or Atlas to be honest. This will do fine in my Crew Cab though...

Rene
 
100.78:1 crawl ratio, 32 spline throughout, triple stick, 1410 yokes, smooth shifting with a .73:1 OD.

I put a whopping 500 miles on this combo, never wheeled it, then parted out the K5. :doah:

Had the good sense to keep this stuff though. ;)

It is heavy, and quite long though. If I was still building a K5 I'd go Stak, or Atlas to be honest. This will do fine in my Crew Cab though...

Rene
how much longer do you think that is than a 700r4/208. the 208 slip yoke adds like 9 or 10 completely unneeded inches i would imagine the lengths would be pretty close
 
almost a foot longer I replced that same combo. I got zero miles on mine before I pulled it back out and sold the truck lol
 
100.78:1 crawl ratio, 32 spline throughout, triple stick, 1410 yokes, smooth shifting with a .73:1 OD.

I put a whopping 500 miles on this combo, never wheeled it, then parted out the K5. :doah:

Had the good sense to keep this stuff though. ;)

It is heavy, and quite long though. If I was still building a K5 I'd go Stak, or Atlas to be honest. This will do fine in my Crew Cab though...

Rene


I'm seriously thinking about selling my doubler and going with a Stak as well and bolting a modded out 4BT in front of it instead of the 6.5
 
If you rockcrawl,hands down the doubled 203/205.Or even if you do alot of trails.If not still the BOMBPROOF 205.
 
how much longer do you think that is than a 700r4/208. the 208 slip yoke adds like 9 or 10 completely unneeded inches i would imagine the lengths would be pretty close

That combo is 48" from the face of the bellhousing to the center of the rear U-joint cups...

Rene
 
I'll go out on a limb and say I think the best combo would be a NWF Blackbox/Klune-V and fixed yoke 205. Shorter and lighter than a 203/205 with a lower low/low and four different selectable ratios and cheaper than a 4sp Atlas or Stak.

I'd give all four pinkies for a NV4500/Klune-V/205. :D

For the best all around stock t-case, I'd say a 241 with SYE (which makes it not stock :doah: )
 
I'll go out on a limb and say I think the best combo would be a NWF Blackbox/Klune-V and fixed yoke 205. Shorter and lighter than a 203/205 with a lower low/low and four different selectable ratios and cheaper than a 4sp Atlas or Stak.

its better but its totally not worth the money when you can somewhat get the same all around thing for half the price if you go doubler
 
all said and done my doublers ran me about 1800 . would have been more if I would have had to buy the cases and trans . for another 1000 I could have had less weight , better floorpan clearance, less crossmember issues, longer driveshaft in rear, simpler shift setups, and more "clocking options"
 

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