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best traction aid for dd snow use?

shady

shady

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I've been compiling a parts list for my 88 burb(factory 10B's). I need to do a gear swap due to the 33" tires(and 34" in future). When I do them I was planning on doing some sort of posi/locker in both ends. My question is which style is best for street driven snow use. I"ve heard full locked can cause issues with trying to turn on slick snow so I thought of the true trac or even a clutch style:dunno:. Its a very lightly wheeled rig so I can leave one diff open if that would be better, and if so which one. Any info would be greatly appreciated:D

Also I've been leaning towards 4.10's but using the online calc's I may do 4.56's. Anybody with the same 33-35" tire and 4.10-4.56 gear combos, I'd like to hear your own personal expieriences. does it lag on hills? hows it do at 70 on the interstate? ETC.
 
I have driven a whole lotta of locked ( mostly detroits) rigs on icy roads, I see no problems with it as long as everyone driving understands the rig.

My BIL spun off the road in the first 50 feet in my blazer came back and said something was broken :haha::haha:. I said nope you just don't know how to drive.

You are leaving the 10 bolts in there right? Consider a true trac.

In the rear because you are in rear wheel drive all the time.
 
Full locker will put you in a ditch, if given the chance...

I'd say a posi unit of some kind.
The Posi in our Tundra is awesome in the snow! :waytogo:
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
Full locker will put you in a ditch, if given the chance...
Click to expand...

Don't give it the chance.

I have daily drove in the winter a sami with a lock rite in the back ( well 3 samis with lock rites) all with crappy winter tires, usually swampers. My blazer with a detroit over about 13 years never had an issue with having a rear automatic locker. It just takes a bit of different driving. If your not willing or simply can't adjust your driving style yes it will kill a bus load of nuns fo sho.

I actually think on pure ice roads like on an interstate ( not around town where you stop and start) an open diff is the best.

Rick if you want a locker get one, it will take a couple trips to figure it out but is so very easy to figure out. I have driven plenty of icy roads with a locker. Its no big deal.
 
I have driven a Lock Rite and a Detroit on snow and ice. I prefer them to open, because I can get going. You do have to know how to drive it, but it isn't difficult.

Martin
 
Eric, are you running a locker in the front? That is usually when things get squirrelly. I have run some kind of traction improver in the rear of almost every vehicle I owned, and it does take a small amount of learning.

But, the only one I ever ran with a front posi was my old Ford. It had a clutch-type in the front, and when I was running with the front hubs turned, I could tell the difference, and did not like it too much.
I expect a true locker in front would be............interesting on the highway.
 
Fordum said:
Eric, are you running a locker in the front? That is usually when things get squirrelly. I have run some kind of traction improver in the rear of almost every vehicle I owned, and it does take a small amount of learning.

But, the only one I ever ran with a front posi was my old Ford. It had a clutch-type in the front, and when I was running with the front hubs turned, I could tell the difference, and did not like it too much.
I expect a true locker in front would be............interesting on the highway.
Click to expand...

The front locker takes some more getting used to but can be driven on icy roads very carefully. I had front lockers in all those rigs but hubs unlocked no biggie. I have driven em hubs locked and engaged in 4wd high. Those were on terrible roads and the visibility was low enough you don't want to stop for fear of being plowed into by something.

With the rear locker I rarely needed 4wd so it wasn't to much of an issue.

I think a good set of studded tires would allow you to do more on icy roads than a locker though.

But if I were Rick and was getting into the diffs anyway I would put something in there, just can't leave well enough alone :D
 
I was curious. Naturally once you unlock the hubs, the front locker problem pretty much goes away......
My experience is fairly limited. Most of the time if the front hubs are locked, I'm in 4wd, and moving fairly slowly.
Once I'm on good ground, I drop out of 4wd and unlock my hubs. Most of my experience with locked hubs and front positrack was on dirt roads after I had just gotten out of a bog.
I would come out of the swamp, kick the 205 into 2wd, and take off. I could definitely tell a difference going around corners on dirt.
If I was not going into mud again soon, I would get out and unlock the hubs. And I never ran on pavement with them locked unless I just forgot.

Of course, you have a different perspective, since the only time I have to worry the highway being slick, is when it first starts raining, or its so hot that the asphalt is starting to melt.........
 
Rick I vote Detroit in the back and truetrac in the front. On snow the truetrac is going to spin both in the back anyway, you might as well have the locker. Or if you don't plan to use 4WD on the road in the winter then go detroit front too, just keep the hubs unlocked.

One time I put my truck in front wheel drive to test the detroit in the front after I put it in, it was very unpredictable. I was constantly correcting/fighting the thing to keep it going straight on the pavement. The back on the otherhand, I have driven the detroit in the snow and I like it. Will the backend slide out, yes, but it's very predictable so it doesn't matter, and you can't beat the traction.
 
I absolutely hate having an open rear diff in the snow. For a light trail duty truck a limited slip (clutch type or true trac) will work great. Even a detroit would be fine if you wanted the full on locker. Leave the front open.

My K5 and my last truck are/were locked front and rear. I have driven them in the snow without issue. Just takes a bit of knowledge and caution. Certainly not throwing you into a ditch for no reason.

About the gears... with a Burb and 35s you want at least 4.56s. I get by with 4.10s and 35s but I have a light K5 (no interior except seats), I live at sea level, and no real hills like you guys have out west.
 
i have drivin with both in the same truck only change was gov lock to detroit in 14ff rear. the detroit lasted 1 season for me as yes it worked and would work but every time there was more than 3-4 inches of snow it had to be in 4wd to go in a stright line even light throttle. this was with 38 inch tsl swampers.

for dd use and if you know its in there and if 14ff i like good working gov lock. also works good on trail use if you know how to use it correctly .

for best of both coin up and go selectable if you ask me. open then locked would be my option.

this is why my off road project has 2 arb air lockers as i am in the north east with snow in the winter time.

and watch your self with locked front end. real fun in the snow when turning and also hard on 1/2 and 3/4 ton axles guts like shafts and joints.
 
I've driven a few RWD cars with posi's in them in the winter so that I'm good on. It seems like the true trac isnt much more $$ than a lunchbox locker so thats the way I'll go in the rear. As for front,, Its gonna be open judging from the replies here. I may not even have to use 4x4 much with the rear TT. Plus I'm planning to move to kentucky or tennessee in 2-4 years so I wont NEED the 4x4 for snow much then anyway.

Thanks for the replies:waytogo: Helped alot.

As for the gear issue I keep talking myself into the 4.56's (and may have found a set). The 4.10's would probably be ok if I kept the 33's. But I would like to move up to 305/70/17 NITTO terra grapplers(34") when these tires wear out. Or a set of 35" mickeys like the ones I got:dunno:
 
if over drive tranny go deep gears thay like it better. and sbc like the 1800-2300 range a lot for good power and crusing in my opinion. and you want a little more rpm for bigger fatter tires trust me.
 
yeah, 350/700r4/ combo. 4.56's should keep me at 2100 with the 33's. 1990-2000 with 35's I think. Been a while since I did the calc
 
search a bit most guys run deep if overdrive is in there. good luck.

fyi if me tho and 6 lug only skip the tiny problem matic 10 bolt and go 14 semi float from 88-up 4wd truck . better axle and options.

hell my little 5 lug 10 bolt in my 2wd build is going bye bye worn the hell out and junk. so for about the same up front money i got a :doah: ford 9" :haha: to swap in it. a whole lot better axle for these needs. and 3.50 gear perfect for my needs. :thumb:
 
In my experience a locker won't do you much good on the roads in icy conditions or hard pack.

A locker is great for giving you extra push to get you going but that usually isn't a problem here in Iowa. Roads get scraped pretty good, even if they aren't you just have to be gentle with the throttle till ya get going. That same locker might just screw you when you're headed down the highway at any sort of speed.

Selectable Locker if you're worried about it. Always the best of both worlds.
 
For your application I would go with 4.56 gears and keep the front open. My truck has a power-loc front and detroit rear and likes to go straight in the corners when in 4wd. I like to run front wheel drive in the snow (205 twin sticked) but put it in 4wd just to take off from stop signs. I put the traction aids in for plowing snow.
 
selectables are so friggin $$$$. That would be the chit. cant get myself to go there though. Trying to keep the whole works under 1500
 
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