Best type of "off-the-shelf" lift for 1st gen. blazer

[toomanytoyzz]

I just bought a 1970 Blazer and was wondering what company makes the best lift for the buck. It will be a daily driver/ occassional weekend wheeler so I'm not going the hybrid/super flexy spring route. Looking to spend $600-$1000 for everything. Any info?

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Oh yeah, I'm planning on running 33's on 15x8's. Probably looking for a 2 1/5-3" lift with all springs (no blocks). Will that require steering mods. You'll have to forgive me guys. I've been a toyota wheeler for the last ten years. The words fullsize and V8 are BRAND NEW to me.

 

[Jimmy4matt]

I've never heard anything bad about skyjacker. Spring rates seem like they would be nice. Somewhere between superlift and tuff country.

 

[k5freak44]

check out bds, they make a one of the best springs and have some of the best systems on the market. they can hook you up with a complete spring lift with shocks and steering and i think their kits come with lines too, for about your price range.

not to mention their kits come with a no questions asked warranty and will replace any part that fails.

 

[Triaged]

I like Tough Country stuff (you can get it from www.offroaddesign.com ).

It is about the softist you can get. If you don't want it that soft get their HD springs. They are still softer then many 'soft-ride' springs.

Whatever springs you buy put an extra spring clamp at the front of the driver's side to keep the spring from bending from the push-pull steering. Also if it hasen't been taken off already there is a bracket behind the rear of the front spring eye that you need to remove. Now is also a good time to get greasable bushings and some new shackles (ORD can hook you up there as well). The factory 7/16" shackle bolts are too small and can break.

You also might want to look into adding a swaybar (and some disconnects) from a 73-up blazer to make driving it on the street better if you do go with soft springs. You will need to fab up the frame bracket and swap out the u-bolt plates.

For the rear I like doing a shackle flip. ORD only makes a 4" one for 1st gens but K5's tend to sit low in the rear anyways so doing 2.5" in the front and 4" in the rear might just make it sit level. Most people when they buy springs use 2" higher in the rear then in the front. This is very important it you want to keep the hard top on.

You should not need any steering correction with 2.5" of lift in the front. If you go to 4" of lift a 2.5" pitman arm will best get rid of the bump steer.

The rear wheels sit a bit to far forward in the wheel wells from the factory. Drilling an extra hole in the spring plates 1" farther forward from the factory one and knotching the u-bolt plate will help center it. If you don't do this 33's will rub on the front of the wheel well even with 4" of lift (at least it did on mine).

After you have bought everything else get the best shocks you have $$$ for. They should work fine in the factory mounts for what you will be doing.

 

[beastofablaze]

I have a 6" superlift with 2 inch blocks (i think) and its stiff as hell but i like it. dual shocks on all four with dual steering stabilizers and it comes with the poor man antiwrap system(2 shocks in back mounted horizontally) I can't speak for the smaller lifts but the kit came with everything you need to complete the lift besides stuff like brake lines, etc.

I beleive the lift kit was about 1500 but i bought the blazer with the lift.

Nice thing about 35's is you can have a stiff suspension and just air down the tires when your wheelin.... rides like a caddy.

If you want stiff go with superlift.... if you want soft go with tuff country.

 

[Supergas]

I used a complete Tuff Country EZ Ride kit incl: shocks on my 71 Jimmy, & it did real well as a daily driver... 4" in front & 2" in back to get level... all springs with no blocks...

Supergas..

 

[Z3PR]

From everything I've read about off the shelf lifts here on CK5 over the last few years I'd have too go with either BDS or Tuff Country. Opinion on ride quality anf flex favor those two brands. Shackle Flips in the rear are also poppular.

 

[chopfab]

I used 63'' springs off of a 1 ton crew cab 2wheel drive for my rear.I used my rear 52'' springs on the front .I have approximately 4'' lift .It was totally free.I have more flex than just about any lift. I have a smoother ride than just about any lift.It will accomodate 33'' tires.Some of my friends regret buying lift kits when they see mine flex. If I were you I would save my money and do the same...

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I used 63'' springs off of a 1 ton crew cab 2wheel drive for my rear.I used my rear 52'' springs on the front .I have approximately 4'' lift .It was totally free.I have more flex than just about any lift. I have a smoother ride than just about any lift.It will accomodate 33'' tires.Some of my friends regret buying lift kits when they see mine flex. If I were you I would save my money and do the same...

Was it a direct bolt on, or did you have to move the perches? Did you use the ubolts from the crew cab? What shocks are you running? I'm really trying to avoid cutting and rewelding anything on the frame. The truck is really nice.

 

[chopfab]

This is not a direct bolt on your rear spring will be 11'' longer on rear . Rear spring hanger must be changed to compression style (shackle flip) you can buy it or make it ,I made mine ,I make everything I touch.But this can all be bolted on if you like drilling holes.When I posted I did not realize what year you had ,but it is still possible to do this if you have skills,and tools, and want a softer ride than a lift will give you